pulling the motor

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oldsalt

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Yes label and take pictures. I've done this job quite a few times and still always refer back to the photographs I took. Harnesses do pretty much fall in place but figuring out routing wires and vacuum lines can drive you nuts and waste time.

Get a piece of cardboard and put your upper manifold bolts in it in the same position that they came out. While they all will fit some are different lengths. I have seen a long one put in the spot under the fuel line and begin to wear a hole. Not good.

I pull the engine with the manifolds on. Some prefer to take them off in the car.

A/C compressor- Unless you are going to replace it I just unbolt it and pull it up and over and tiewire it to the passenger hood hinge.

Remove the hood.
 

07Burb

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I believe oldsalt has this a time or two :High 5:
 

oldsalt

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Some other things I thought of--

You have to pull the dist. before taking out the engine.

Run a chain between the torsion bars under the transmission to hold it up.

Pay attention to how the upper passenger side engine bolt/stud is assembled. There is a bracket for the wire harness along with 2 ground wires that use the same stud.

Remove your shrouds, radiator, fan, etc so you can stand on the crossmember. Makes it easier to take things off on the back side of the motor.

Pull the knock sensor to drain the water in the bottom of the block. It won't spill all over when you lift the engine out.

It's worth bagging or taping the wire connectors, as well as any open lines,and pressure washing the engine compartment while the engine is out. It only takes about an hour but putting everything back together all cleaned up not only looks good but makes you feel better when things get tedious. If you don't have a pressure washer, some ZEP orange cleaner from home depot and a garden hose will do.

Put the exhaust manifolds on before you put the engine back in. It's just much easier to do on the stand and you may have to use a spreader to get the holes to line up.

Put the engine at TDC before you put it back in the truck. It makes life a lot easier when putting the distributor back in.

Don't forget to put on the reluctor ring before you put on the timing chain cover. Don't ask why I say this.

Even though they say not to, put a little silicone all the way around the pan gasket. Both sides.

Take photos and keep us updated.
 
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yukonfever99

yukonfever99

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no problem oldsalt will take pics and keep posted on everything i get done, i am looking for a 2" crowl hood if anyones got one for sale and is close to wisconsin
 
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yukonfever99

yukonfever99

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got it out, spun a barring the jurnal for 7&8,#7 was shaved down a couple 1000s of a inch so a good cleaning new crank kit and oil pump and shes goin down the road
 

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retorq

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?You spun a main bearing and you are going to throw new parts in without a line bore??
 

07Burb

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:hmm:
 

oldsalt

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I think at this point it's time to either send this motor out for machining and rebuild or swap it out for a new or new rebuilt. You're already over halfway there. You can probably get one for around 1200.
 
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yukonfever99

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its fine i did the same in my old truck samething happened and it went for anothe 40,000 till the tranny took a shit.
 

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