Ron C
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If you add the DIC panel/trim, you actually get to see more vehicle 'stats' ?
Restoring/Upgrading 2011 Tahoe PPV
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If you add the DIC panel/trim, you actually get to see more vehicle 'stats' ?
PG01
Supporting Member
Yes
Ron C
Full Access Member
PG01
Supporting Member
Pretty sure you get tpms, oil life, engine hrs, and more.
Ron C
Full Access Member
Cool!! I read somewhere it is a real easy installation?
What part number would I be looking for?
CobraKing
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@Ron C this thread may help with the interior parts.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gmt900-07-interior-part-number-thread.27019/
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gmt900-07-interior-part-number-thread.27019/
CobraKing
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Thank you for the info! Has your Tahoe been reliable so far?
-I believe my engine hour meter reset at some point since it only reads 181 hours.
-I'm more worried about burning out my wallet! I really enjoy car maintenance- nothing better than changing the transmission fluid.
-Our OBD scan came back clean.
-I drove the truck about 220 miles and did not run into many drivetrain issues. The struts/shocks are shot and the tires need to be rotated, balanced, and suspension aligned. Oil pressure is right around 40 psi at 1800 rpm I believe. About 30 psi at 500rpm idle. Might have a small oil weep around the pan or just an improperly set filter.
-Thank you for the link regarding your oil pressure issue. I will definitely keep an eye on the oil pressure and make frequent oil changes. I change my oil at least twice a year regardless of mileage. If the oil leak gets bad or we see a drop in pressure, I will drop the pan.
-When I say stickers, I am talking about our corporate logo and contact information.We own and manage real estate. The spotlight will let us check our properties in low-light conditions.
My truck's been quite reliable so far apart from some common GMT900 platform issues (which I'm tackling when I have time).
Your oil pressure is what mine is after changing the O-ring and your engine idle hours are very low. Makes me wonder if your motor was overhauled recently or the vehicle was simply not used much?
Look forward to seeing what your finished vehicle looks like with the graphics, etc!
For your headliner you can use Resolve carpet cleaner and a soft brush to agitate the stains/dirt. Then wipe off the suds with a microfibre.
Last edited:
Ron C
Full Access Member
Work today:
1. I finished flushing the brakes. It took 2.5L!! of fresh brake fluid to totally flush out the system. The brake pedal is now rock solid.
2. I popped the cover off the differential, cleaned, and replaced. The cover was coated with gunk and the magnet had a good number of metal shavings on it. Somewhat disappointing but nothing I haven't seen before. I recommend at least dropping the spare tire because the rear sway bar and suspension brace make it difficult to access the diff cover.
Tomorrow I will fill the differential with new GM fluid and begin the transmission service.
1. I finished flushing the brakes. It took 2.5L!! of fresh brake fluid to totally flush out the system. The brake pedal is now rock solid.
2. I popped the cover off the differential, cleaned, and replaced. The cover was coated with gunk and the magnet had a good number of metal shavings on it. Somewhat disappointing but nothing I haven't seen before. I recommend at least dropping the spare tire because the rear sway bar and suspension brace make it difficult to access the diff cover.
Tomorrow I will fill the differential with new GM fluid and begin the transmission service.
Today:
1. I filled the differential using a small hand pump. 25 minutes, done.
2. I had planned to begin changing the AT fluid. For some reason, I thought there would be a drain plug on the pan. When I realized there was no drain plug, I found that I did not have enough 1/4" tubing to siphon from the metal dipstick tube. Intending to make some progress, I moved to the coolant flush.
Either I missed something or changing the coolant on these trucks is much harder than it should be. When I saw there is no petcock, I tried slowly removing the lower radiator hose. After about 45 tense minutes (slowly removing the hose), I had drained the radiator and recovery tank.
The radiator outlet hose clamp turned out to be a real PITA. I did not have enough room to slide the auto clamp back over the radiator outlet. After about an hour of trying, I went to plan B and installed my old standby worm gear clamp. I angled the worm gear clamp so the screw is accessible with an 8mm socket on a 2' extension. Always have spare worm gear clamps on hand!
Tomorrow: I will fill the coolant, attempt to burp it (not sure how without a radiator fill port), and begin the transmission service. Does anyone make an aftermarket radiator with a fill port and petcock?
1. I filled the differential using a small hand pump. 25 minutes, done.
2. I had planned to begin changing the AT fluid. For some reason, I thought there would be a drain plug on the pan. When I realized there was no drain plug, I found that I did not have enough 1/4" tubing to siphon from the metal dipstick tube. Intending to make some progress, I moved to the coolant flush.
Either I missed something or changing the coolant on these trucks is much harder than it should be. When I saw there is no petcock, I tried slowly removing the lower radiator hose. After about 45 tense minutes (slowly removing the hose), I had drained the radiator and recovery tank.
The radiator outlet hose clamp turned out to be a real PITA. I did not have enough room to slide the auto clamp back over the radiator outlet. After about an hour of trying, I went to plan B and installed my old standby worm gear clamp. I angled the worm gear clamp so the screw is accessible with an 8mm socket on a 2' extension. Always have spare worm gear clamps on hand!
Tomorrow: I will fill the coolant, attempt to burp it (not sure how without a radiator fill port), and begin the transmission service. Does anyone make an aftermarket radiator with a fill port and petcock?
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