Overdrive pulley or 200+ amp alt.?

[txsmainevent]

Just finished the install, what a pain in the ass 0 gauge is. 2nd time runnin that shit and i hate it! but when idling at pretty much full blast my volt meter drops from like 14 to 13 at the most. when driving it stays at 14v. Seein as how its only during idling at red lights or somethin should i just replace the stock pulley wit the overdrive pulley for those idling times? or should i just replace the alt?

 

[droppedHoe]

been away from the forum for a few weeks. been stupid busy and trying to buy a house but get a hi amp alt and run more than 1 run of 0 gauge(positive and negative)... i know you hate it.. but 2-3 runs and a 250amp alt... plenty of power!
or if you have extra money get a dc power alt with a MLA 15.4v module... you shouldnt ever have a voltage drop under 14 unless your running 5000+rms

you did the full big 3 with 0 gauge right?
what kinda batteries are you running?

 

[txsmainevent]

ok im a idiot. typed that wrong. it doesnt go below 14v's. usually when cruising it will stay up there in the 15-16v's. thinkin about just runnin a higher amp alt, something like 200amps? Id like to add headrest tvs so probably be the best thing. havent done the big 3 yet. just finished the install today. plan on doin it tho real soon in the next week. one is some new brand like the kinetik hc600 and the underhood one is a gold duralast. not really satisfied wit how the amp rack turned out. only gutted the rear part of the truck and shoulda gutted the front also. plan on re-doin it all soon.

 

[thehoe92]

MLA won't do anything about the alternator.. it would be great IF you had the alt to support it
I've got a DC Power 270sp with the overdrive pulley that Rob threw in for free and I don't drop below 14v at a red light full tilt with 1 battery in the back and a PowerBass 4k with my 14.8v MLA
cruisin it stays right around 14.4v

I would say invest in a better alt
you wouldn't even have to put an overdrive pulley on it because it will already be doing more amperage at idle than your stock alts max output

 

[droppedHoe]

hit up powerbastards... 250amp alts for $300
do your big 3 and the alt and you wont have any voltage issues.. you dont now but you'll have plenty extra.
my truck stays around 14.8 to 15.2 volts lately...it wont once i drop in a Stesom 5K2D with my 2 lvl4XL 15s
but maybe it will if i can get 2 hc1800s or better in the back just on the amp.

stereo is on hold as of today cuz i just put a down payment on a new crib. my first house, no more apartment living!!!

---------- Post added at 10:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------

what 6 15s did you put in that box kasey?
i need me a serious box built. i was thinking about stepping up to lvl 5 15s or 18s but i've only had a lil time to even play with the lvl 4xl's...
i plan to have Mike/AMI Creations do my box since he's local and seems to do great work

 

[TnTahoe]

any pics

 

[NoPh33rRaCiNg]

Have been hearing poor reviews on powerbastards, on SMD, the irragi owner clamped one and they got one and it was rated 220max/120 idle, it actually did 154 max/105 idle.

I'd stay with either mechman or dc power

I have a powermaster beefed up by mechman myself

 

[Tahoejoe]

If you buy the dual ALT kit from DC you will no longer have an issue with supplemental power to your amps or any additional batteries, equipment etc you add in the future. You can add your stock alt with the new Alt for not much additional money. Make the current stock alt the slave alt.
However that may not be your issue. New battery for rear power assistance is always a good idea if you like to have the amps full tilt at idle, but many people end up OVER building their electrical when it isn't needed. (Lots of cash in electrical) If you have an eye on saving cash on these big money upgrades then look at current need.
Take all audio equipment or stop and go driving out of the equation. Standard DC current is 100% about current load and additional demand on your electrical. Depending on what current load you have in the rear you may not need more than 1 run unless your planning on building a 300 + amp demand set up. Look at the fusing on your amps and what impedance you’re running to take into consideration your amperage needs of your charging system. If you bought quality 0 gauge wire your max current flow should be steady at approx 250amps maybe 300amps on burst demand. If your amps and other electrical in the rear doesn’t exceed that number then no additional runs are necessary. If this is the case then great all you need to worry about is supplemental power supplies to protect your equipment from low voltage burns.
I have no idea what amps your running at what impedance but if it is somewhat basic you would be fine with 1 additional battery in the rear. I seen Kinetik mentioned above that that is a great choice. What you want is sealed with good power bursts so when you’re at the stop light the rear battery will be able to supply the burst as needed while you sit at 1k rpm. (HC1800 or HC2000)
Dual Alt hi-output/stock with 1 additional battery and you will be MORE than fine for the long haul at 300amps or less. The dual alt kit was my best purchase to date. Have to agree with the above comment recommending DC Power. They will give you what they SAY they are giving you for power with A+++ customer support.

 

[blueflamed03]

what's the lowest voltage reading are you getting, at idle, at the battery when your hammering it?

 

[txsmainevent]

right above 14v's at idle at about 30-33 where max is 40. kept hearin a nasty clackin from one of my subs, found out the glue had went bad and started seperating. talked to kicker and they will send me a brand new one for 179 shipped..... runnin one sub right now till i get the new one in......i honestly dont see a need for bigger than maybe a 200amp alt. anybody have hell runnin 0 gauge to a underseat amp rack???? i had hell and plan on rebuilding and actually guttin the whole truck....