Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
He sure did--he was still a loser!
Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
- Start date
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OP
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randeez
Full Access Member
he left while i was still building some boost, but still beat him end to end. the 1.5 second i beat him by was just about as much of a head start as i gave him but passed him right before the line to really punk his ass
he didnt even want to chat after that
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Lol, I was gonna say he must've been mad!
he left while i was still building some boost, but still beat him end to end. the 1.5 second i beat him by was just about as much of a head start as i gave him but passed him right before the line to really punk his ass
Sam Harris
Supporting Member
[emoji1787]
he left while i was still building some boost, but still beat him end to end. the 1.5 second i beat him by was just about as much of a head start as i gave him but passed him right before the line to really punk his ass
Sore loser
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Looks like you have the suspension and tire pressure dialed, I didn't see any tire spin or other drama just hook and book.
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
it needs to be faster and you cant convince me otherwise. id launch another 1000rpm higher if it'd hold
i think i also figured out the prob with the 1>2 shift, basically it just needs to have the wot rpm raised up enough to account for the converter slip. the engine input speed (rpm) doesnt match the trans output/gear ratio, and is off about 1000rpm. which in itself is a converter issue that there is that much slip but in this nonconventional install i think its just something i have to live with.
so basically im telling it to shift at 6800, but because its slipping 1000rpm the trans is that far behind the engine, 6800/2.48 (1st gear ratio) = 2742 rans rpm. but because im slipping the 1000rpm the trans is only seeing 5800/2.48= 2339 output rpm at the time it shifts.
normally the converter would be super tight if it were spec'd, and i wasnt making enough hp. so not sure if the opposite it happening and its loose af cause of too much power, but the higher i bring the rpm, the more power, the worse the slippage it going to be. i threw another 500rpm at it for the 1-2 shift (7300rpm) to see if it will carry 1st gear a little further. it sometimes does make the shift at the commanded rpm so i dont want to throw another 1000rpm in it and have it actually run out to nearly 8k rpm a few times
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
it needs to be faster and you cant convince me otherwise. id launch another 1000rpm higher if it'd hold
i think i also figured out the prob with the 1>2 shift, basically it just needs to have the wot rpm raised up enough to account for the converter slip. the engine input speed (rpm) doesnt match the trans output/gear ratio, and is off about 1000rpm. which in itself is a converter issue that there is that much slip but in this nonconventional install i think its just something i have to live with.
so basically im telling it to shift at 6800, but because its slipping 1000rpm the trans is that far behind the engine, 6800/2.48 (1st gear ratio) = 2742 rans rpm. but because im slipping the 1000rpm the trans is only seeing 5800/2.48= 2339 output rpm at the time it shifts.
normally the converter would be super tight if it were spec'd, and i wasnt making enough hp. so not sure if the opposite it happening and its loose af cause of too much power, but the higher i bring the rpm, the more power, the worse the slippage it going to be. i threw another 500rpm at it for the 1-2 shift (7300rpm) to see if it will carry 1st gear a little further
So besides the 1-2 shift changes and some tune cleanup what do you plan to do to make moar powa? Moar Boost? Moar Timing? Better fuel? or less weight?
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
****** schweet. That ***** rolls out!
Glad to finally see it in action. Mustang at the end...lol
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
options/actions:
bumped up the base fuel pressure and am adding some ms109 to keep injector duty cycle under 100% atleast - aside from going to a straight c16 fuel or something im not going to gain much but pay $250 bux for a fill up
tuning: timing i can add a few degrees if i want to i rarely get any KR and its usually less than .5, boost is peg'd at 255kpa with this ecu so whatever is in the last cell at that rpm is what is fueling it. which i can play around with some and run it a little rich at the actual @255kpa and as it goes beyond itll lean out some as demand increases. - this is done
needs tires so i can launch/get 60' down would prob cut the most time off, the straps do help but still spins. hate the way 29" tall tires look tho lol
cutting weight kinda defeats the purpose for me, its not quite fast enough for doing hero run fully stripped down just for bragging rights
still havent tried running with the exhaust off of it, but thats kind of the same realm as stripping the interior - would never drive it around with no exhaust so why bother
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Huh, I didn't realize the ECU would max out like that but I guess I never considered anything over 500-700hp lol.
I get the fueling thing just a waste of money, same shaving weight off the truck. you could lose weight yourself assuming your not already holocaust skinny (Happy 76th anniversary of Aushwitz being freed) .
I agree 29s would look silly, but you could do a massive 4" cutout right off the downpipe I have a 4" QTP on my parts shelf.
I don't think I personally would throw more timing at it unless I wanted to swap a motor.
