Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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Biggest gain for your rear driveshaft is it won't explode like a stock one over 100mph... not that a Yukon would ever go that fast...

ive had it...a little faster but it has been off and balanced a few times, pinion angle has been set up a couple degrees negative, and its short wheel base/awd so shortest driveshaft possible.
 
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randeez

randeez

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my to do list, abunch of little things i just couldnt really do without transmission in:

shift cable from my 6l80 "should" work but i need to find the correct bracket to space/mount it, whether thats a stock 4l60/4l80 or after market i dont know cant really find much info. buddy of mine has a few stock and aftermarket brackets at his shop going to run by in the morning and grab an assortment and see what works before buying 5 different ones and hoping one of them works.
Ended up bending up the stock one, may need a little more work but keeps shift cable away from front drive shaft

harness looks like it should all plug right in and work fine, need to take a look a whatever tune is in the tcm. ive heard a lot of people just swapping in all the tables from tow mode into the normal mode and just reducing shift times and leaving it alone. hoping its that easy, kind of over thinking it after investing so much time into trying to tune the 6l80 im sure
plugged in battery, pulled tune, used bluecat trans tuning program to start, set up all the other crap that needs to be. going to wait till i can drive it to see if force table and shift timing needs work

need to modify stock trans crossmember, mount moves back about 2" and its right on the edge. so i need to build a little kick out where it mounts. need to see what kind of scrap angle iron or something i got around.
eh its done, but kinda halfassed, may grab another and do a cleaner job.

after mount is done i need to get transfer case on and see where im at with drive shafts. the front i actually shortened 1-1/2 when i did the front diff swap. so now that the transfercase will be 2" back i think i stock driveshaft will work just fine - which i picked up a long time ago in case i wanted to go back to 8.25 ifs at any point. the rear driveshaft if it just needs to be shortened 2" ill have my local guy do it right quick to be back on the road.
stock front will work, rear got dropped off to be shortened 2", this is with 14bolt rear also stock driveshaft worked when i swapped it in but pushed into transfer case 1/2" or so further. with stock 10bolt 1-1/2 would prob be fine.

ignition coils - i grabbed everything to move them off the valve covers and i want to do it but if it ends up thats the only left to do ill prob just throw them back on in stock location. need to get exhaust parts back first so i stay away from it all
havent touched

intake is good to go, waiting on new charge pipe - the angle it goes into throttle body has changed a lot. this i can probably make work though if needed.
intake is on, fuel lines ran, pcv/catchcan on, vacuum block on with hobbs switch/blow off valve/evap vent/ have room for fpr if needed - different charge pipe should be here this week

i think i only have one more sensor i need to extend the wiring for and then do final tape/loom on the harness.
done, also tyrap'd up conversion harness to 4l80

bleed the brakes and the power steering crap. swapped to hydroboost and havent even started it up, need to see if the fittings i used are going to work im about 80% confident they will.
cant do power steering till its running, i will prob bleed out the brakes sometime this week

and driving the completion date for all of it is all exhaust parts from engine and under the hood are getting coated not to sure when theyll be back: both manifolds, crossover, turbo housing, waste gate housing, downpipe
delivery friday.

and then abunch of other little misc stuff; sway bar, end links, oil, coolant, catchcan mount/plumb, run hoses and flush trans coolers
 

Sam Harris

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my to do list, abunch of little things i just couldnt really do without transmission in:

shift cable from my 6l80 "should" work but i need to find the correct bracket to space/mount it, whether thats a stock 4l60/4l80 or after market i dont know cant really find much info. buddy of mine has a few stock and aftermarket brackets at his shop going to run by in the morning and grab an assortment and see what works before buying 5 different ones and hoping one of them works.
Ended up bending up the stock one, may need a little more work but keeps shift cable away from front drive shaft

harness looks like it should all plug right in and work fine, need to take a look a whatever tune is in the tcm. ive heard a lot of people just swapping in all the tables from tow mode into the normal mode and just reducing shift times and leaving it alone. hoping its that easy, kind of over thinking it after investing so much time into trying to tune the 6l80 im sure
plugged in battery, pulled tune, used bluecat trans tuning program to start, set up all the other crap that needs to be. going to wait till i can drive it to see if force table and shift timing needs work

need to modify stock trans crossmember, mount moves back about 2" and its right on the edge. so i need to build a little kick out where it mounts. need to see what kind of scrap angle iron or something i got around.
eh its done, but kinda halfassed, may grab another and do a cleaner job.

