Overloaded Yukon - now getting service stabilitrac and traction control, and ABS light

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Doubeleive

Wes
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Sorry for the long wait, I visually inspected everything I could but it all looked okay.

I ordered a BlueDrive ODB2 Reader and pulled a:
C0035 CODE DEFINITION:
• LF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction

LF looked okay but I’ll be able to look at it better at home. Investigation continues.
I would check that left wheel hub, jack up the wheel so it is off the ground then try and wiggle it at 12 & 6, there should be no play, there will be some at 9 & 3 because of the steering, you can also spin the wheel and listen for any noises.
 

Big Mama

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That would explain the lights it may just be loose but if not no big deal to replace
 

swathdiver

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Sorry for the long wait, I visually inspected everything I could but it all looked okay.

I ordered a BlueDrive ODB2 Reader and pulled a:
C0035 CODE DEFINITION:
• LF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction

LF looked okay but I’ll be able to look at it better at home. Investigation continues.

Was there a Symptom Number behind the code? For example, C0035 00 or C0035 5A?

This will more specifically explain the problem. It boils down to this, you have a loose or broken connection, bad wiring or a bad sensor in the hub. If the latter, you have to change out the entire hub and most of us use Timken as they are OE supplier. I've bought Chicom hubs that mechanically were fine but did not work with vehicle's ABS so consider that.

Unplug the connector, blow out the dirt, check the wiring and if all looks ok, time for a hub. If you want to do it yourself, we'll give you the torque specs and tell you what tools you'll need and such.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
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Was there a Symptom Number behind the code? For example, C0035 00 or C0035 5A?

This will more specifically explain the problem. It boils down to this, you have a loose or broken connection, bad wiring or a bad sensor in the hub. If the latter, you have to change out the entire hub and most of us use Timken as they are OE supplier. I've bought Chicom hubs that mechanically were fine but did not work with vehicle's ABS so consider that.

Unplug the connector, blow out the dirt, check the wiring and if all looks ok, time for a hub. If you want to do it yourself, we'll give you the torque specs and tell you what tools you'll need and such.
I thought the sensors can be replaced by themselves? I know you can buy them separately.
 

Big Mama

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James, can you explain the symptom number thing? I don’t have a Tech2 but my reader goes pretty deep. Will the code actually look like you stated p0455 S5 for example? I made that one up but you get the idea.
 

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