Please Help w/ HID Issue!

[fireburban]

Good info.

 

[felixgun]

**** TRS and their ****** morimoto branding and their ****** customer service. Emailed them a WEEK ago and no response still. Hopefully I can return this ****** kit and go with Philips HID kit.

 

[01Konvict]

WOW always had great service from them just picked up the phone and called them directly to get what I needed. I have used both Morimoto ballasts and Philips from them. The original Morimoto has held up great after 6+ years of use with no issues. The second Morimoto kit I got was a newer version and the ballasts were crap when cold and replaced them with the new ballast design under the 5 year warranty when only 1-2 years old. The third set of Morimoto have been great so far and fire up even faster than the old versions and only 2-3 months of use. The Philips are great and have used them for 4 years now with no issues. I do like the output of the Minis but they need to be setup correctly for best use. I'm using the FX-Rs now and I really like the light output. I have one projector that is off in it's crisp cutoff but gives a great flicker so it's kinda a trade off. Will tweak it eventually when I want to open the lights back up.

I wish I could help you on the truck but I would trade the harness, ballasts, and bulbs for a new set and see what happens. Have you tried bench testing the system on a power supply to see if you get the same non light fire?

 

[Clean07Burb]

^I've tried everything...just yesterday I ordered a pair of capacitors to add inline and see if they can store enough power to get the driver's side ballast to ignite and stay on. It tries to light up, but won't stay lit. It just fires on and then shuts right back off. The passenger side works perfectly. I'm getting tired of hooking the kit up to try different things, only to unhook it again after it not working.I know these capacitors are supposed to stop issues with flickering on and off, so we'll see in a few days what happens when they get here.

In response to my last post stating I'd try switching the battery out for a new one, I didn't bother. I tested my current battery again and its showing excellent voltage and 726 of its rated 730 cold cranking amps. So, another battery isn't going to do anything for me, unfortunately.

 

[08grey]

If if lights then drops out that's a bad ballast usually. If it quick flickers and drops out a bad bulb.

 

[Clean07Burb]

If if lights then drops out that's a bad ballast usually. If it quick flickers and drops out a bad bulb.

That's what I thought at first, too, but swapping each component from side to side shows all parts are working correctly.

 

[08grey]

Capacitor won't boost voltage. A Relay will.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Capacitor won't boost voltage. A Relay will.

You mean the Jatronix relay or just any relay? I already have the standard dual relay harness that came with the kit and both relays are working properly.

 

[08grey]

A standard relay takes power directly from the battery when latched. This is going to be stronger that conecting at the bulb harness

 

[Clean07Burb]

A standard relay takes power directly from the battery when latched. This is going to be stronger that conecting at the bulb harness

Yes, this is how my harness was pre-wired from TRS. It has a fused hot wire lead that I ran directly to battery. Also ran the grounds from both sides directly to battery. That's why I'm having a hard time believing its a low voltage issue that's causing the one side not to ignite. Battery is good and strong, too. All kit components tested functional. Its really weird. Like its some kind of odd gremlin that's in my truck only. Plenty of other NNBS guys out there with no issues.