P0455 code troubleshooting

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Doubeleive

Wes
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I did notice my scanner has the EVAP test. I tried to run it but the coolant was too hot it said. Seems like a ton of conditions needed to do it. Maybe I’ll look into it more.

But my car is 9 yrs old maybe it’s better just to replace this crap?
ever since the first time this crap came up for me and trying to troubleshoot it back years ago and having no luck and mechanic saying "can't find it"
I just replace all three parts and be done with it. a person could go get a diagnostic and mechanic can say yes it's this part that will be $250 please
and 3 days later the code is back and now the mechanic wants more money f-that.
this last time with the tech2 I tried to do the "evap test" the problem I ran into was keeping the rpm between 2k-4k and almost getting it and then accidentally go under/over and now it's too hot...... it's like loosing a video game and no more quarters, try again later lol.
30-40 minute job and done.......for another 10 years

**then if the evap canister gets too old the dam pellets come out and get stuck in the lines so that just adds headache to misery

they changed the system I think in 2016? to a capless gas tank, not sure if that is going to make a difference with the evap issue's or not, these 2015's are just getting to that age.

next up will probably be the heater hose t's, the ones on the wifes 2016 are not looking very healthy and the heater hoses like to seep they changed how they are crimped, not as good as the ones on the 900's
 
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Fless

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ever since the first time this crap came up for me and trying to troubleshoot it back years ago and having no luck and mechanic saying "can't find it"
I just replace all three parts and be done with it. a person could go get a diagnostic and mechanic can say yes it's this part that will be $250 please
and 3 days later the code is back and now the mechanic wants more money f-that.
this last time with the tech2 I tried to do the "evap test" the problem I ran into was keeping the rpm between 2k-4k and almost getting it and then accidentally go under/over and now it's too hot...... it's like loosing a video game and no more quarters, try again later lol.
30-40 minute job and done.......for another 10 years

**then if the evap canister gets too old the dam pellets come out and get stuck in the lines so that just adds headache to misery

Agreed. If you can diag it yourself, or just replace the parts and it works, then you're money ahead.

Mine was a bit more difficult but -- after replacing the canister and both valves -- it turned out to be a bad gasket on the fuel pump. I did the purge and seal test (not any "evap test" whatever that is) to verify that there was a leak, and we used a makeshift smoke machine to find it. In my twisted mind I wanted to know for sure what caused it.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Agreed. If you can diag it yourself, or just replace the parts and it works, then you're money ahead.

Mine was a bit more difficult but -- after replacing the canister and both valves -- it turned out to be a bad gasket on the fuel pump. I did the purge and seal test (not any "evap test" whatever that is) to verify that there was a leak, and we used a makeshift smoke machine to find it. In my twisted mind I wanted to know for sure what caused it.
when it passes a smoke test, but is still failing it's gets pretty frustrating. because now you have spent money to "fix" the problem and still have to spend more money to "fix" the problem. especially when you don't have money to just toss around.
had a tire & wheel like that once on my 03, slow leak, take it to the tire shop to fix, can't find a leak. 3 days later tire flat as a pancake, fill it up, 2 days later it's almost flat again, fill it up. "stops leaking" wtf??????? lol only thing I ever figured was maybe it was something in the seam and only leaked with a load on it and whatever it was it fixed it's self
 

NardDog

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i had this happen a fee years ago and wound up replacing all the valves and canister. No problems since but I suppose could have tried to diagnose but i just figured its still cheaper to diy all the parts than to pay a shop to do it.
 
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ReaperHWK

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the one under the hood is pretty easy, the rest are up under the spare tire area by the gas tank
I would think the canister on a 2015 would still be fine, but no telling I replaced mine on my 2012 already
started getting the tighten gas cap crap and knew then it was time to do it.
it takes time for it set as well when you replace something and clear the code it normally takes about 3 days to see if the code stays away or not.
if you make it past 3 days and no code the chances are good you nipped it.
I would highly recommend oem parts in any case, the aftermarket ones tend to fail in no time at all

Are these the correct parts?
There are 2 vent valves for my truck, which one do I need or I need both?


Evap canister:

Vapor canister vent valve:

Vapor canister vent valve:
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Are these the correct parts?
There are 2 vent valves for my truck, which one do I need or I need both?


Evap canister:

Vapor canister vent valve:

Vapor canister vent valve:
those are the parts but those same parts are a lot less on Rockauto, plus you get 5% off with a code that is listed on the forum all the time, which sort of helps with any taxes.
cart1.JPG
 

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