Range of cost for rear main seal job at a shop?

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Geotrash

Dave
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How difficult is the converter swap? I've never messed with one before. Is it just pulling out the old one, and pushing on a new one?

I assume there has to be some sort of depth measurement.
Not difficult. Basically slide the old one out and the new one in. There can be some complications with the super special transmission input shaft seal, but some who's done it would need to comment. @donjetman put a new one in his '07 a few years ago and documented it in his build thread.

The converter I had installed was recommended by my local indy transmission shop and was a remanufactured OEM unit with a billet cover installed and a stronger lockup clutch. Made by CVC, model BU60FHD.
 

mattbta

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For my 2004 NBS, Feb 2022, I paid $926 for the whole kit (cover gasket and main seal) and engine oil change. Trans fluid swap and filter kit was another $170. A year and a half later, I would expect those numbers to be up considerably. Last week, I had them quote some more work and the labor rate is $165/hr. :eek:
 

donjetman

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I'm at a little under 170k miles, and "think" I'm getting the inevitable rear main seal leak. It's more of a seap, but there's a definite leak. How much of my piggy bank should I plan on breaking open for something like this on a 4x4?

I'm currently watching a few videos to see if it's possible to do in my gravel driveway, but it's not looking to promising.
Did my rear main in 2018 when it had 130k miles and today its still dry as a bone with 190k miles. Here ya go with a lot of pics.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/
 

Larryjb

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I decided that if I need to remove the trans Ilol find an excuse to pickup this bad boy

The advantage of an actual transmission jack is that it has microadjustments for when you are putting the transmission back onto the studs. These are really helpful.

 
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Charlie207

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Can't drag those on gravel, lol.

As for the leak, I just went out with my phone, and recorded video with a light on, and jammed it back by the oil pressure sensor. I see some wetness back there, so I'll get in there with the socket and see if I can't tighten it up some more. Fun.

Or maybe I'll just wait until I have more time and pull the entire intake off to check the VLOM bolts.

What should I replace while I have the intake manifold off?
 

Geotrash

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What should I replace while I have the intake manifold off?
The VLOM itself and the oil pressure sensor if that hasn't been done recently. Might as well do the valve cover gaskets, too. Might be a good time to replace the evap. solenoid while you have the fuel rail apart. And of course new intake manifold gaskets.
 

89Suburban

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The VLOM itself and the oil pressure sensor if that hasn't been done recently. Might as well do the valve cover gaskets, too. Might be a good time to replace the evap. solenoid while you have the fuel rail apart. And of course new intake manifold gaskets.
And crossover steam pipe gaskets.
 

wjburken

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The advantage of an actual transmission jack is that it has microadjustments for when you are putting the transmission back onto the studs. These are really helpful.

I have this. Works well. Handled the 4R100 out of my sons 2001 F-350 just fine.
 

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