Quick Viper 5901 install question
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James909
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I'm not quite finished yet. This install is taking me much longer than I expected but I'm installing the brain in a nontraditional spot and I had to take out an old alarm. Been doing a little each day in between work and other things. It doesn't help that it's been very cold and I don't have a garage. Unfortunately I won't be able to really work on the truck again until Sunday when I'll hopefully wrap it up. So if you were planning on installing it this weekend I won't be able to have a how-to done. Be warned though the install is VERY involved. I don't want to scare you out of doing it yourself I just want to make sure you know what you're getting into.
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James909
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Hit the first snag today. I'm just about done installing it and I want to test it before I install the optional stuff like the rear defroster. This is going to sound stupid but for the life of me I can't figure out how to turn on the 2-way remote. I've tried pressing and holding each of the buttons with no luck. I've charged it overnight yet whatever I do I cannot get anything to appear on the lcd. The instructions make no mention of turning it on for the first time and I can't find any information online. I'm hoping that it's something simple but after reading through the manual again I'm getting the impression that the remote may be defective. Can anybody offer any ideas? Thanks.
Edit: Disregard the above problem. I put it on charge again and now it's showing that it's charging. It seems fine now, weird that it didn't turn on the first time though. Maybe the charger didn't make a good connection.
Edit: Disregard the above problem. I put it on charge again and now it's showing that it's charging. It seems fine now, weird that it didn't turn on the first time though. Maybe the charger didn't make a good connection.
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EDIT: I've updated this post with info on how I wired up the options (trunk release, etc). All of the information posted below has worked for me (the alarm module was defective nothing was wrong with the connections so you can disregard the problems I was discussing.) So if anybody wants to use this post as a reference, feel free, at your own risk of course I'm not a professional.
Went to test it out yesterday and I'm having very serious problems. Whenever I plug in the module all hell breaks loose. The door lock motors engage and stay engaged, the horn sounds, the car immediately starts but the starter doesn't release. Even if no power is going to the unit anything that is controlled by a ground trigger goes off like the horn and door locks. I'm thinking that the module must be faulty but was wondering if someone could take a look at my connections to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. I've triple checked my connections with a DMM at the harnesses.
NC = Not Connected
H1
1.Red/White (-)200mA Aux/Trunk Output - See Below
2.Red (+)12VDC Constant Input - +12V (10AWG fused wire connected directly to battery)
3.Brown (+)Siren Output - Red wire on siren
4.White/Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire (Pin 87a of onboard relay) - NC
5.Black (-)Chassis Ground - Grounded to screw drilled into kick panel
6.Violet (+)Door Trigger Input - NC
7.Blue (-)Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input - NC
8.Green (-) Door Trigger Input - Black/Orange wire at dome light switch (Shows continuity to ground whenever any door or the hatch is opened)
9.Black/White (-)200mA Dome Light Supervision Output - See Below
10.White/Blue (-)Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation Input - NC
11.White Parking Light Output - Brown wire at headlight switch (Shows +12V when parking lights are on; light flash polarity on module set to (+))
12.Orange (-)500mA Ground When Armed Output - NC
H2
1.Light Green/Black (-)200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output - NC
2.Orange/Black (-)200mA Aux 4 Output - NC
3.Green/White (-)200mA OEM Alarm Arm Output - NC
4.Violet/Black (-)200mA Aux 2 Output - NC
5.White/Black (-)200mA Aux 3 Output - NC
6.White/Violet (-)200mA Aux 1 Ouput - NC
7.Grey/Black (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input - NC
8.Brown/Black (-)200mA Horn Honk Output - Black Wire at steering column, shows (-) when horn is pressed
9.Violet/White Tachometer Input - Purple/White at PCM (Behind glove box)
Use the AC setting on DMM when testing this wire as most DMMs won't react fast enough on the DC setting. You should see the voltage increase as RPM's go up, the actual value isn't important though. (The actual voltage isn't changing as the signal is a pulsed one with a constant voltage. But it will appear that way on the DMM.)
