Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[Rocket Man]

If it works for you... don't fix it!!!

I'm just worried about getting new wheels. Since it was tubbed for 28's, and there's a bunch of NNBS running big wheels, it makes me want to get some soooooo bad.

Tell me about it. I forked over $6000 and waited 3 months, then when they came I didn’t even think about checking the backspacing, I just had the tire store mount up the tires. I installed them and noticed they were REAL close to the rear bed lip but I thought I’d try them anyway. First drive they were
fine, then I thought I’d better try cornering hard and that’s when the truck leaned enough to scrape a lip. I knew I was covered though since they weren’t what I ordered but still, it took another month for them to look at them, decide they needed to make new ones, and ship them back to me. That sucked big time because the truck sat on blocks waiting. Mines tubbed for 28’s too, it doesn’t really matter if you run 26’s or 28’s the overall diameter is the same , there’s just less rubber for a cushion. I wouldn’t run 8’s here due to the roads. I would die if I bent a $1500 dollar rim that takes 2 -3 months to get.

 

[iamdub]

In my mind, again I could be wrong, this is negating the advantages of a parallel 4-link as you lose the ability for each side to move independently. A triangulated 4-link makes much more sense or even 3-link.

Your mind is correct. Since both sides are connected, it's not an independent 4-link. It's a 3-link with a really wide mounting configuration for that third link. It's not "wrong", just not as optimal as a 4-link. The rotational movement is controlled by the flex in the bushings (very minimum) rather than the intended articulation of the bushings. With how such a truck is normally driven, it's inherent design flaws are minimized and will likely never be a problem.

 

[Rocket Man]

Your mind is correct. Since both sides are connected, it's not an independent 4-link. It's a 3-link with a really wide mounting configuration for that third link. It's not "wrong", just not as optimal as a 4-link. The rotational movement is controlled by the flex in the bushings (very minimum) rather than the intended articulation of the bushings. With how such a truck is normally driven, it's inherent design flaws are minimized and will likely never be a problem.

Technically you’re correct since a parallel 4-link has parallel links as viewed from above and not from the side like mine. It’s not optimal, but does allow for a narrowed rear end with wide wheels, room for an air tank and fuel cell etc. It works pretty good but wouldn’t be my choice if I was designing it.

 

[Rocket Man]

I got the window weatherstrips painted yesterday and installed today. Much better. I figured out why they were bent- the paint shop removed them when they did a color change on the truck and they’re not real easy to R&R so they probably messed them up when doing that.

 

[yates ™]

@Rocket Man I wasn't talking smack just talking out loud on it. I just think it is a really odd design with other options out there to do basically the same thing. That is why I think it may have been a correction. Not that it is a bad correction.

 

[Rocket Man]

@Rocket Man I wasn't talking smack just talking out loud on it. I just think it is a really odd design with other options out there to do basically the same thing. That is why I think it may have been a correction. Not that it is a bad correction.

No problem. I have tried looking it up in Max Fish’s book “Air Suspension Design Volume 1 Link-Type Rear Suspension “ and it’s not even listed so it’s obviously All Star Customs’ own idea. I know they built a shitload of these trucks by the time they did mine so it must have worked or they wouldn’t have kept using it. It does seem to be fine, it’s different but there’s a million designs out there and not every one fits into a box.

 

[Rocket Man]

I decided I’m tired of seeing pics of trucks like mine and seeing most of them with big ass Wilwoods. I just saw another one on FB a few minutes ago, so I took out the paperwork when I bought the kit for The Beast and looked up the seller, www.accesspeed.com. I have been looking for the best deal online, through Amazon and EBay and just general searches and the best I had found was an eBay seller who had the entire kit ( 16”/14.25” rotors, calipers, brackets, hardware, stainless Wilwood lines that you need to buy, fluid) for $4000 plus $100 shipping. Accesspeed had the same kit for $3900 and free shipping. I decided to pull the trigger. I’m fighting the Covid-19 epidemic by stimulating the economy and sheltering in my truck.

 

[kbuskill]

I decided I’m tired of seeing pics of trucks like mine and seeing most of them with big ass Wilwoods. I just saw another one on FB a few minutes ago, so I took out the paperwork when I bought the kit for The Beast and looked up the seller, www.accesspeed.com. I have been looking for the best deal online, through Amazon and EBay and just general searches and the best I had found was an eBay seller who had the entire kit ( 16”/14.25” rotors, calipers, brackets, hardware, stainless Wilwood lines that you need to buy, fluid) for $4000 plus $100 shipping. Accesspeed had the same kit for $3900 and free shipping. I decided to pull the trigger. I’m fighting the Covid-19 epidemic by stimulating the economy and sheltering in my truck.

Doesn't the Machine already have stainless brake lines on it?

 

[Rocket Man]

Doesn't the Machine already have stainless brake lines on it?

Yessir but Wilwood requires different ones. M12 IF female fittings on the caliper side whatever that is. Of course they sell them for about $80 per axle. I don’t think you can buy a set anywhere else unless you have them made.

 

[NathanJax]

How did you order your rear Willwoods? Obviously can't order them for your trucks year... just told them the year your new rear end came from?