Real main seal replacement help

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Kodiak Yukon

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hello all. This is my first post and new user to the forum and excited to be a new owner of a vehicle. I just bought a 2007 GMC YUKON SLT with 150k miles. I live in Alaska and when I bought it I was in 4 feet of snow. Well now that it's not snowing time for inspections. I am pretty sure I have a real main seal leak. I am going through the entire vehicle and am going to replace ever filter and oil. I have already replaced all rotors and pads and tires. Does anyone have any advice or another thread that has a step by step on how to replace the rear main seal or any lessons learn would be really appreciated. Thanks for all the help.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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Also, if anyone can help me out with any suggestions on any other jobs that I should do while i am working on it in the shop? I plan on doing the engine oil pan gasket as well but is there any jobs that I should do while I have everything apart. Yes I will change the transmission oil and filter but I am not sure if there is any other preventive maintenance that I should do as well. Or hard jobs that I should do just because I have everything apart. Thanks again.
 

kbuskill

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If you are dropping the oil pan it is the prime opportunity to AT LEAST replace the O-ring on the oil pumps pick up tube. Alot of them were supposedly damaged during install at the factory and over time the O-ring shrinks and causes the oil pump to suck air which gives you poor or no oil pressure.

If you feel froggy its not that much more work to pull the timing chain cover amd replace the oil pump and timing chain. And the motor mounts are also easier to change while the oil pan is off.

I recently did the above mentioned and went with the Mellings 10355 High volume/High pressure oil pump and now have around 60psi oil pressure cold or hot idle.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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If you are dropping the oil pan it is the prime opportunity to AT LEAST replace the O-ring on the oil pumps pick up tube. Alot of them were supposedly damaged during install at the factory and over time the O-ring shrinks and causes the oil pump to suck air which gives you poor or no oil pressure.

If you feel froggy its not that much more work to pull the timing chain cover amd replace the oil pump and timing chain. And the motor mounts are also easier to change while the oil pan is off.

I recently did the above mentioned and went with the Mellings 10355 High volume/High pressure oil pump and now have around 60psi oil pressure cold or hot idle.

Good idea about the O-ring replacement. That's an easy addition to the job. I will inspect the motor mounts. What makes it easier to replace them with the oil pan removed?
 

kbuskill

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It just gives you more room to maneuver them out and back in. But people do it all the time with the oil pan in place so its obviously doable. Just thought I would mention it because they are prone to breaking.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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It just gives you more room to maneuver them out and back in. But people do it all the time with the oil pan in place so its obviously doable. Just thought I would mention it because they are prone to breaking.

Thanks for mentioning it. THATS GREAT stuff. I will take a closer look at them and make sure to do it then if they need replacement. Thank you.

Does anyone have a thread that they know of or point me in the right direction on how to replace the rear main seal? Just want to make sure I have all the parts needed before I get into it since I live on an island in alaska.
 

rook

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Thanks for mentioning it. THATS GREAT stuff. I will take a closer look at them and make sure to do it then if they need replacement. Thank you.

Does anyone have a thread that they know of or point me in the right direction on how to replace the rear main seal? Just want to make sure I have all the parts needed before I get into it since I live on an island in alaska.

I'm interested in this too. I need a tranny, and I think I'm leaking from he rear main seal - so I'll tackle both when the slush box finally explodes... any info or good threads appreciated.


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sumo

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There are plenty of YouTube vid on how to. For the 5.3 they make a rear main seal that's installed on a plate. Since you plan on dropped my the oil pan, 2 bolts go into the plate that I mentioned. Unbolt it and reinstall a new one. The trans will have to be removed or slide back were you can access the rear main seal.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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Thanks kbuskill for the useful knowledge.

Anyone do the job before and any lessons learned. And parts that they needed that they didn't have.
 
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