Rear Mounted turbo - 2014 GMC Yukon XL (5.3L)

[EnigmaMan]

So after looking around and doing some digging I wanted to produce more power with this 5.3L that is in my Yukon XL and dont want to drop $6K + For the edelbrock supercharger system out of the box and keep it to $1,000 or less.

I have been doing a ton of research on rear mount turbo setups and it has been done successfully on other applications and with the Yukon body there is a ton of room to setup something like this for this application. My plans are a low boost 3-5 PSI with out changing engine internals etc.

Goals are to:
- use factory headers and cross pipe
- install the turbo under the 2nd / 3rd row on the passenger side (shown below)
- Remove the requirements of needing an inter cooler because of distance from the engine bay
- Cooler turbo temperatures

I am not wanting to make 800hp, rebuild the transmission, etc.

I can pickup a turbo for $179, piping (exhaust, intake) $200 and ECU Upgrade $400?? Boost controller etc. I could be much further ahead of the game and open up the doors for others to upgrade their Yukons to get a little more umph out of it with realistic explications of an extra +/- 80hp?

Questions -
1. Would a T3/T4 hybrid turbo be enough for a low boost application with minimal turbo lag?
T04E T3/T4 4-Bolt Manifold Flange Stage III Universal Turbocharger+Oil Feed+Drain Line Turbine A/R .63 $179 on Amazon

2. From my estimations a 2.5-3" Intake pipe should be enough to route to the front engine compartment
3. What ECU programmer supports boost maps?
4. Would I need a new MAF to support boost?

I'll prob end up getting flamed for asking these questions / suggesting these parts, but hey learning in a boosted world, you have to start somewhere!

I familiar with frankenstining GM parts together - with an Olds Cutlass that I have and making them work!


Thanks in advance!!





Example of setup would look something like this

 

[sumo]

I thought about this once but I live in New England. The winter and salt would destroy this setup. I'm happy with my Maggie 1900 tsv. It complete, tunes included and worry free of making parts work or finding a tune that would work with custom setup

 

[EnigmaMan]

True, but it would be easy to create a plate to protect it underneath. I live here in FL and do the really have to worry about that. We are still suffering from a severe snow drought and not really sure when / if we will ever get out next storm

There are some challenges with doing this kind of setup, but there are ways to overcome the one you mentioned.

Biggest unknowns for me are the ones mentioned above.

 

[Jason_S]

A 'canned' type tune that you would get from most programmers would only be good enough to get you to a dyno/real tuner.

No offense, but you clearly need to do more reading and researching. Your questions have been answered countless times before. Google is your friend.

 

[EnigmaMan]

Google will only get you so far from theoretical to practical application.

I was hoping to get at least some useful information like:
Hey the turbo is too small... try something like this ***
You will need a custom tune and that is $$$$$$
Stock injectors wont work for your requirements... etc etc

This way I could have a starting point to start doing research and go from there.

When launching a project you need to define the scope of work, expectations and bounce ideas off of others in order to successfully deliver the project.
In this case, this may not be the correct forum to do this on and I will have to go elsewhere to figure this out.

 

[quest51210]

@EnigmaMan please let me know where you go if you get shot down here. alot of folks don't like to go outside the box here, but I have been wondering the same things you have, although I don't have much experience in this particular area, I am always up for learning something new.

 

[gat0r]

never researched this setup, but quite a few peeps in my area w/ similar setups.
you will lose 1-2 #'s of boost w/ this setup, but still get pretty good power. spooling up boost will be slow.


check out performancetrucks.net
the 'forced induction' subforum

most peeps will start w/ rear setup & then eventually save up & move it up front for more power & faster spool

 

[Jason_S]

With respect to this forum and all of the knowledgable folks here, this is the last place that I would look for info on forced induction LS series engines.

Determine the power that you want to make. You may find that heads, cam, intake and exhaust will get you there, especially if you are not wanting to do much to the rest of the driveline.

Yes, with a forced induction setup, you are looking at time on a dyno. Unless you like rebuilding/replacing engines. You should be able to find a 'canned' tune that will work well enough to get you to the dyno. Personally, we've always over-ridden the waste gate so that it stayed open until we could get it tuned.

If you have the flex fuel engine, your injectors should be able to keep up. Until you decide that you need more "powah!". Your fuel pump will be your limiting factor for fueling.

MAF depends. Some setups keep it, others remove it altogether. Either is possible and works. Some tuners prefer one over the other and will recommend the one they prefer.

A remote setup, will give you turbo lag. The farther you move it from the intake, the more pronounced it will become. That it is a V8 may mitigate it to an extent. The smaller turbo will spool sooner and also mitigate that, but first thoughts on the t3/4, that you linked, is that it is too small for a single turbo setup on a V8.

 

[EnigmaMan]

Thanks for the heads up and the great information that should get me started and moving forward...
I was thinking that due to the e85 injectors it might be able to compensate for the extra "Powa!!" from the turbo's
I remember I had an Edge / Juice tuner on my 2500 Duramax diesel that plugged inline into the ECU and provided all the stats / information along with alerts and warnings etc. Does somebody make that for the this motor / application?

Mustang stock 302 with $150 ebay turbos

Price: US $139.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T04E-T3-T4-...GER-/151273866936?vxp=mtr&hash=item2338a006b8


DNA Motor Inc.
Compressor A/R: 0.48 Manufacturer Part Number:
DNA TBCT04E63SQ
Compressor Inducer / Exducer (mm: 50.50 / 76.00
Placement on Vehicle: Front, Rear, Left, Right
Compressor Trim: 55 Surface
Finish: Cast
Exhaust (Downpipe) Flange:
Standard T3 5-Bolt
Warranty: Yes
Horse Power Increment: 300
Materials: Cast Iron
Turbine A/R: 0.63
Part Brand: DNA Motoring
Turbine Trim: 73
Instruction Included: No
Intake Inlet/ Outlet: 4.00" / 2.50" Inlet / Outlet Size (IN): 4.00" / 2.50"
Exhaust (Turbo Manifold) Flange: Standard T3/ T4 4-Bolt

They are also commonly used in twin turbo applications. In this case those figures would be doubled 3.2L-5.0L engines up to 800HP. Horsepower ratings are generally meant to express the turbochargers maximum airflow capability. Recommended boost pressures are 7psi(.5 Bar) to 21psi(1.5 Bar) and boost pressures should not exceed 30psi(2 Bar).

 

[Jason_S]

First, 5 years ago eBay turbos were hit or miss, but mostly miss. That may have changed, but it is something to keep in mind.

Are you wanting a twin turbo or a single turbo? The turbos that you have linked are too small for a single turbo setup.

EDIT: Yes there are programmers that will give you the same info. That same unit may even work. They will be limited to info that the ECU has, so if you add a turbo, it wont see boost pressure, egt and such.