Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[kbuskill]

where "AFP" is written thats the top plate they sandwich the control arm where the stock shock mounts

I was just going to suggest mounting them below the control arm... it gives you about 2" of drop but it is very important to use Grade 9 bolts...

 

[randeez]

these mount a spherical bearing no flipping
with the spring i have i should be able to set ride height about an inch to the fender and still have plenty not to bottom out

\/ these are pics of my truck on atomics website lol, going to have to send updated pics

 

[iamdub]

I know i left it in there so the trans would be sealed.

I thought you couldn't leave a converter hanging unsupported on the input shaft for a long time cuz it pulls it down slightly and will deform the seal, causing a leak. I've never investigated for truth to this, though.

 

[randeez]

I thought you couldn't leave a converter hanging unsupported on the input shaft for a long time cuz it pulls it down slightly and will deform the seal, causing a leak. I've never investigated for truth to this, though.

dunno , taking my chances i guess. wasnt planning on it takin so long

 

[iamdub]

...wasnt planning on it takin so long

Heard that!

 

[randeez]

its getting hard to not just buy everything new so its all clean

ordered new front diff mounts - mine needed bushing anyway and were rusted up...new ones are painted black new bushing already installed . rockauto had em the cheapest like $160/set delivered

wheel hubs and backing plates i want to just order some new ones, but theyre both still tight - one only has like 10k miles on it. i wired brushed them up pretty good. like $140/each for what i would buy

the other lower control arm came, it matches! blue boot, hoping the other upper comes in right (wednesday delivery it looks like)

frame is painted, went over it one more time with a small roller to even the open areas out. i'll prob do one more look over to make sure its covered good before putting it back together.

spreadin them lower coilover mounts, i used a fully threaded stud with two nuts on the inside and opened them up. still pretty tight but it should work.

 

[randeez]

Since I have the front end so torn apart I should be able to throw it in about how it sits here.
I'm not sure if I will be able to get the ac compressor top rear bolt in though, maybe a shorter bolt or stud

 

[randeez]

Lower arms...painted the lower coil over bracket silver instead of black this time around. I ain't doin crap to the arms.
Upper brackets I painted black, can't see em up in the pocket anyway

 

[Sam Harris]

Looking good! Getting close to having a motor back in that bish!

 

[randeez]

Looking good! Getting close to having a motor back in that bish!

motor back in is about the only part thats going to get done soon

on the to do list after its in:
on mishimoto radiator need to cut off hose fittings and get an fittings welded on prob this weekend- trying to catch my welder, if i drop it off to him it'll be weeks before i see it again. mock up new radiator lines, mount electric water pump, wire, plumb etc - hose and fittings for it are $$ so i didnt want to buy till i knew what would work.

need to do power steering pump mounted, wired, plumbed as well, i think i have everything for it though...the eps takes some weird hydraulic fluid i heard is kind of important i need to get some.

i'm still not really positive the alternator in that location wont hit the steering joint lol, and i need a hair longer belt (ordered 900mm), it goes on tight with the alternator as close as it goes to the crank and the bracket sits on the cam sensor, maybe like 5mm more would be perfect.

upper arms should be delivered today, and the front diff brackets will be here friday. as much as i want to put the engine in without the front diff, i would prob scratch the hell out of my new paint job putting diff in after engine