Dantheman1540
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Me likey 
Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
- Start date
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randeez
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yea im going to take a little more care and check everything before it goes back in... instead of expecting people building crap will last more than 1500miles
last time after waiting months for the engine, came with head damaged, sent whole thing back to them and told them to check everything back over, waiting another few months when i came back thrust did seem a little loose, but at that point i just wanted the shit to go in and work when i probably shouldve made a big deal about it. sooo i'll verify a few things myself as i go.
last time after waiting months for the engine, came with head damaged, sent whole thing back to them and told them to check everything back over, waiting another few months when i came back thrust did seem a little loose, but at that point i just wanted the shit to go in and work when i probably shouldve made a big deal about it. sooo i'll verify a few things myself as i go.
pwtr02ss
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randeez
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50lb package from vsracing is waiting at home 
Did you check the thrust with a dial caliper? I checked mine after I destroyed my first Performabuilt trans just to rule out problems and even at 160k it was still well within spec.
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randeez
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it was a brand new engine...i didnt think i would need to. i didnt check it and i should have but i'm not saying it was "bad" from the get go. i didnt notice it until engine was in and i put crank pulley on and random did the 'ol pull on it to make it it wasnt going to fall off and it made a clink sound. i've always heard if you can make it clink going back and forth its too loose, sposed to be .005-.015 or something like that stock right? but like i said at the point i had bugged these MFs so many times about dumb, trivial stuff and asked that everything be checked over again and again that it should have been caught on their end
and also the converter that failed could have caused it and damage was already done by the time i changed it and trans and whatever and it would have been out of everyones hands at that point so who knows - prob should have been checked then also lol. in either case, yes that will be checked
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randeez
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Got some sweet fittings in today...
End play is .04- .2 mm according to alldatadiy. I heard that about pulling on it and hearing a clink and freaked out when I tried that and heard a slight clink so I ordered a dial indicator and waited. But when I checked it was around .09 mm so I guess that bit of advice isn’t true. I checked many times- push it in, pull on it and hear the clink, push on it, set the dial indicator, pull on it check the number...like I said several times. Every time it was right about .09 mm. My whole reason for doing it was because Performabuilt had told me that the input shaft on the trans looked like the converter had been hitting on it and it looked hammered from that. I even sent the converter to FTI and had them inspect it for evidence and they said it had not been hitting the input shaft. Also I figured if the thrust was that bad I would have had other bigger problems. Anyway I hope things go better for you this time around.
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randeez
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You didn't actually think I wanted to give up hvac right?
So two port electric water pump...-16an to the engine, -16an to -8an reducer in the other
. In my ocd the crescent shape of the water pump outlets, the further one, imo, would flow better thus thats the one I'd rather have going to engine. But this thing isn't fully threaded for fittings - 16an is the meziere fitting and only has about 3 threads on it, the reducer is a fragola fitting and wouldn't seat in the other hole
On the water manifold the lower ports are the "high pressure" (into engine), top is "low pressure" out of engine suction back to radiator so I want to have heater cores dump back into top and the steam ports plumb back into he top (two 1/8npt ports)
So two port electric water pump...-16an to the engine, -16an to -8an reducer in the other
. In my ocd the crescent shape of the water pump outlets, the further one, imo, would flow better thus thats the one I'd rather have going to engine. But this thing isn't fully threaded for fittings - 16an is the meziere fitting and only has about 3 threads on it, the reducer is a fragola fitting and wouldn't seat in the other holeOn the water manifold the lower ports are the "high pressure" (into engine), top is "low pressure" out of engine suction back to radiator so I want to have heater cores dump back into top and the steam ports plumb back into he top (two 1/8npt ports)
