Quick Question (I searched) about rear brake job

[KBiggZ]

Hey all

I've searched this and a few other forums, and just want to make sure I'm prepared for when I do the front and rear pads and rotors this weekend on my 2007 Yukon. I've done several american and japanese brake jobs with little surprises - and I'm estimating this to be more of the same....

I have two questions remaining though:

1. When I replace the rear rotors - will I need to adjust the ebrake or no? I'm having no issues with the ebrake now. Can't I just slide the new rotor back on and let it fly?

2. When I'm all done, will I have to do anything at all with the brake fluids other than put the cap back on and pump 'em? I see some conflicting info about scan tools and resetting ABS and stuff - seems to be overkill?

looks like I need 19mm, 18mm wrenches, c-clamp, and beer....

Thanks team!

 

[TheFuzz]

Just did mine last week. You'll need 1/2" (or 13mm) for the rear caliper bracket bolts, they are much smaller than the front 19mm bolts. You'll still need the 18mm for the rear caliper bolts, and 10mm for the bleeder valves if you're bleeding the system. If you aren't bleeding, don't even worry about taking the cap off the master cylinder. C-clamp or large clamp-style vice grips work great for the rear caliper since they are the single-piston variety.

If the rear rotors won't come off, look for two threaded holes in the front of the rotor, and thread the two 1/2" bracket bolts into the holes. Threading them all the way in will slowly push the rotor off the hub. I wasn't having any problems with my e-brakes, but upon removing the rear rotors I found that the e-brake assembly on my truck was FULL of dirt and gunk and crap. Once I cleaned it out the new rotors slid on much more easily. I didn't adjust anything on the e-brakes, I just sprayed the hell out the of assembly with parts cleaner to get all of the crap out and it. Just by doing that, it improved the feel of the e-brake pedal quite a bit, feels like they bite alot more now. If you aren't having problems, I suggest doing the same thing - spray off the assembly and let it be.

 

[KBiggZ]

thanks so much - I believe I'm prepared, and am going to use the boltbuster method of cranking off the front rotors. Good to know the tip about the back ones!

Can't wait!

 

[TheFuzz]

Its a pretty easy job overall, shoot me a PM if you get stuck on anything. Don't forget to pull out and re-grease the slide pins! The rear slide pins on my truck were completely dry, the grease was pretty much baked on. Really surprised the calipers didn't sieze. Also grease up the new clips and the back side of the pads to help eliminate squeaking.

 

[KBiggZ]

Thanks man!

3.5 hours in total with a beer break.
Probably the easiest brake job ever, using the holes in the rotors with alternator bolts popped them right off. The only issue I had was having to drill out the first 30torx screw, and the new rotors didn't have the holes for the torx screws in the right place so I didn't use them in reassembly. No squeaks, smooth and solid braking.

Thanks for the tips!