Popping from front end

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kwOH

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Yeah I live in Maryland and everything on that truck is rusted underneath so I guess that's a good possibility. Didn't realize how many different things could be causing that pop. This is going to take a while to figure out
You should be able to check with like a pry bar or something if there is any excessive play in the bj’s or tr’s, and the cv’s if the boots are ok, they should be ok, unless theres obvious damage, if its not any of those i would bet on the torsion bar mounts.
 
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02_Tahoe

02_Tahoe

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You should be able to check with like a pry bar or something if there is any excessive play in the bj’s or tr’s, and the cv’s if the boots are ok, they should be ok, unless theres obvious damage, if its not any of those i would bet on the torsion bar mounts.
Tie rods were replaced in august thinking that's what the popping was and it didn't fix it, I've checked bjs with the pry bar and there is no play. I feel it in the steering wheel and if it is the mounts then it makes sense that I feel it in the wheel because it's part of the suspension
 

kwOH

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Tie rods were replaced in august thinking that's what the popping was and it didn't fix it, I've checked bjs with the pry bar and there is no play. I feel it in the steering wheel and if it is the mounts then it makes sense that I feel it in the wheel because it's part of the suspension
I could feel mine in everything, it was a big pop, I could almost time it, knew when it was going to pop based on how sharp I was turning.
 

kwOH

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Ill just go ahead an add how to go about fixing it just in case you decide thats the problem. The mounts themselves shouldn’t be bad, its the rubber bushings on the ends of the crossmember, you’ll have to use a torsion bar tool to take the torsion bars out just like you would if you were replacing the keys, so if you do want to add lift keys now would be the time, but once you have the t-bars out, you have to take the crossmember out, some people take the time to clean it up and paint it while its out to prevent further corrosion, then the rubber bushings have to pressed out like bearings and new ones pressed in.
 
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02_Tahoe

02_Tahoe

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Ill just go ahead an add how to go about fixing it just in case you decide thats the problem. The mounts themselves shouldn’t be bad, its the rubber bushings on the ends of the crossmember, you’ll have to use a torsion bar tool to take the torsion bars out just like you would if you were replacing the keys, so if you do want to add lift keys now would be the time, but once you have the t-bars out, you have to take the crossmember out, some people take the time to clean it up and paint it while its out to prevent further corrosion, then the rubber bushings have to pressed out like bearings and new ones pressed in.
Im already lifted so don't need the keys but it was put on a year ago so should be easy to take them out. Thanks for the info
 

M1Gunner

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Yeah I did lower the keys a little bit because the back settled a bit and the truck was squatting. What would that do though?

What happens is that the rollers inside the CV joint wear a groove where they ride. So when you increase or decrease the angle of the axle, those rollers now roll in a different path. When the rollers new path intersects the groove from the old path, the rollers "pop" as they run across. Which is more prominent when you turn.

If you didn't have this noise before you adjusted your ride height, I would start there.
 
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02_Tahoe

02_Tahoe

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What happens is that the rollers inside the CV joint wear a groove where they ride. So when you increase or decrease the angle of the axle, those rollers now roll in a different path. When the rollers new path intersects the groove from the old path, the rollers "pop" as they run across. Which is more prominent when you turn.

If you didn't have this noise before you adjusted your ride height, I would start there.
That makes a lot of sense, and I don't remember it happening before I lowered it down some. Thanks for the help
 

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