Define "better." LOL It's whatever you feel like doing!
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ever since the first time this crap came up for me and trying to troubleshoot it back years ago and having no luck and mechanic saying "can't find it"I did notice my scanner has the EVAP test. I tried to run it but the coolant was too hot it said. Seems like a ton of conditions needed to do it. Maybe I’ll look into it more.
But my car is 9 yrs old maybe it’s better just to replace this crap?
ever since the first time this crap came up for me and trying to troubleshoot it back years ago and having no luck and mechanic saying "can't find it"
I just replace all three parts and be done with it. a person could go get a diagnostic and mechanic can say yes it's this part that will be $250 please
and 3 days later the code is back and now the mechanic wants more money f-that.
this last time with the tech2 I tried to do the "evap test" the problem I ran into was keeping the rpm between 2k-4k and almost getting it and then accidentally go under/over and now it's too hot...... it's like loosing a video game and no more quarters, try again later lol.
30-40 minute job and done.......for another 10 years
**then if the evap canister gets too old the dam pellets come out and get stuck in the lines so that just adds headache to misery
when it passes a smoke test, but is still failing it's gets pretty frustrating. because now you have spent money to "fix" the problem and still have to spend more money to "fix" the problem. especially when you don't have money to just toss around.Agreed. If you can diag it yourself, or just replace the parts and it works, then you're money ahead.
Mine was a bit more difficult but -- after replacing the canister and both valves -- it turned out to be a bad gasket on the fuel pump. I did the purge and seal test (not any "evap test" whatever that is) to verify that there was a leak, and we used a makeshift smoke machine to find it. In my twisted mind I wanted to know for sure what caused it.
the one under the hood is pretty easy, the rest are up under the spare tire area by the gas tank
I would think the canister on a 2015 would still be fine, but no telling I replaced mine on my 2012 already
started getting the tighten gas cap crap and knew then it was time to do it.
it takes time for it set as well when you replace something and clear the code it normally takes about 3 days to see if the code stays away or not.
if you make it past 3 days and no code the chances are good you nipped it.
I would highly recommend oem parts in any case, the aftermarket ones tend to fail in no time at all
those are the parts but those same parts are a lot less on Rockauto, plus you get 5% off with a code that is listed on the forum all the time, which sort of helps with any taxes.Are these the correct parts?
There are 2 vent valves for my truck, which one do I need or I need both?
Evap canister:
2004-2017 GM Vapor Canister 15109431 | TascaParts.com
2004-2017 GM part # 15109431 - Vapor Canisterwww.tascaparts.com
Vapor canister vent valve:
2007-2018 GM Vapor Canister Vent Valve 23481275 | TascaParts.com
2007-2018 GM part # 23481275 - Vapor Canister Vent Valvewww.tascaparts.com
Vapor canister vent valve:
2014-2025 GM Vapor Canister Vent Valve 12630282 | TascaParts.com
2014-2025 GM part # 12630282 - Vapor Canister Vent Valvewww.tascaparts.com
those are the parts but those same parts are a lot less on Rockauto, plus you get 5% off with a code that is listed on the forum all the time, which sort of helps with any taxes.
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