10.Dark Blue (-)200mA Status Output - NC
11.Pink/White (-)200mA Flex Relay Control Output - NC
12.Orange (-)200mA Accessory Output - NC
13.Purple (-)200mA Starter Output - NC
14.Pink (-)200mA Ignition 1 Output - NC
15.Grey (-)Hood Pin Input - To hood pin switch
16.Blue/White (-)200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output - Wired as rear defroster, see below
17.Brown (+)Brake Shutdown Input - White wire at brake switch, shows +12V when brake is depressed
18.Black/White (-)Neutral Safety Input - Ground
H3
1.Pink (+)Ignition 1 Input/Output - Pink wire, shows +12V in run and start positions
2.Red/White (87) Flex Relay Input (30A Fused) - NC
3.Orange (+)Accessory Output - Orange wire, shows +12V in run but not start position
4.Violet (+)Starter Output (Car Side Of Starter Kill) - Starter side of purple wire (cut), shows +12V in start position
5.Green (+)Starter Input (Key Side Of Starter Kill) - Ignition switch side of above purple wire
6.Red Ignition 1 Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
7.Pink/White (30) Flex Relay Output - NC
8.Pink/Black (87a) Flex Relay Input - NC
9.Red/Black Accessory/Starter Relay Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
10.No Connection
Door Lock
1.Blue (-)500mA Unlock Output - Green wire of Audiovox AS9159
2. Empty
3.Green (-)500mA Lock Output - Red wire of Audiovox AS9159
The truck already had an Audiovox AS9159 door lock interface module installed from a previous alarm. It accepts (-) pulses from alarm systems so I just left that alone and connected the 5901 wires accordingly.
Hatch Release
Wire up relay as follows.
Pin 85 - Constant +12V
86 - Red/White wire from 5901
30 - Constant +12V
87 - Black/White wire at hatch release switch. (Shows +12V when hatch release is activated.)
87A - NC
Dome Light Supervision
Wire relay as follows.
Pin 85 - Constant +12V
86 - Black/White from 5901
30 - Ground
87 - White wire from one of the interior lights. (Shows ground when dome lights are on.) I used the light under the driver's side dash that illuminates the floor pan.
87A - NC
Rear Defroster
Wire relay as follows.
Pin 85 - Constant +12V
86 - Blue/White from 5901
30 - Constant +12V
87 - Purple/White wire at rear defroster switch. (Shows +12V when ignition and rear defroster are on.)
87A - NC
All the above connections were made by soldering and then either using heat shrink if possible or electrical tape.
Of course double check everything with a DMM in case there is any difference in wiring colors. Also appropriately fuse all power wires as close to the power source as possible. I also recommend using quenching diodes across the coil of any relays you use to protect the alarm module from voltage spikes. Connect the diode with the stripe (cathode) closest to the pin supplying +12V across the coil.
I'm sorry for the long post. If someone could let me know if I made any mistakes I would really appreciate it. I've been driving myself crazy going over all of the connections and can't find any problems.
Went to test it out yesterday and I'm having very serious problems. Whenever I plug in the module all hell breaks loose. The door lock motors engage and stay engaged, the horn sounds, the car immediately starts but the starter doesn't release. Even if no power is going to the unit anything that is controlled by a ground trigger goes off like the horn and door locks. I'm thinking that the module must be faulty but was wondering if someone could take a look at my connections to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. I've triple checked my connections with a DMM at the harnesses.
