Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[George B]

Congrats! Enjoy your freedom.
I look forward to the day I can say I am retired. I hope I still have health enough to do more of what I want.

 

[iamdub]

Well folks it’s Labor Day 2021. Which happens to fall on my birthday, the first time since 2010. Which also happens to be the day I officially retire. I QUIT HAHAHAHA WAAWAAA WAA WAA.

I knew you were old, but not retirement old! Congrats!


Oh- as a member of the working class, paying taxes, etc., "you're welcome"...























...You mooching bastard.

 

[Rocket Man]

I started on swapping the dash today. I see a p/n of 15915972 on the old one which has been replaced by 19331336 if I look up that number. And the 23224747 I’m installing fits perfect so I would say for sure the 23224747 in interchangeable with the 19331336, it’s just an updated part.

I notice on the backside of the crack by the cluster hump it’s very discolored around the crack. Not sure if it’s the cause or result of the crack but the plastic right there seems brittle. If I try to make the crack continue, I can’t. I pulled at both sides and can’t get it to crack more, it’s pliable at the end of that discoloration. Weird. Nothing was spilled on it and this crack has only been there about 3 weeks.
Anyway it’s hot outside so I’ll finish this tomorrow morning.

 

[randeez]

I started on swapping the dash today. I see a p/n of 15915972 on the old one which has been replaced by 19331336 if I look up that number. And the 23224747 I’m installing fits perfect so I would say for sure the 23224747 in interchangeable with the 19331336, it’s just an updated part.

I notice on the backside of the crack by the cluster hump it’s very discolored around the crack. Not sure if it’s the cause or result of the crack but the plastic right there seems brittle. If I try to make the crack continue, I can’t. I pulled at both sides and can’t get it to crack more, it’s pliable at the end of that discoloration. Weird. Nothing was spilled on it and this crack has only been there about 3 weeks.
Anyway it’s hot outside so I’ll finish this tomorrow morning.

got all that free time now

 

[iamdub]

I started on swapping the dash today. I see a p/n of 15915972 on the old one which has been replaced by 19331336 if I look up that number. And the 23224747 I’m installing fits perfect so I would say for sure the 23224747 in interchangeable with the 19331336, it’s just an updated part.

I notice on the backside of the crack by the cluster hump it’s very discolored around the crack. Not sure if it’s the cause or result of the crack but the plastic right there seems brittle. If I try to make the crack continue, I can’t. I pulled at both sides and can’t get it to crack more, it’s pliable at the end of that discoloration. Weird. Nothing was spilled on it and this crack has only been there about 3 weeks.
Anyway it’s hot outside so I’ll finish this tomorrow morning.

Good to know that part number is comparable. I called a few dealers for pricing and they said their system showed the 19331336 as being the proper replacement for the '07-'09, but couldn't say why. I was thinking the difference could be with the radio support area. Since the 2010+ have an updated design with a hard drive and maybe other updates, it may be shaped differently and the dash could've been altered to accommodate. Just my guess. The '4747 was always a little cheaper than the '1336 at all the dealers I spoke with.

Anyway, I ordered a 23224747 last night for $450.46 total including shipping. As I expected, they emailed me this morning to tell me it was backordered and they were cancelling the order and refunding me. I have one more trick up my sleeve to avoid paying $600+ for a dash, but it'll have to wait until next week.

Whatcha think about not only epoxying those reinforced areas but also adding in extra ribs to make the entire panel as rigid as possible? I'm thinking of something like 3/16" round stock or, better yet, strips of 1/2" wide x 1/8" or 1/16" thick aluminum flat stock stood vertically and epoxied into place. Maybe even fill in between them with epoxy. It's obvious that the material the dash is made of is the root problem, with it weakening from age and UV exposure. But, with them all cracking in the same places indicates that support for the plastic after it weakens is what compounds the issue. Surely preventing the panel from flexing would prevent cracks, yeah? Parking inside (which I do) would also go a long way in prevention. UV-reflecting windshield tint and, if it exists, a conditioner for the plastic just like what's available for leather seats to keep them soft and pliable.

