Progression of a well used 2000 Tahoe Z71

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Y2KpewterZ

Y2KpewterZ

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Thanks guys for the kind words.

Last Wednesday i was driving it to class and as I was merging off the interstate it started to vibrate really bad, and continued to make the undiagnosed noise i mentioned in my previous post. I deemed it not safe to drive, and drove my F150 for the time being.
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I did however manage to fix some odds and ends ive been neglecting on the F150; fixed the dash cup holders, fixed the over head console thermometer/compass, clay bared and waxed.. but thats neither here nor there.

It always ran kind of weak, compared to other Vortec trucks ive driven. I just blamed it on 291k miles. The morning i was going to drop it off at the shop it was very humid out. It would crank and crank but no fire. I thought for sure the fuel pump was dying or the crank sensor went bad. My old man said he bets moisture got under the distributor cap. Sure enough. Turns out whoever replaced the cap and rotor broke the pot metal ears off the distributor that hold the cap down, only one screw was holding it on. I cleaned the points off, and used a tiny c-clamp on the broken ear and now it runs stronger then ever.
 
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Y2KpewterZ

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Re did my front bumper. The 3m Paint Defender lasted 6 months. I decided to peel it off, since i scraped a little hole in it putting the bumper back on.. and ever since then water kept seeping underneath the coating. I got tired of looking at it, and peeled it all of. Resprayed and cleared the bumper since a few chips made it past the spray.
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Clear is drying now. Gotta wait to wet sand, polish and buff..and wait for temps to get above 60 to use Paint Defender again.
 
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Y2KpewterZ

Y2KpewterZ

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Finally installed new y pipe and cats. No more exhaust leaks! But now those heat shields are rattling. Y pipe is from Muffer Express. I bought it off craigslist brand new in box for cheap.
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Cant tell if rear main is leaking.. or oil from my leaky drain plug is just being blown all over the pan and bell housing.

And i got the bumper back together.
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Y2KpewterZ

Y2KpewterZ

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Thanks fells. Put almost 600 miles on her today between driving from Richmond, to Nags head, to Hatteras, back to Nags Head, back to Hateras and finally back to Richmond, averaged 20.2 MPG for half of that.
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Y2KpewterZ

Y2KpewterZ

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Full chassis cleaning after the beach.
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And got started on doing my B&M Super Cooler mod. Little set back with the lock rings on the quick connects.. ended up losing one and couldn't get the second one off. I actually did one side with out even removing the lock ring and line, so, as opposed to the "how to" thread on GMT400, I think you can get away with doing this without even fooling with those little bastard lock rings. Your knuckles will appreciate it.
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Y2KpewterZ

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Thanks. More work has been done. Current mileage is at 296k, and shows no signs of stopping anytime soon.

Lets face it, rust never sleeps. Paint was beginning to bubble up again on my doors. I picked up a set of Pewter doors and a factory tan cargo cover for cheap from craigslist.
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Unfortunately the doors I got, the wiring harness was cut all to hell (because unplugging stuff makes sense..) so i had to remove the door harness, from a total of 4 doors, and reinstall my two good ones.
I was also told the paint was in excellent condition...
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After wet sanding; 1500-3000 and hitting it with Meguiars 105 compound..
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Now if only the Pewter was a match...

Next on the list is the roof rack.. on the fence, either remove and plug holes, or Esky/Nali rack... and to de-mold or not to
 
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Y2KpewterZ

Y2KpewterZ

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Threw on some 275/55/20 Nitto Terra Grapplers, a little more aggressive then the Goodyear LS-2's..
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