after mount is done i need to get transfer case on and see where im at with drive shafts. the front i actually shortened 1-1/2 when i did the front diff swap. so now that the transfercase will be 2" back i think i stock driveshaft will work just fine - which i picked up a long time ago in case i wanted to go back to 8.25 ifs at any point. the rear driveshaft if it just needs to be shortened 2" ill have my local guy do it right quick to be back on the road.
stock front will work, rear got dropped off to be shortened 2", this is with 14bolt rear also stock driveshaft worked when i swapped it in but pushed into transfer case 1/2" or so further. with stock 10bolt 1-1/2 would prob be fine.

ignition coils - i grabbed everything to move them off the valve covers and i want to do it but if it ends up thats the only left to do ill prob just throw them back on in stock location. need to get exhaust parts back first so i stay away from it all
havent touched

intake is good to go, waiting on new charge pipe - the angle it goes into throttle body has changed a lot. this i can probably make work though if needed.
intake is on, fuel lines ran, pcv/catchcan on, vacuum block on with hobbs switch/blow off valve/evap vent/ have room for fpr if needed - different charge pipe should be here this week

i think i only have one more sensor i need to extend the wiring for and then do final tape/loom on the harness.
done, also tyrap'd up conversion harness to 4l80

bleed the brakes and the power steering crap. swapped to hydroboost and havent even started it up, need to see if the fittings i used are going to work im about 80% confident they will.
cant do power steering till its running, i will prob bleed out the brakes sometime this week

and driving the completion date for all of it is all exhaust parts from engine and under the hood are getting coated not to sure when theyll be back: both manifolds, crossover, turbo housing, waste gate housing, downpipe
delivery friday.

and then abunch of other little misc stuff; sway bar, end links, oil, coolant, catchcan mount/plumb, run hoses and flush trans coolers
Getting closer.. [emoji106][emoji16][emoji631]
 
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randeez

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:beer:

bled all the brakes, fluid was nice and syrup colored.
changed the oil/filter
put about 8qts dexron vi in the transmission - rossler said to use a 50/50 dex with some ford type f or b&m racing fluid or something to thin it out i guess, i ordered 6qts of type f fluid. but i want to flush the coolers and lines out anyway so i'l going to do all that with the dexron i have and i'll top it off till 6qts of type f are in it
 

tgui

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This is a thing? I've had my Tahoe over 100 many times. Past 120 yesterday, actually. Do I need to make a couple of loops, scattershields... ?

It's a thing. The longer the stock driveshaft the worse the chance. My last Yukon purchased a custom balanced shaft.

It's not so much the debri, it's that when it goes it can take out your trans or xfrr case, whip around a ton of times and remove wiring and other delicate bits
 
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randeez

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:emotions33:
I dont think I ever posted about this cause it was kinda dumb...
where i do my "test and tuning" is out in an area, long straight four lane road, or a couple empty 2lane back roads, very little traffic after dark, but there is my local track that also does road racing...out one night tooling around and a porsche came flying up on my while i was behind a semi coming up on my turn....i was going to wait until it was legal to pass (broken center line)- again no one usually around. semi turned in front of us and porsche went to bolt around both of us soon as he could. let him go first and followed behind didnt really egg him on much but stayed close enough to see what he thought he had. ran up to about 100mph and said **** it lol, prob reeled him about 5 car lengths and started passing him 130+mph dude was not happy i shut down about a car length ahead of him

20190626_211538.jpg
 
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