rolled 300k today on the tahoe

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Chads93GT

Full Access Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
88
Reaction score
71
Location
St. Louis, MO
Not really a techy thread, but I figured I would let you know what to expect at 300k miles. Most expensive fix's today are a fuel pump that went out about 130 or 140k miles ago, both front hubs went bad around 130 and 170k miles, other than that, brake pads, rotors, lots and lots of tires, oil changes when the computer light pops up, greasing the front end, ac compressor went bad around 180k miles as well. Other than that, everything works except the rear windshield washer motor, as that went bad right after i bought it and never saw the sense in fixing it.

never touched teh trans of the differentials. ;)

just a FYI.

dont be scared of buying high mileage trucks that are in other wise good shape.

edit: its a 2001, and i bought it 3.5 years ago with 100k on it ;)
 

fatnlowtahoe504

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,950
Reaction score
16
Location
New Orleans, LA / Hattiesburg, MS
holy shit balls, yea im at prob 120k now and i never had any problems besides both hubs going bad, steering pump, and idler pulley my view is that if you take care of it and not dog it, it will last forever
 

Ridin Solo

Brain Ninja
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Posts
495
Reaction score
47
Location
Texas
what happens if a hub goes bad and you don't fix it?? i'm curious because my grand am has a hub on it thats bad, or so i've been told and i don't have $$ to fix it and i wanna know what risks, if any, i take by driving it like that.
 

yooformula

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Posts
271
Reaction score
1
Location
Milwaukee, Wi.
what happens if a hub goes bad and you don't fix it?? i'm curious because my grand am has a hub on it thats bad, or so i've been told and i don't have $$ to fix it and i wanna know what risks, if any, i take by driving it like that.

if it starts to crunch or make loud noises, change that shit. worse case is the hub/bearing separate and you more than likely lose a wheel.
 

tx tahoe z71

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Posts
201
Reaction score
3
Location
Houston, TX
Solid! I just passed 100k on mine not too long ago, this gives me hope that I have another ten years to go!
 

Ridin Solo

Brain Ninja
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Posts
495
Reaction score
47
Location
Texas
if it starts to crunch or make loud noises, change that shit. worse case is the hub/bearing separate and you more than likely lose a wheel.

hahaha that definitely wouldn't be a good thing.. thanks for answering! i kinda figured that was the case but i wasn't 100%.. it'll be sitting in the drive way while i drive my yukon until i can get it fixed then..
 

Grocery Getter

A guy with a truck.
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
745
Reaction score
13
Location
Phoenix, Az
Hell yeah! Love to hear this stuff...I just rolled past 100K and can only hope to clock 300K!!! Maybe I'll have it paid off by then...hahahah
 
OP
OP
C

Chads93GT

Full Access Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
88
Reaction score
71
Location
St. Louis, MO
I forgot, 4k miles ago the idler pully siezed up and the belt spun around the plasic pully till it melted down to the bearing hub. Only then did the belt start squealing but in all actuality, it probably only took a couple minutes. It was only 30 bucks from autozone for a new one. I was 90 miles from home when it happend, only takes 3 15mm bolts to change too, very easy.

As for the hubs, the hub is the bearing assembly that keeps the front wheel on the front of the vehicle. The hub bolts to the suspension assembly on these trucks. Basically you have an inner and outer hub, with a central bearing assembly on all hubs. When the hub goes out, the bearings get ground into dust, literally, and that my friend, is the only thing holding the hub together.

In other words, when the hub goes bad, you have a very limited amount of miles at best, till it completely falls apart. At that time your caliper brackets and caliper are the only thing holding the wheel on the vehicle, due to the rotor being bolted to the hub. They can't take that cant of stress and if you have a total hub failure, your $150 hub (not including labor as I do all my own work) job just turned into a new caliper, caliper bracket, rotor and any lawsuit you get when your wheel flys off your vehicle and either hits a bystander on the side of the road, or smashes into someone elses vehicle.

do yourself a favor, dont be the ******* that thinks he can drive it until it fails, THEN fix it. Get it changed out now, else you will be stranded out in the middle of no where. My first hub failure i was able to drive home then change out. The 2nd the bearings spit out all over the hotel parking lot and i had to change it on the spot. driving it 20 feet further could have caused the caliper/bracket to snap off and cause even more costly repairs. Fix it asap. You will know its going out on your tahoe when the ABS/Traction sensor lights come on, cruise is shut down, and you hear loud griding/crunching noises.

4x4 hubs are the same way, its just a little harder to get one of them off.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
133,256
Posts
1,882,221
Members
98,290
Latest member
Stevenfigu23
Top