NC = Not Connected
H1
1.Red/White (-)200mA Aux/Trunk Output - See Below
2.Red (+)12VDC Constant Input - +12V (10AWG fused wire connected directly to battery)
3.Brown (+)Siren Output - Red wire on siren
4.White/Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire (Pin 87a of onboard relay) - NC
5.Black (-)Chassis Ground - Grounded to screw drilled into kick panel
6.Violet (+)Door Trigger Input - NC
7.Blue (-)Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input - NC
8.Green (-) Door Trigger Input - Black/Orange wire at dome light switch (Shows continuity to ground whenever any door or the hatch is opened)
9.Black/White (-)200mA Dome Light Supervision Output - See Below
10.White/Blue (-)Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation Input - NC
11.White Parking Light Output - Brown wire at headlight switch (Shows +12V when parking lights are on; light flash polarity on module set to (+))
12.Orange (-)500mA Ground When Armed Output - NC
H2
1.Light Green/Black (-)200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output - NC
2.Orange/Black (-)200mA Aux 4 Output - NC
3.Green/White (-)200mA OEM Alarm Arm Output - NC
4.Violet/Black (-)200mA Aux 2 Output - NC
5.White/Black (-)200mA Aux 3 Output - NC
6.White/Violet (-)200mA Aux 1 Ouput - NC
7.Grey/Black (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input - NC
8.Brown/Black (-)200mA Horn Honk Output - Black Wire at steering column, shows (-) when horn is pressed
9.Violet/White Tachometer Input - Purple/White at PCM (Behind glove box)
Use the AC setting on DMM when testing this wire as most DMMs won't react fast enough on the DC setting. You should see the voltage increase as RPM's go up, the actual value isn't important though. (The actual voltage isn't changing as the signal is a pulsed one with a constant voltage. But it will appear that way on the DMM.)
10.Dark Blue (-)200mA Status Output - NC
11.Pink/White (-)200mA Flex Relay Control Output - NC
12.Orange (-)200mA Accessory Output - NC
13.Purple (-)200mA Starter Output - NC
14.Pink (-)200mA Ignition 1 Output - NC
15.Grey (-)Hood Pin Input - To hood pin switch
16.Blue/White (-)200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output - Wired as rear defroster, see below
17.Brown (+)Brake Shutdown Input - White wire at brake switch, shows +12V when brake is depressed
18.Black/White (-)Neutral Safety Input - Ground
H3
1.Pink (+)Ignition 1 Input/Output - Pink wire, shows +12V in run and start positions
2.Red/White (87) Flex Relay Input (30A Fused) - NC
3.Orange (+)Accessory Output - Orange wire, shows +12V in run but not start position
4.Violet (+)Starter Output (Car Side Of Starter Kill) - Starter side of purple wire (cut), shows +12V in start position
5.Green (+)Starter Input (Key Side Of Starter Kill) - Ignition switch side of above purple wire
6.Red Ignition 1 Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
7.Pink/White (30) Flex Relay Output - NC
8.Pink/Black (87a) Flex Relay Input - NC
9.Red/Black Accessory/Starter Relay Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
10.No Connection
Door Lock
1.Blue (-)500mA Unlock Output - Green wire of Audiovox AS9159
2. Empty
3.Green (-)500mA Lock Output - Red wire of Audiovox AS9159
The truck already had an Audiovox AS9159 door lock interface module installed from a previous alarm. It accepts (-) pulses from alarm systems so I just left that alone and connected the 5901 wires accordingly.
Hatch Release
Wire up relay as follows.
Pin 85 - Constant +12V
86 - Red/White wire from 5901
30 - Constant +12V
87 - Black/White wire at hatch release switch. (Shows +12V when hatch release is activated.)
87A - NC
Dome Light Supervision
Wire relay as follows.
Pin 85 - Constant +12V
86 - Black/White from 5901
30 - Ground
87 - White wire from one of the interior lights. (Shows ground when dome lights are on.) I used the light under the driver's side dash that illuminates the floor pan.
87A - NC
Rear Defroster
Wire relay as follows.
Pin 85 - Constant +12V
86 - Blue/White from 5901
30 - Constant +12V
87 - Purple/White wire at rear defroster switch. (Shows +12V when ignition and rear defroster are on.)
87A - NC
All the above connections were made by soldering and then either using heat shrink if possible or electrical tape.
