Pete's (Now Nate's) 2003 Denali Budget Build thread

[Sevenevez]

That's the setup I had, just didn't remember where the amp was mounted. That's a great amp, it's running all my speakers except my new sub which is running off a monoblock amp. My hybrid system rocks.

thanks for your replies guys! always helps me.
so, RR, do you think i should just run new wires from the 4 door speakers to the head unit? or start with the factory amp and run from there? whoever had this Denali back in the days had an alarm and a custom setup which is surely my issue because i swear i see splices in almost every harness on this thing.

 

[Rocket Man]

thanks for your replies guys! always helps me.
so, RR, do you think i should just run new wires from the 4 door speakers to the head unit? or start with the factory amp and run from there? whoever had this Denali back in the days had an alarm and a custom setup which is surely my issue because i swear i see splices in almost every harness on this thing.

I'd take a look at the amp first and see what the wiring there looks like. Have you pulled the front door panels and checked the speakers and wiring there also? I'd do those 2 things first; if it's easy to fix the factory setup then I'd do that but if things are hacked up it might be easier to run new wires to the new HU. You need to have all 4 running off the same source in order to control them through the HU.
Edit: there's also the tweeters in the front a- pillars that you want to use ( make sure they're there still) and there's 2 more speakers in the very rear pillars that are pretty worthless so if you have to run new wires I'd leave those disconnected, they're not worth messing with.

 

[Sevenevez]

I'd take a look at the amp first and see what the wiring there looks like. Have you pulled the front door panels and checked the speakers and wiring there also? I'd do those 2 things first; if it's easy to fix the factory setup then I'd do that but if things are hacked up it might be easier to run new wires to the new HU. You need to have all 4 running off the same source in order to control them through the HU.
Edit: there's also the tweeters in the front a- pillars that you want to use ( make sure they're there still) and there's 2 more speakers in the very rear pillars that are pretty worthless so if you have to run new wires I'd leave those disconnected, they're not worth messing with.

thanks man! . i really do appreciate it. and yeah, thats pretty much the thoughts i had. i pulled all the door panels and it looks like the speakers are all still factory and wires factory color wires connected. once i get under the dash tho.. ugh, all types of splices and **** going on. as far as where they go from there.. i havent traced it yet. and those far back rear pillar speakers and the factory sub are actually the only things that DO work. the JVC HU is 22 RMS per/chn. not sure if that is better or worse than the factory amp. i assume i will be running long wires no matter what to cure it all. Just not sure if i should run from fact amp or from speakers to HU. i need to pull that rear left panel and check the fact sub/amp sitch

 

[W8TVI]

i plan on painting it so i have been mocking up paint schemes in photoshop.
this is what i am thinking.
BMW Black on top, GM Bermuda Blue on the bottom. The stripe and wheels stay Pewter Metallic.



realistically it wont be that low. i'm thinking just a 3/4 drop, but you know how that goes

Looking at this photo, I think some nice black projectors would look nice with that paint job.

Perhaps something like this:



I'm thinking about getting a set for my truck, but in chrome.

 

[MadDogDelpho]

I love those U-bar headlights. Wish they made some for the Chevys

 

[Rocket Man]

thanks man! . i really do appreciate it. and yeah, thats pretty much the thoughts i had. i pulled all the door panels and it looks like the speakers are all still factory and wires factory color wires connected. once i get under the dash tho.. ugh, all types of splices and **** going on. as far as where they go from there.. i havent traced it yet. and those far back rear pillar speakers and the factory sub are actually the only things that DO work. the JVC HU is 22 RMS per/chn. not sure if that is better or worse than the factory amp. i assume i will be running long wires no matter what to cure it all. Just not sure if i should run from fact amp or from speakers to HU. i need to pull that rear left panel and check the fact sub/amp sitch

If your running new wires I'd go to the HU because it would be hard to figure out the wiring on that amp unless you can find a wiring diagram. (That is, unless the colors at the speakers correspond with the same colors at the amp.) Then disconnect the small speakers way in the back and just run the sub off the factory amp and see how it sounds.

 

[W8TVI]

My Yukon XL is a 2000 and had the factory amp (no Bose) behind the glove box. I put a Pioneer HU in and then did the factory amp bypass so it powers all 4 door speakers with the HU. I can't go quite as loud as before (still plenty loud enough), but it sounds much cleaner at higher volumes into my Alpines in the doors.
I also have a 500w Alpine amp running a pair of 12" Alpine Subs in a ported box.

I'm thinking the 22w RMS should be good into the door speakers.

 

[Sevenevez]

Looking at this photo, I think some nice black projectors would look nice with that paint job.

Perhaps something like this:

View attachment 178170

I'm thinking about getting a set for my truck, but in chrome.

nice. you know, i think that black shells look great on a light painted vehicle. since my goal is a dark paint scheme, i think the contrast of the chrome shells works more in favor. But i like both looks!

If your running new wires I'd go to the HU because it would be hard to figure out the wiring on that amp unless you can find a wiring diagram. (That is, unless the colors at the speakers correspond with the same colors at the amp.) Then disconnect the small speakers way in the back and just run the sub off the factory amp and see how it sounds.

she's already torn apart. i need to tear her more! and trace the start and finish. i know it's hard to believe, but in the 90's i installed motorola car phones, remote starts, sunroofs and custom stereo's and alarms, but that was all hardwiring situations. now the amount of wires and modules is nuts! just sucks i thought this denali was unmolested. but it's okay that she was, every time i grip that steering wheel, i let her know she is in good hands in a literal fashion.

My Yukon XL is a 2000 and had the factory amp (no Bose) behind the glove box. I put a Pioneer HU in and then did the factory amp bypass so it powers all 4 door speakers with the HU. I can't go quite as loud as before (still plenty loud enough), but it sounds much cleaner at higher volumes into my Alpines in the doors.
I also have a 500w Alpine amp running a pair of 12" Alpine Subs in a ported box.

I'm thinking the 22w RMS should be good into the door speakers.

nice man. so you think the factory amp had more juice but the head unit made it cleaner (sounding) ?

 

[W8TVI]

nice man. so you think the factory amp had more juice but the head unit made it cleaner (sounding) ?

Yeah. I had the new HU going into the factory amp, but at the highest volumes it just didn't sound as good.

The factory amp didn't go much louder than the HU does, and I never turned it up because of the inferior sound.

 

[Sevenevez]

i'm just really kind of in love with the offset of these wheels