Please Help w/ HID Issue!

[gibbygsxr]

Does the plug still have power at it when the light flickers and goes out? That will tell you if it's the car or the hids.

Sounds like defective equipment. I run race sport 55w hid kit without a relay harness and it's been fine. Might want to try a differant brand.

It's a long shot but the newer dodge vehicles need an anti flicker harness because the vehicle doesn't see the bulb and will kill power to the headlights.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Does the plug still have power at it when the light flickers and goes out? That will tell you if it's the car or the hids.

Sounds like defective equipment. I run race sport 55w hid kit without a relay harness and it's been fine. Might want to try a differant brand.

It's a long shot but the newer dodge vehicles need an anti flicker harness because the vehicle doesn't see the bulb and will kill power to the headlights.

Yes, it has power at both pigtails when the lights are turned on, but the driver's side isn't working. When I turn the headlights on, the passenger side fires up just fine, but the driver's side just flickers on and off and then stays off.

I just find it odd that its a problem with the kit since everything works when swapped from side to side. All ballasts, bulbs, relays, etc. have been tested and shown to work properly. Plus, its the supposed better quality Morimoto kit that was purchased from The Retrofit Source.

 

[BoyWonder41]

I had issues with my halogen/HID conversion on my 2015 Yukon. I used the relay like every one stated and one capacitor on the harness and just one headlight would work. I thought that I narrowed it down to a bad or blown ballast. However, I never heard both ballasts fire up. I eventually hooked each ballast with a capacitor up to a bulb. Everything fired up great. The next day after work I went to start the truck up and the battery was dead and needed a jump!?! I replaced the factory battery with a deep-cycle Odyssey battery and no problems since. ( wanted to do a dual battery set-up eventually anyway)

I believe that the LED running lights along with the ballasts require too much power consumption initially and the ballasts need that reserve power of the capacitors. Not worried about wiring as that's what the factory fuses are for. Hope this helps.

 

[felixgun]

See I thought about the capacitor on each side. Talked to a local guy and he suggested that too. My issue is the one light that flickers even without the relay (only way to get it to work on driver side was to bypass the HD relay) even with the capacitor hooked up on that side still flickered. I then emailed TRS asking them if I needed two capacitors and they replied saying one is sufficient. Hmmm... I've tried doing it on both sides too.

 

[08grey]

You guys are somehow not getting enough amps to fire the ballasts. Here are your only solutions.

Use a regular hid relay harness or make your own.
Wire a capicitor to one end of the relay trigger to stabilize the pulsing voltage then comet the outputs to each ballasts.

Or use a capicitor and really for both sides. This is easier done with wire and terminals than a harness. This will ensure you get full startup voltage and stabilize the current.

 

[Clean07Burb]

You guys are somehow not getting enough amps to fire the ballasts. Here are your only solutions.

Use a regular hid relay harness or make your own.
Wire a capicitor to one end of the relay trigger to stabilize the pulsing voltage then comet the outputs to each ballasts.

Or use a capicitor and really for both sides. This is easier done with wire and terminals than a harness. This will ensure you get full startup voltage and stabilize the current.

What do you mean by a regular HID relay harness? The kit came with a relay harness that included two relays. Are you referring to something different?

 

[08grey]

Yes. Just a simple relay harness. Look in ebay for hid relay harness. You will see one there.

 

[felixgun]

You guys are somehow not getting enough amps to fire the ballasts. Here are your only solutions.

Use a regular hid relay harness or make your own.
Wire a capicitor to one end of the relay trigger to stabilize the pulsing voltage then comet the outputs to each ballasts.

Or use a capicitor and really for both sides. This is easier done with wire and terminals than a harness. This will ensure you get full startup voltage and stabilize the current.

The side that flickers I had a capacitor and relay. And TRS specifically said I only needed that one they supplied. I asked them about having a capacitor on both and they said no. If I knew how to build what you described I'd have already done it but unfortunately my electrical skills suck.

 

[BoyWonder41]

Quick update. I've been running my HID conversion for about a month and no issues. I've never had any "flickering" since adding the capacitors. I've also never really used the slim type ballast. I found that using the larger metal AC ballast have always given me better lasting results. (no matter what brand I use) I'm running an Opt 7 AC 35 watt 6000K ballast setup right now and they have a 2 year warranty. I get a crisp white like with light blue tinge. The cutoff is perfect. I don't know why GMC just didn't install Xenon headlamps as standard for all their trucks now.

 

[08grey]

You can always hit me up and I'll walk you through it.