I had my 2000 Yukon 4wd 5.3 V8 inspected today and they told me I need a new idler arm & bracket. The suspension is original and the vehicle has 217,000 miles. I looked up the parts and they don't look that expensive but the repair shop is quoting around $800 for the job and that doesn't include the cost of an alignment. Does anyone have experience with this and can suggest a reasonable ballpark figure for this repair? Thanks.
Question About Idler Arm
- Thread starter azmike
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I would bet that the quote includes an idler arm that is not Genuine GM like this one and that $800 is crazy. They are one part and not parts. Easy to replace if you have any mechanical ability at all. Look at a few you tube videos about this and see. Can rent some tools at parts store if needed. Did the estimate include the inspection? If that idler arm is the only steering linkage part needed at that age and mileage, that is impressive.
drakon543
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unless there is something extra they are doing 800 is pretty high.
THarber
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That's a crazy price. The part can be $35 up to $100 unless they are quoting Kryptonite heavy duty parts. Wild guess but you could replace everything for about $400. If you do it yourself, might as well R/R tie rod ends too.
Agree with @drakon543 and @THarber about the price, as I stated above. I don't agree with the part price of $35 to $100 unless you are just getting as cheap as you can get. The one I supplied the link too is a Genuine GM part, just like the one that lasted soooo long up to now. That is a your cost over $100 at RA and lots of shops will not allow you to supply parts but like I stated as well, it is an easy part to replace. If you do yourself and plan on keeping the rig, get the entire steering linkage set up of tie rods and pitman arm and center link, in case there is some wallowing at the taper points of the center link. You can buy all these parts at RA for less than $800, IMO. Point being, if the idler arm is bad now, the rest are close behind.
Joseph Garcia
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As stated above, if you normally do any wrenching, you can replace that component yourself. Then get an alignment.
You will want whatever shop you choose to inspect that entire front steering and suspension before the idler arm replacement. It would be very rare for just the idler arm to be needed at that mileage. Don't say that to the shop but can share that the other shop said just idler arm and wanted too much for replacement and you can even withhold the amount from the next shop. Please post what they say is bad and if you can, be there when they inspect and ask them to show you what is bad and why.
Thanks. Good points. I'm going to take it to a another shop that I've used in the past and ask them to inspect the suspension.
MassHoe04
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I just got a quote for $1,005 for replacing a bad Pitman arm, idle control arm and one upper control arm with almost 3 hours labor and a wheel alignment. $800 seems high for just the Idle Control Arm replacement on yours.
I can get all parts above from RA for about $250. That is with 2 UCA replacements, not just 1.
I feel pretty good about tackling the Idle Control Arm myself, especially if I get the GM one noted above that is the entire assembly with the bracket and arm included. I wouldn't have to wrestle with getting the arm off the rusty spline.
Upper Control Arm should also be fairly straight forward. I do have a ball joint "C-press" removal tool or I could try the BFH to pop the ball joint free. The rest seems pretty easy.
If I can do the ICA and the UCA myself, I might hold off on the Pitman until warmer weather or have my mechanic fight that battle for me.
I can get all parts above from RA for about $250. That is with 2 UCA replacements, not just 1.
I feel pretty good about tackling the Idle Control Arm myself, especially if I get the GM one noted above that is the entire assembly with the bracket and arm included. I wouldn't have to wrestle with getting the arm off the rusty spline.
Upper Control Arm should also be fairly straight forward. I do have a ball joint "C-press" removal tool or I could try the BFH to pop the ball joint free. The rest seems pretty easy.
If I can do the ICA and the UCA myself, I might hold off on the Pitman until warmer weather or have my mechanic fight that battle for me.
