Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[kbuskill]

Talking about the power door lock/window switches... I do have a question.

What's up with the extra plugs that are empty???

I have an LTZ with every option I am aware of except air conditioned seats which wasn't available until 2009.

I don't remember how many empty spots it has but I do remember thinking that there must be other things that will plug in to the back of the switch housing/door module.

I have power DL, power windows, power mirrors, heated mirrors, power folding mirrors, heated seats and still have extra spots.

 

[iamdub]

I've been Googling around and I think it may be built into that switch. The window switch panel just pops out so I'm gonna play with it and report back. I may open it up and look for an antenna circuit. I just hope I don't wipe out my RKE functions.

Whale, this may have worked. I popped the window switch panel out and unplugged everything except the plug with the big power wires at the rearmost of the panel. Then I turned the key on for about 10 seconds. I don't know if this did anything but I figured it would help whatever modules lose their handshake if there is any. I disconnected the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes, reconnected it, turned the key on then plugged everything back in. The "Service TPMS System" and warning light did not come back when I turned the key on to test the windows, locks, mirrors, key fob, etc. I started it- still no warnings. Went for a drive for at least 5 miles- no warnings. I'll give it some time with more drive cycles to verify.

 

[Rocket Man]

Talking about the power door lock/window switches... I do have a question.

What's up with the extra plugs that are empty???

I have an LTZ with every option I am aware of except air conditioned seats which wasn't available until 2009.

I don't remember how many empty spots it has but I do remember thinking that there must be other things that will plug in to the back of the switch housing/door module.

I have power DL, power windows, power mirrors, heated mirrors, power folding mirrors, heated seats and still have extra spots.

I’m not sure but I do know it’s a hassle in the NNBS to add options that weren’t installed at the factory. The wiring harness and switch panels need to be swapped as well as a dealer flash of the bcm.

Whale, this may have worked. I popped the window switch panel out and unplugged everything except the plug with the big power wires at the rearmost of the panel. Then I turned the key on for about 10 seconds. I don't know if this did anything but I figured it would help whatever modules lose their handshake if there is any. I disconnected the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes, reconnected it, turned the key on then plugged everything back in. The "Service TPMS System" and warning light did not come back when I turned the key on to test the windows, locks, mirrors, key fob, etc. I started it- still no warnings. Went for a drive for at least 5 miles- no warnings. I'll give it some time with more drive cycles to verify.

It would be sweet if we did stumble on a way to disable it. People have been trying forever to do that.

 

[iamdub]

It would be sweet if we did stumble on a way to disable it. People have been trying forever to do that.

Yes! I'm not gonna call it confirmed until further testing, but it's looking good so far!

 

[Rocket Man]

I got the 50” bar today. Just messing around a bit with it, trying to figure out how to mount it. I pretty much decided the upper area is going to be a panel; the 26” bar just won’t look right there. I ordered a billet grill that is made for that area and plan on modifying it to a black textured panel or similar. I’ll also trim out the lower opening with that same material around the light bar. A local plastics shop has the material in many thicknesses and any size up to 48 x 60.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I got the 50” bar today. Just messing around a bit with it, trying to figure out how to mount it. I pretty much decided the upper area is going to be a panel; the 26” bar just won’t look right there. I ordered a billet grill that is made for that area and plan on modifying it to a black textured panel or similar. I’ll also trim out the lower opening with that same material around the light bar. A local plastics shop has the material in many thicknesses and any size up to 48 x 60.

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Just as a precaution, I'd run a thin bead of silicone around those light bars, just like the aftermarket lights. I've seen tons of those led bars with moisture and water in them--which eventually kills alot of the leds.

 

[PG01]

The TPMS receiver and Remote door lock/remote start receiver are one in the same and it is located in the drivers rear quarter panel by the power lift gate motor on the SUVs... not sure about the pickups... Just FYI.

 

[Rocket Man]

Got the first bracket done. This mofo is stout. That ***** 1/4” steel, not aluminum.

 

[Rocket Man]

Brackets both done, light test mounted. I'm trimming up the ends of the brackets and painting them now. There's a couple of tabs on the bumper at the top of the light that I just trimmed off that will allow me to adjust it up a tad more. This light is mounted solid.

 

[Rocket Man]

The curve is close to perfect, even the bottom as it sits on the ground as the truck is aired out. I will adjust the angle of the light bar after installing the bumper. The top area between the bumper and light will get a black textured 3/16" thick ABS piece that I will cut to fit and mount with the 4 bolts that are there. That will fill the gap and make it look finished off.