Of course double check everything with a DMM in case there is any difference in wiring colors. Also appropriately fuse all power wires as close to the power source as possible. I also recommend using quenching diodes across the coil of any relays you use to protect the alarm module from voltage spikes. Connect the diode with the stripe (cathode) closest to the pin supplying +12V across the coil.
I'm sorry for the long post. If someone could let me know if I made any mistakes I would really appreciate it. I've been driving myself crazy going over all of the connections and can't find any problems.
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James909
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I doubt that any professional would've been willing to take over my 'mess' haha.
But the good news is I got it working. The brain of the alarm was defective. I bought another alarm and plugged in the new brain and voila, it works. Apparently this doesn't happen very often as even an installer that was trying to help me troubleshoot over the phone doubted that the alarm was defective. I'm not done yet as this really slowed me down but I just have a few small things left to do.
But the good news is I got it working. The brain of the alarm was defective. I bought another alarm and plugged in the new brain and voila, it works. Apparently this doesn't happen very often as even an installer that was trying to help me troubleshoot over the phone doubted that the alarm was defective. I'm not done yet as this really slowed me down but I just have a few small things left to do.
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James909
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I just wanted to let everyone know that I updated post #15 with more info, and made sure everything was correct. The above set up is working for me so if you would like to use that post as a reference for your own install feel free.
Overall I'd say it was a pretty difficult install. I have a new respect for the people that do this everyday. I'm still glad I did it myself though as I like to do things myself and learn along the way.
Overall I'd say it was a pretty difficult install. I have a new respect for the people that do this everyday. I'm still glad I did it myself though as I like to do things myself and learn along the way.
Thank you so much for your post, it helped me get through installing a viper 5101 this past week. I am having one problem, I can not get it out of manual transmission mode and into automatic transmission mode. I have looked through the installation manual and I don't see how to program it in there. Any ideas?
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James909
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Glad to help. I'll explain how I programmed the 5901, I would imagine it would be the same as the 5101 although the menu and feature numbers are probably different. So check your owners manual to find out what number feature changing the transmission mode is and what menu it's in.
1. Open a door.
2. Turn the ignition to run and then back off.
3. Quickly push and hold the valet button.
4. After a couple of seconds the siren will chirp once indicating that you are in the first menu. Continue holding the button until it chirps the amount of times corresponding to the menu that you're looking for and release the button.
5. Quickly press the valet button the number of times corresponding to the feature you wish to change.
6. Press the button again and hold it. The siren will chirp the number of times corresponding to the feature that you're changing.
7. While holding the valet button select the option you're looking for. If there is only two options the arm button selects the first one and the disarm button selects the second one. If there are more options the arm button selects them in ascending order and the disarm button in descending order. After each button push the siren will chirp the number of times corresponding to the option that is selected.
8. Release the valet button.
9. The system will exit programming mode after 30 seconds, if the door is closed, or the ignition is turned on and off. The siren will sound a partial alarm to indicate that it is no longer in programming mode.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
1. Open a door.
2. Turn the ignition to run and then back off.
3. Quickly push and hold the valet button.
4. After a couple of seconds the siren will chirp once indicating that you are in the first menu. Continue holding the button until it chirps the amount of times corresponding to the menu that you're looking for and release the button.
5. Quickly press the valet button the number of times corresponding to the feature you wish to change.
6. Press the button again and hold it. The siren will chirp the number of times corresponding to the feature that you're changing.
7. While holding the valet button select the option you're looking for. If there is only two options the arm button selects the first one and the disarm button selects the second one. If there are more options the arm button selects them in ascending order and the disarm button in descending order. After each button push the siren will chirp the number of times corresponding to the option that is selected.
8. Release the valet button.
9. The system will exit programming mode after 30 seconds, if the door is closed, or the ignition is turned on and off. The siren will sound a partial alarm to indicate that it is no longer in programming mode.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
