Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

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kbuskill

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I'm actually a journeyman glazier. Glass is what I do and I understand tints, colors, light transmittance, etc although I deal with mainly commercial glazing especially towers (shyscrapers). I did do Auto Glass though for years a long time ago. Nearly all of today's Auto Glass is tinted to some extent especially windshields. Only the absolute cheapest cars have any " clear" glass and that would be the side windows. And even that doesn't have 100% light transmittance. Most windshields are tinted at 70-80% factory. If you add a 70% film on top of that, it doesn't stay 70% total, the film blocks 70% of the 70% the windshield was letting in. Here is a good explanation from the window film industry:

"Car window tinting films are measured in visible light transmission levels (also known as VLT), and these levels are represented as a percentage of the visible light transmitted through the windows. So, when you see a window film being referred to as a percentage, this is the VLT. “Let’s do 35% on the back windows,” means 35% of the visible light will pass through the window film.

In the simplest terms, the lower the percentage, the darker the window film will be. A 5% VLT film is very dark as it only lets though 5% of visible light and a 70% film is very light as it lets through 70%. There is, however, one little complication, and that is that windows as installed by the factory do not allow 100% of light to pass through. Most auto makers very slightly tint their glass, usually with a VLT of about 80%.

So how do you calculate the true VLT of your windows?

To calculate the actual VLT of the glass with film applied to it, you need to multiply the VLT of the window tint applied by the VLT of the glass. For example, applying a 5% film to glass with an 80% tint to it, you would multiply 5% x 80% = (0.05×0.80)x100 = 4%. So the glass and window tint would have a combined VLT of 4%."


BTW all glass, even clear, blocks a small amount of light depending on it's composition and thickness among other things. 1/4" clear has a higher % of vlt than 3/4" clear; tempering changes the vlt; any laminated safety glass has a lower vlt than a solid glass, etc.

Edit: so 70% film on a stock 80% windshield is .70 x .80 x100= 56%..

Well I guess if you want to get all technical and shit... lol

I was just saying it's not like guys running 35% on there windshield and telling you it's no big deal. I did it for the heat rejection and to try to keep the already crack prone dash in better shape from the UV rejection.

Thanks for the lesson.
 

00'BlueSteel

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I know. Guys keep trying to convince me to tint my windshield. Don't they know I'm a grumpy old man? Lol. And nobody seems to have replaced a reluctor on the rear, this is the second forum I've asked.

Haha and at one point it sounded like people where saying “tint your windshield it will look better” but then “don’t worry the tints not dark you won’t even notice it.” (Scratching head) Well if you don’t notice it how does it make it look better hahahaha.

I’m not familiar with the reluctor, quick google search showed parts that look like abs tone rings. Small circular gears. And if it’s anything like an ABS tone ring for a cv axle shaft, it should have an area on the axle or hub assembly where it sits and and the sensor should be right above it. For those you just heat the ring up so it expands, slide it on so it will line up with the sensor. Let it cool down so it shrinks and then it will be tight on the axle. Re-install axle and done.


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Rocket Man

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Haha and at one point it sounded like people where saying “tint your windshield it will look better” but then “don’t worry the tints not dark you won’t even notice it.” (Scratching head) Well if you don’t notice it how does it make it look better hahahaha.

I’m not familiar with the reluctor, quick google search showed parts that look like abs tone rings. Small circular gears. And if it’s anything like an ABS tone ring for a cv axle shaft, it should have an area on the axle or hub assembly where it sits and and the sensor should be right above it. For those you just heat the ring up so it expands, slide it on so it will line up with the sensor. Let it cool down so it shrinks and then it will be tight on the axle. Re-install axle and done.


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I have a subscription to alldatadiy which is the same as the factory service manual. It lists the replacement steps and no heat is involved but there are special tools listed for removing and replacing the seal, bearing and reluctor. I know from YouTube that the seal and bearing can be pulled with a normal bearing puller and installed with the appropriate size sockets and a deadblow. And Im pretty sure the reluctor can be removed with the same puller. Those 2 items get set against a back step so the depth is determined- no guessing. When they stop going in, theyre set. But I'm not sure about the reluctor. I have the new one and it's a weird 3-piece design and I can't figure out how the hell the gear part attaches to the axle, I guess it is just a press fit. All data shows a Kent-Moore tool to set it with so I bought a used one off eBay. I'm guessing it will set the depth. I was just hoping someone had done it before so there's no guessing, especially since the one that's in there now isn't spinning with the axle.


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01Konvict

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I know. Guys keep trying to convince me to tint my windshield. Don't they know I'm a grumpy old man? Lol. And nobody seems to have replaced a reluctor on the rear, this is the second forum I've asked.

Just put 50% on it because it reduces oncoming glare from lights plus a better look old man!
 

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