OR VietVet Is Still Throwing $$$ at 2005 Z71

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OR VietVet

OR VietVet

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Ok, more talk with my friend. He is aware that the engine is stock and I have a Corvette Servo. He also knows that I am looking for the same feel/performance that I had with my 02 with the 3.73 gears instead of the 3.42 gears I have now. I don't want to set the world on fire but I do want to feel the performance snap when I want to. My friend said that during a tune he can change the trans shift points and simple things like change the idle......basics that will have little to do with the performance feel, except for the trans shift points. He also said that to go further means. of course, ignition and fuel changes. Since I am doing nothing to the stock engine and if I don't want him to try and squeeze the fuel and ignition for all they are worth then may want to wait till I would do gears but if I want to spend some money now we can change/adjust as we see fit. He would love for me to do the gears, since he thinks he will own this rig some day.

I am not looking for that "feel" all the time, just when I mash pedal and had that feel with the 3.73 gears. Hopefully someone here gets what I am trying to say.

Can someone list what BBP does on a basic tune and what the price jumps are for each added step? Or is that at a web site? Looking now.....

Ok, I see what they list and the pricing. Decisions.........
 

Joseph Garcia

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If you have not already done so, I suggest that you call BBP and have a conversation regarding exactly what you want out of a tune, and let them tell you what they can and cannot do to meet your want.
 
OP
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Ok, after finishing the work on my rig last night, I took for a quick road test and loved it but did not really drive it hard. Still at shop today and is now shuttled over to best alignment shop in town, so I am told. My friend will pick up and then I will come see him and we will be going for a long road test.

He said something to me that was surprising when I talked to my friend yesterday. He noticed how quiet it is inside that rig of mine. No rattles, squeaks, shudders......nothing.

He put a bug in my ear and mentioned sound deadening material that can be added to the inside of the door panels and the rear panel. A friend of his did that to his Suburban and said it is like riding in a $300k Mercedes and hearing nothing except what you want to. Has anyone here done anything like that and have input?
 
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915_Tahoe

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5R221385= Last 8 of VIN.

Hopefully @915_Tahoe can help me. I want to get the right radiator but my two GM choices at RA have exactly the same measurements and NONE of the listed RPO codes with the two radiators show on my RPO codes list on my rig. These are the two choices I have:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1399643&cc=1431156&jsn=1693 or this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1399527&cc=1431156&jsn=1694


Could you also supply the part number for the starter?
So by vin# it shows me 2 radiators, same size but different codes. I think these codes are referring to a labeled code on the radiator. I do see some engineering notes for one of the radiators, I'll put it under the gm#.

Gm#19256745
No engineering notes for this part

Gm#22840117
(Due to design change this radiator no longer uses or needs a drain plug)
 
OP
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OR VietVet

OR VietVet

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So by vin# it shows me 2 radiators, same size but different codes. I think these codes are referring to a labeled code on the radiator. I do see some engineering notes for one of the radiators, I'll put it under the gm#.

Gm#19256745
No engineering notes for this part

Gm#22840117
(Due to design change this radiator no longer uses or needs a drain plug)

Great, thanks. Did you see what starter it takes yet? Thanks again.
 

Bill 1960

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Ok, after finishing the work on my rig last night, I took for a quick road test and loved it but did not really drive it hard. Still at shop today and is now shuttled over to best alignment shop in town, so I am told. My friend will pick up and then I will come see him and we will be going for a long road test.

He said something to me that was surprising when I talked to my friend yesterday. He noticed how quiet it is inside that rig of mine. No rattles, squeaks, shudders......nothing.

He put a bug in my ear and mentioned sound deadening material that can be added to the inside of the door panels and the rear panel. A friend of his did that to his Suburban and said it is like riding in a $300k Mercedes and hearing nothing except what you want to. Has anyone here done anything like that and have input?

I have been placing Dynamat in my doors as I get into them for other reasons. At this point I’ve done them all but the front passenger side. Does it transform a low level trim like mine to luxury car quiet? No. But it DOES make a discernible difference in road noise. At this point the level of noise from tires, traffic, and mechanical noise is noticeably less, and comparable to my 2019 truck with lots of carpet and insulation. What it doesn’t help is wind noise, which is the most significant remaining sound.

Later, when I remove the interior to put down a new vinyl floor, I’ll put some below that too, and probably in the rear. Maybe the roof if I ever take the headliner out for any reason.

I watched a lot of videos and product demos and became convinced that the extensive jobs you see where they cut templates and try to seamlessly cover every square inch are way past the point of diminishing returns. If you add damping material to about a third of a given panel the resonance is severely diminished. So I’ve just put it piecemeal onto the accessible portions of the door skins. I’m quite happy with the results.

Buy a few of those door panel fastener pins. Vehicles this age some will snap on disassembly. I have found the generic stuff on Amazon to not be made to spec so I’ve been buying the OEM pins. The price for those is stupidly high though. But it’s better than having the door panel pop loose when it’s closed.
 

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