If all else fails, get a bigger hammer. That advice still holds the test of time. Good work! 
Rear axle C-clip removal guidance?
- Thread starter 5StarCustmSolutns
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
5StarCustmSolutns
Full Access Member
I like how you labeled your parts.
Thanks.. 100% honest: it was more out of cautious concern to ensure that it works here in a couple days than it was experience. That and Meticulous OCD Syndrome.
Im just glad I was alone when picking out the marker colors! Took me like 10min, felt like an hour lol......Wanted to use Red for Right >> then thought Red wouldn't show up well enough >> then spent another couple minutes trying to think of another color that starts w/R that would be bright enough >> settled on Rorange >> a couple more minutes trying to think of a color that started with L (smh) >> and ended up using Lhite
Thanks.. 100% honest: it was more out of cautious concern to ensure that it works here in a couple days than it was experience. That and Meticulous OCD Syndrome.
Im just glad I was alone when picking out the marker colors! Took me like 10min, felt like an hour lol......Wanted to use Red for Right >> then thought Red wouldn't show up well enough >> then spent another couple minutes trying to think of another color that starts w/R that would be bright enough >> settled on Rorange >> a couple more minutes trying to think of a color that started with L (smh) >> and ended up using Lhite
So what's the latest on this project?
OP
OP
5StarCustmSolutns
Full Access Member
Decided on 14 bolt 9.5" w/3.42 and front R&P swap -instead of- putting an Eaton Detroit Truetrac carrier in my 10 bolt. A little more work and a couple hundred more $$(at least until I sell my 10 bolt), but I tow one of 3 trailers a couple days a week avg, always have a few hundred lbs in the truck and do it on steep winding WV roads. There's plenty of 100k mile or less 14's available within flat rate shipping range. Confirmed a couple yesterday morn, then had to take my lady to work and take her car to buddies body shop to recalibrate the BCM so her seat and steering column would move again. Lost about 6hrs there.....it's always something lol.
Been back at it since about 545 this morn. Trying to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing, locate the tools needed, and not miss some little detail that could be a problem like.....the 14 bolt having a larger hub bore or similar.
This will be my first re-gear attempt and I've gone from trying learn how to replace broken carrier/correctly set up R&P -to- how to swap out whole rear assembly and set up front R&P since Friday afternoon. Head just stopped spinning about an hour ago
edit**Would be awesome if someone would confirm that the 14 bolt 9.5 is the better choice?
Sat I was locked into the Truetrac, then I read a couple long threads on here about the 14 swap and the general consensus seemed to be that the 3.42 over the 3.08 was > the Truetrac over the G80
How about the 3.42 9.5" vs the 3.42 8.6"??
Last edited:
I would do that swap asap.
If you're doing that much trailer towing over the hills, the 9.5" is a no-brainer. @swathdiver
OP
OP
5StarCustmSolutns
Full Access Member
Thank you for being direct
OP
OP
5StarCustmSolutns
Full Access Member
Thank you!
Just started asking myself "how much better is it really?" Enough to go through the extra hassle of pulling front diff when rear is already wide open and trying sell 10 bolt afterwards etc....
gooffeyguy
Tom
You may also have to have the ECU flashed for the new gear ratio. The transmission shifts and speedometer will be effected. A tuning device like a Diablo or a custom tune can take care of this. I've never seen a gear ratio option in the Tech2 menus, so not sure if that or a dealership would be able to do it.
