Please don't laugh... Quick Fix for a Oil Pan / Timing Cover oil leak

[tomloans]

I would have bet money this was going to be a Flexseal commercial.

LOL. I have to make things work. I just don't have the money to purchase new vehicles anymore nor pay someone to fix them.

But yeah my wife and son think I should do commercials. LOL

 

[Jimmyy]

I understand I just upgraded from a 94 B3000 to a 06 Yukon. Both have 200K+ miles.

 

[Walchit]

The oil pan drop on a 4x4 isn't that bad. I'm not a mechanic, by any means, and with the help of a friend we were done in about 8-9 hours. You would think a mechanic would do it for a decent deal. But maybe it's not worth their time.

 

[tomloans]

Well it has been 3000 miles since my fix and it is starting to leak again but very slightly and it appears to be leaking from somewhere else. The starboard side of the engine this time. No puddle forming at all, just a slight build up on the bar underneath and only after a long drive. So still pretty happy about the fix. Not interested in a 9 hour fix. Not worth it all for me and sometimes that still may not fix it. If I knew that procedure was going to solve every single time, I may end up doing it. But this fix is very particular and one idiosyncrasy and it will leak again - especially where the timing cover meets the oil pan. Not even remotely interested in that occurring. Anyways so far so good. Mostly dry as a bone underneath even after a 300 mile drive!

 

[Bill 1960]

I wanted to laugh, just because of the title. But- I have done things sometimes out of expediency or necessity that others might laugh at.

So I’ll go back to my glass house quietly. Thanks for sharing.

 

[JackFox]

the best RTV for EVERYTHING is https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...729Efgttw_gWD2vzn4QaAhfaEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


there is literally nothing better. Screw the red crap. Viscosity of water (hyperbolic)

 

[EddieC]

I had a Jeep Cherokee that had leaky valve covers and at the back of the intake manifold before it had very many miles.
Valve covers had no real gaskets, just rtv. Napa had real gaskets so that was easy enough to take care of the right way.
The back joint of the intake (to the block) was another matter. so I just took fingerfulls of rtv (don't recall the type) and blindly smeared it all over the joint and it performed fine for the remainder of my ownership that was over 40,000 miles.

 

[tomloans]

I had a Jeep Cherokee that had leaky valve covers and at the back of the intake manifold before it had very many miles.
Valve covers had no real gaskets, just rtu. Napa had real gaskets so that was easy enough to take care of the right way.
The back joint of the intake (to the block) was another matter. so I just took fingerfulls of rtv (don't recall the type) and blindly smeared it all over the joint and it performed fine for the remainder of my ownership that was over 40,000 miles.

Yes it works. That rtv is something else. 20k later no leaks. Saved me a whole lot of trouble. The better you prepare the surface the better and longer it last. 40k with a $5 tube of goop is amazing.

 

[OR VietVet]

If I have to use no gasket and just use sealer, it is Permatex "The Right Stuff".

 

[ScottyBoy]

If I have to use no gasket and just use sealer, it is Permatex "The Right Stuff".

I've used ""The Right Stuff" to seal my rear diff a few times. Worked great until I had to service it again a few years later. That stuff was hell to remove and clean off.
I now use a re-usable rear diff gasket called "Lubelocker" that needs NO sealant or adhesive, and installs completely dry. The thing is AMAZING. I've already re-used it at least once. Just clean it off with brake clean, along with all mating surfaces, and reinstall it. They make them for rear diffs and for transmission pan gaskets. When I get around to servicing my transmission again, I plan on buying one for my transmission.