P0335 (crank pos sensor) issue

[ls1frc]

I think you’re onto something

The truck just left me stranded. Completely dead would not turn over. My noco jumper got it started and I made it five miles before it died again. I got all sorts of codes like camshaft position sensor etc. so I don’t think this has any relation to any sensor

I went home, got the other battery, swapped it in and the truck started right up. I think when I bend the cable back to put the battery in something must be temporarily reconnecting. I have two out of the three red cables that go onto the battery. The one to the starter and the one to the alternator. I’m going to replace the one to the alternator now since I don’t have time to pull the header to get to the starter

 

[j91z28d1]

it's worth changing them all, but if you have to do just one and can get to it. I'd change the ground cable.


also just as a FYI, the terminals in the battery posts should be tight. like can't twist them at all with 2 hands tight. loose terminals are a issue that pop up here from time to time. guys just done realize how tight they need to be unless you fight with on the daily.

 

[ls1frc]

I did the ground cable yesterday did not resolve it

I’ll crank down on them after I replace the red ones

 

[petethepug]

As a baseline replace both the +\~ cables as they corrode internally causing random DTC. Also pull & replace the carbon canister under the truck if not done yet to verify no carbon pellets are in the fuel system. Problems occurring when the tank is less than 1/2 full could point to fuelling issues.

Glad to hear you’ve had a few successful full pulls on the new motor though. You’re close.

 

[Geotrash]

I'll add my +1 to the chorus saying it's a battery connectivity issue. When the GMC dealer did my airbag recall last year, they forgot to tighten down the terminals on the battery. The engine quit and everything went dark just as I was pulling out into traffic. I drifted back into the road I was pulling out of, grabbed a 10mm wrench from my tool bag and snugged them up. No problems since, but the service manager got an earful.

Long story short, a bad or loose battery cable on either side will cause the engine to quit.

 

[ls1frc]

Okay I am going out to the truck to replace two of the three red cables. The third cable is the one that runs along the back of the engine bay and into the PCM. That I do not have a replacement for yet

I am thinking all this isn't really related to the crank pos sensor since I got different codes now. I may replace it anyway since getting there is annoying since I have to drop the header and the starter.

 

[ls1frc]

Found an issue not sure if it’s THE issue. But the wire to the starter was loose. And what I thought was a lock washer appears to just be a broken washer.

 

[ls1frc]

Anyone know if I can use any old washer or do I need the gm part?

I haven't seen any GM parts that match this, seems to just come with a new starter. I am just not sure if I can use any old washer or it has to be something specific.

I'll hit up napa tomorrow and see

 

[ls1frc]

I am thinking this has to be my issue...

I did throw in the new crank sensor just because I was down there

 

[Geotrash]

Anyone know if I can use any old washer or do I need the gm part?

I haven't seen any GM parts that match this, seems to just come with a new starter. I am just not sure if I can use any old washer or it has to be something specific.

I'll hit up napa tomorrow and see

It’s probably made of copper. I have a full set of copper washers from horrible freight, so you could swing by there if needed.