Oil pan!
- Thread starter 98chubby
- Start date
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So far no luck. Have rotated the motor around in small increments, pausing after about 1/8 turn each time, and tried again to drop the pan. Not going to give up just yet but it sure would be nice if the diffy wasnt there. Not ready yet to tackle that but.....
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
positive you are hitting it? reread the steps above to make sure you did not forget something.
In step #7 above it talks of pulling the thru bolts on the engine mounts, then says 2wd model. I'm working on a 4wd and made the mistake of assuming this was not intended for the 4wd but see now how that still may provide the clearance needed.
I did not look at the instructions in my chilton's for the 2wd, just the 4wd. It mentions moving the diffy in step #7.
I'm not set up for lifting/raising the motor, and will admit I have begun to proceed with "moving" the diff. I have removed the upper bolt and nut that hold the diff to the left frame ( I believe will check and make sure and edit if needed) The 2 bolts with nuts holding the axle tube to the right frame member are begun but will start again in the a.m. It appears that doing this and then rotating forward will give the clearance needed. It can't fall as it is still securely bolted to the frame/arm. It should pivot at the frame/arm bolt. I say it should but will see in the morning.
Your method would be better even for the 4wd models with the correct equipmant I think. rather be working above than below anytime.
Again, thank you for responding. Will update again tomorrow.
I did not look at the instructions in my chilton's for the 2wd, just the 4wd. It mentions moving the diffy in step #7.
I'm not set up for lifting/raising the motor, and will admit I have begun to proceed with "moving" the diff. I have removed the upper bolt and nut that hold the diff to the left frame ( I believe will check and make sure and edit if needed) The 2 bolts with nuts holding the axle tube to the right frame member are begun but will start again in the a.m. It appears that doing this and then rotating forward will give the clearance needed. It can't fall as it is still securely bolted to the frame/arm. It should pivot at the frame/arm bolt. I say it should but will see in the morning.
Your method would be better even for the 4wd models with the correct equipmant I think. rather be working above than below anytime.
Again, thank you for responding. Will update again tomorrow.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
just decided to loo at the service manual again and there is a difference for the 1996 year you know the info was different i found between the 96 and 98. will have to go back and see what parts and layout changed specifically. at any rate it says remove right side two bolts on axle and one left upper bolt and nut. rotate the axle forward with possibly wheels turned to left. nothing about engine mount for 96 instructions tho. if you want email me your email so i can email your email on a spelled out procedure as written in the 1996 service manual. http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/sendmessage.php?do=mailmember&u=8604
was debating doing mine just to make the engine oil residue free. think i will try a snug down first. it is a preform gasket after all.
was debating doing mine just to make the engine oil residue free. think i will try a snug down first. it is a preform gasket after all.
Glad to hear you too see the differance in the steps. I would send you my email but I have not posted enough times to be allowed too. Forum rules require 20 posts before sending of emails to members. Dont want to spam the forum to get there 
But I'm counting and as soon as I can....
I really wish an oil leak was my only issue. I'm actually after what I hope is a failed oil pump. Lost all pressure last week and had it towed home. Again... 2 weeks ago I did a lifter/pushrod/rocker change and nearly ruined my motor. Be carefull on the lash procedure as the book is wrong, or at least the details are lacking and can lead you into trouble.
Soon as the pan is off I'll be replacing the oil pump. Keep thinking I should have been taking more pictures and taking notes for anyone else who may have to do this.
Thanks again for your help. I'll send my email as soon as I hit 20 posts...
But I'm counting and as soon as I can....I really wish an oil leak was my only issue. I'm actually after what I hope is a failed oil pump. Lost all pressure last week and had it towed home. Again... 2 weeks ago I did a lifter/pushrod/rocker change and nearly ruined my motor. Be carefull on the lash procedure as the book is wrong, or at least the details are lacking and can lead you into trouble.
Soon as the pan is off I'll be replacing the oil pump. Keep thinking I should have been taking more pictures and taking notes for anyone else who may have to do this.
Thanks again for your help. I'll send my email as soon as I hit 20 posts...
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
try private messages instead think they only require 5. i was not aware the email one had a limit on it.
Sent you a PM.
Oil pan is off and pump is out. Found a small plastic part in the pan? At first I thought it was the bushing that secures the pump shaft to pump, but it is smaller and black in color. The pump bushing is fine on the old pump. The black part is simular in that it has a round inner hole like the pump bushing, but is smaller and the molded outer diameter is cast with flat areas. I have no clue where this would have come from...?
Nothing really remarkable to note about the old pump. Very simple design and honestly am wondering now if it is my problem. Hate to reassemble before knowing.
Will be starting to do so now and will update again in a bit. I see it should be possible to upload a picture here. Will give that a shot in a few.
Oil pan is off and pump is out. Found a small plastic part in the pan? At first I thought it was the bushing that secures the pump shaft to pump, but it is smaller and black in color. The pump bushing is fine on the old pump. The black part is simular in that it has a round inner hole like the pump bushing, but is smaller and the molded outer diameter is cast with flat areas. I have no clue where this would have come from...?
Nothing really remarkable to note about the old pump. Very simple design and honestly am wondering now if it is my problem. Hate to reassemble before knowing.
Will be starting to do so now and will update again in a bit. I see it should be possible to upload a picture here. Will give that a shot in a few.
this small part is broken into 3 peices made of plastic and starting to wonder if I was as carefull as thought when I had the intake manifold off.
Also found what appears to be a small rock?! and a very small peice of gasket silicone material. In the sludge (not much of that) the solids do contain extremely small metal bits. By small, I mean very small.
I had removed the filter adaptor from the block but not the lines. See that for proper cleaning this will be needed. Figures the tool needed is not on hand. A metric wrench with a pretty slim profile/thickness. There are what appears to be milar/plastic bushings on the oil lines right at the connection point that interfere with a wrench of normal thickness. Kind of look like a quick disconect fitting actually. Simular bushings on the tranny lines where they connect to the tranny.
Ok, time to find a wrench....
Also found what appears to be a small rock?! and a very small peice of gasket silicone material. In the sludge (not much of that) the solids do contain extremely small metal bits. By small, I mean very small.
I had removed the filter adaptor from the block but not the lines. See that for proper cleaning this will be needed. Figures the tool needed is not on hand. A metric wrench with a pretty slim profile/thickness. There are what appears to be milar/plastic bushings on the oil lines right at the connection point that interfere with a wrench of normal thickness. Kind of look like a quick disconect fitting actually. Simular bushings on the tranny lines where they connect to the tranny.
Ok, time to find a wrench....
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A shot of the lines and connectors....The more I look at these connectors the more they look like a disconnet point. More than likely a specialty tool. Kind of to late to call NAPA or the dealership today. I did run to the parts store and picked up what looked like it might work, and the clerk seemed pretty confidant but it does not work. Basicly a split circle disconnect tool for fuel lines and such.
I have taken a couple better pictures but imagine if anyone recognises this part they dont need a better picture
I have plenty of cleaning and prep work I can do for now.
I have taken a couple better pictures but imagine if anyone recognises this part they dont need a better picture
I have plenty of cleaning and prep work I can do for now.
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