Oil/water pump replacement?

[Gilla]

Starting the afm-dod delete. 07 Suburban 183K. Never had a problem untill the lifter died. Do i need to replace the oil pump? if so the melling 295 or 365. does it need HV or is it cheap insurance? same question for the water pump and timing chain. Do i need the timing set or just the cam sprocket and dampner? no problems just 183K on it. I do not have VVT. Can i reuse the timing cover? Also what is the orange connector on the drivers side under the engine to the rear? (orange round rubber thing with 2-3 pins) mine is nasty. Thanks to everyone for the help.

 

[iamdub]

Starting the afm-dod delete. 07 Suburban 183K. Never had a problem untill the lifter died. Do i need to replace the oil pump? if so the melling 295 or 365. does it need HV or is it cheap insurance?

Due to all that's involved to access it, replacing the pump now is certainly cheap insurance.

Supposedly, the AFM engines came from the factory with a high volume pump. So, if your pressures were fine before, then a new stock replacement is all you need. Melling is good stuff (they make or did make the factory pumps). I used the M295 for mine and my pressures are right at those of a new engine under normal driving. They can hit high 70s around redline, though. My mods to the oiling system are ported oil pump, plugged AFM towers and relief valve in oil pan replaced with a plug.

same question for the water pump and timing chain. Do i need the timing set or just the cam sprocket and dampner?

IMO, I'd replace the water pump since it'll already be off and has that mileage. No sense in having to fill and purge the coolant system twice. A new timing chain is cheap insurance- part #12646386. If you're using a 3-bolt cam, then you'll need the Gen4 3-bolt sprocket, part #12586481. I reused my original crank sprocket/oil pump drive. If you want a new one, it's part #12556582.

Some opt to replace the timing chain tensioner with the "LS2" dampener. I like the tensioner style and kept it. I would like to have gotten a new one, but the engine build time didn't work out so I put the original back in.

no problems just 183K on it. I do not have VVT. Can i reuse the timing cover? Also what is the orange connector on the drivers side under the engine to the rear? (orange round rubber thing with 2-3 pins) mine is nasty. Thanks to everyone for the help.

You can and need to keep your stock timing cover since the cam position sensor is built into it. Don't forget to install a new crank seal.

Can you post or find a pic of the connector in question? Based on your description, it sounds like the block heater. Follow the wire and see if you end up at a standard three-prong 110VAC plug:

 

[Gilla]

Thank you for the reply. Yes that is the plug. I'm 89 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Never used one. I have a mild cam and better springs thinking about getting new rockers. ( by the time I do the trunnions I could buy another set) recommendations?? Also going with shorty headers and finish it with a Black bear tune.

 

[iamdub]

Thank you for the reply. Yes that is the plug. I'm 89 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Never used one.

I've never bothered to measure before, but I just did. I'm 72 miles from the Gulf, flying straight south. I forget block heaters exist but took a lucky guess and Googled it based on your description.

I have a mild cam and better springs thinking about getting new rockers. ( by the time I do the trunnions I could buy another set) recommendations??

Funny you should ask. I very recently dove into the stock-vs.-upgraded rockers and trunnions conundrum. My conclusion was that new OEM rockers would be more than fine. The cam and springs I have and the RPM I'm turning is very comparable to that of a stock LS6. If I were to get upgraded trunnions, it would be the Max Effort kit from RPMSpeed. I got 16 new OEM rockers for about $10 each off eBay. My ventures in this start around page 121-122 in my build thread.

Also going with shorty headers and finish it with a Black bear tune.

I wouldn't bother with shorties unless you already have them and are more into the appearance. I would strongly advise good ceramic coating. Otherwise, the extra radiated heat could negate any possible gains as well as rot your wire loom faster.

Black Bear tune is a good choice.

 

[Gilla]

Is there an upgrade for the metal cylinder spark plug thingy? really hate them. PITA each one. tore up 2 getting them out. I am installing double springs and 213-222 LSA 115. I thought i read that shorties would help the airflow a bit better. NO? better than stock ? long tube ? about the heat, what if i wrapped them? Is ceramic coating already on the headers? Not into looks, function is important.

 

[swathdiver]

Is there an upgrade for the metal cylinder spark plug thingy? really hate them. PITA each one. tore up 2 getting them out. I am installing double springs and 213-222 LSA 115. I thought i read that shorties would help the airflow a bit better. NO? better than stock ? long tube ? about the heat, what if i wrapped them? Is ceramic coating already on the headers? Not into looks, function is important.

That's a big cam for a 5.3 if it is. Unless it is a Truck Norris, that strange beast works with those numbers.

As for the oil pump, run the M295 is you have an iron block, run the M365 if you have an aluminum block. No need for extra volume or pressure.

 

[iamdub]

Is there an upgrade for the metal cylinder spark plug thingy? really hate them. PITA each one. tore up 2 getting them out. I am installing double springs and 213-222 LSA 115. I thought i read that shorties would help the airflow a bit better. NO? better than stock ? long tube ? about the heat, what if i wrapped them? Is ceramic coating already on the headers? Not into looks, function is important.

What issues are you having with the heat shields on the spark plug boots? Are you twisting the boot to crack it loose before pulling them?

Shorties aren't worthless. They just don't yield enough gains to be worth the cost when long tubes can be had for about the same amount or a little more. If you need to keep cats, then the shorties are more valuable. If you do get any, aim for the JBAs. Wrapping is unquestionably more effective at heat and sound retention. But, some say the extra heat retained accelerates the fatiguing of the metal. They also say that the wrap can hold moisture against the header and rot it out (if mild steel or low grade stainless). You'd think that getting ceramic coated headers then wrapping them would solve all. But, some say the heat trapped against the coating will damage the coating and make it crack.

My personal experience is with headers that are coated multiple times inside and outside and made of 14 gauge as opposed to the more common 16 gauge. I never measured the actual temps before, with the stock exhaust. But, I don't feel my headers radiate any appreciable greater amount of heat into the bay.

 

[Gilla]

I purchased the cam from geotrash on this forum. He game me a good don am! cam, double springs, valve stem seals and moly pushrods. Really nice guy! The cam is from Vinci. I tried turning the rubber boots every which way. Darn things were so hard to get off. Couldn't get the rubber separated it all came as one. At least it came off. If it's really helps I'll put them back. Just wondered if there was something better. I live in Alabama so no car inspection for me. Since I'll be getting a tune would it be better to eliminate the cats altogether? I can understand the moisture thing but a few moments after startup would dry it out. Going to research that topic.

 

[Geotrash]

I purchased the cam from geotrash on this forum. He game me a good don am! cam, double springs, valve stem seals and moly pushrods. Really nice guy! The cam is from Vinci. I tried turning the rubber boots every which way. Darn things were so hard to get off. Couldn't get the rubber separated it all came as one. At least it came off. If it's really helps I'll put them back. Just wondered if there was something better. I live in Alabama so no car inspection for me. Since I'll be getting a tune would it be better to eliminate the cats altogether? I can understand the moisture thing but a few moments after startup would dry it out. Going to research that topic.

Yes, this is the cam that Vinci sent me as a warranty replacement for the one that failed when the lifter trays failed and the twisting lifters chewed up the original. It's actually designed for the 5.3 and I loved its characteristics in the 6.2 for the few miles I was able to run it.

 

[Gilla]

From all the reading and comparison shopping I have done. I am STOKED about getting this thing up and running!! My wife is pretty happy about getting more power. She misses her V8 stick shift Firebird.