 

[Rocket Man]

Good to know that part number is comparable. I called a few dealers for pricing and they said their system showed the 19331336 as being the proper replacement for the '07-'09, but couldn't say why. I was thinking the difference could be with the radio support area. Since the 2010+ have an updated design with a hard drive and maybe other updates, it may be shaped differently and the dash could've been altered to accommodate. Just my guess. The '4747 was always a little cheaper than the '1336 at all the dealers I spoke with.

Anyway, I ordered a 23224747 last night for $450.46 total including shipping. As I expected, they emailed me this morning to tell me it was backordered and they were cancelling the order and refunding me. I have one more trick up my sleeve to avoid paying $600+ for a dash, but it'll have to wait until next week.

Whatcha think about not only epoxying those reinforced areas but also adding in extra ribs to make the entire panel as rigid as possible? I'm thinking of something like 3/16" round stock or, better yet, strips of 1/2" wide x 1/8" or 1/16" thick aluminum flat stock stood vertically and epoxied into place. Maybe even fill in between them with epoxy. It's obvious that the material the dash is made of is the root problem, with it weakening from age and UV exposure. But, with them all cracking in the same places indicates that support for the plastic after it weakens is what compounds the issue. Surely preventing the panel from flexing would prevent cracks, yeah? Parking inside (which I do) would also go a long way in prevention. UV-reflecting windshield tint and, if it exists, a conditioner for the plastic just like what's available for leather seats to keep them soft and pliable.

I didn’t see a good way to add rods like I did with the LT dash I bought, installed and then sold, or flat stock either, without cutting into the ribs they molded into the new design which would defeat the purpose. So I just epoxied where I thought it would help, all between those ribs. I’m getting the windshield tinted this time plus I won’t be leaving it out in the 100* sun anymore. It gets parked under an awning. I just spaced out but I won’t again. Plus the tint should help.

 

[Rocket Man]

got all that free time now

Yup

 

[iamdub]

I didn’t see a good way to add rods like I did with the LT dash I bought, installed and then sold, or flat stock either, without cutting into the ribs they molded into the new design which would defeat the purpose. So I just epoxied where I thought it would help, all between those ribs. I’m getting the windshield tinted this time plus I won’t be leaving it out in the 100* sun anymore. It gets parked under an awning. I just spaced out but I won’t again. Plus the tint should help.

That's what I was wondering. I kinda figured there was stuff in the way or else there'd be more ribbing. I wish we were closer- I'd buy your cracked dash, epoxy the hell out of it on top and bottom then wrap it in fiber-backed upholstery vinyl.

 

[Rocket Man]

I got it all back together, last thing of course was to hook up the battery. Hit the key…nothing. Key fob doesn’t work, ignition switch does nothing, no radio, only interior lights and hvac controls work. When I was starting out, instead of my usual pull the negative battery cable …since it’s so hard to reach being way down behind the bumper, I started to pull the main cable at the mega fuse but it was a PIA and was sparking because it’s hard to get the nut off on mine. Plus then I realized there would be a hot battery lead loose with the way I was doing it so I retightened the nut and then pulled the negative battery terminal. So I’m not sure if I wiped out the BCM or if there’s something else like a pinched wire. I just ordered a BCM from Amazon warehouse for $75 just in case. They only had one, probably a return since it says it has scratches so I bought it before it’s gone. I can return it if I don’t need it. I’m actually hoping that’s not it- The one that’s in it has a custom flash from BT Dieselworks and I’ll bet I need to buy another VIN license for a new one. Oh well, I’ll figure it out.

 

[George B]

^Stories like this^
Make me never want to unplug anything, EVER. It is my luck a simple repair turns into a week long event. Probably because I don’t have a spare vehicle.