Rough idle/ shuddering in idle.

[j91z28d1]

you don't remove the broken manifold bolts to install the clamp. it's that ground that makes it hard. you can't hardly get wrench on it except a swivel head ratchet wrench and at an angle. the bolt tq is almost 40 lbs at the factory before 20 years of corrosion.

there's just no leverage. it's the only hard part of the install the rest is just fiddly. I had to stick a pry bar thru the open end of the ***** and against something I don't remember and pull till I thought I was going to break the wrench.

 

[wjburken]

They look so hardddd

Remember….there is no Easy Button

 

[solli5pack]

you don't remove the broken manifold bolts to install the clamp. it's that ground that makes it hard. you can't hardly get wrench on it except a swivel head ratchet wrench and at an angle. the bolt tq is almost 40 lbs at the factory before 20 years of corrosion.

there's just no leverage. it's the only hard part of the install the rest is just fiddly. I had to stick a pry bar thru the open end of the ***** and against something I don't remember and pull till I thought I was going to break the wrench.

Would it help to remove the coils and valve cover? I'm about to do one on my Yukon tomorrow. Also it seems the Dorman bolt fits into the manifold hole so how does it push down on the manifold?

 

[j91z28d1]

Would it help to remove the coils and valve cover? I'm about to do one on my Yukon tomorrow. Also it seems the Dorman bolt fits into the manifold hole so how does it push down on the manifold?

it probably would help to pull the valve cover. I didn't thou. let us know what you use to break that bolt loose.

all the broken off bolts I've see don't sick out of the manifold, so it OK to press on the hole. if you mean in lines up and goes into the hole that's not right, it should just hit the manifold itself.

I didn't get the Dorman one, I just got a random Amazon one, but if you can tell form the pic, there's a flange nut on the end of the bolt that pushes against the manifold. if yours happens to line up perfectly and into the hole, you might need to add a not or something on it.

 

[Fless]

it probably would help to pull the valve cover. I didn't thou. let us know what you use to break that bolt loose.

all the broken off bolts I've see don't sick out of the manifold, so it OK to press on the hole. if you mean in lines up and goes into the hole that's not right, it should just hit the manifold itself.

I didn't get the Dorman one, I just got a random Amazon one, but if you can tell form the pic, there's a flange nut on the end of the bolt that pushes against the manifold. if yours happens to line up perfectly and into the hole, you might need to add a not or something on it.

View attachment 404592

If I was doing this I'd also add a jam nut on the bolt above the bracket.

 

[solli5pack]

it probably would help to pull the valve cover. I didn't thou. let us know what you use to break that bolt loose.

all the broken off bolts I've see don't sick out of the manifold, so it OK to press on the hole. if you mean in lines up and goes into the hole that's not right, it should just hit the manifold itself.

I didn't get the Dorman one, I just got a random Amazon one, but if you can tell form the pic, there's a flange nut on the end of the bolt that pushes against the manifold. if yours happens to line up perfectly and into the hole, you might need to add a not or something on it.

View attachment 404592

I got the Dorman 917-107 and it didn't come with the flange nut. It came with three bolts. Two for the back of the head and one that threads thru the bracket and it looks like it would thread right into the head. I'm going to get a flange bolt to put on so it will push down on the manifold. My head bolt is broke and recessed into the head. If I wasn't so weary from my Suburban AFM delete I would pull the head and do it right.

 

[j91z28d1]

I got the Dorman 917-107 and it didn't come with the flange nut. It came with three bolts. Two for the back of the head and one that threads thru the bracket and it looks like it would thread right into the head. I'm going to get a flange bolt to put on so it will push down on the manifold. My head bolt is broke and recessed into the head. If I wasn't so weary from my Suburban AFM delete I would pull the head and do it right.

I think you'll be fine.. these seem to work well. I've checked mine a few times and no leak I can find. I'm definitely not pulling a head unless I really really need to. I'd probably try 3 different ways of getting it out before resorting to a head haha.

 

[OR VietVet]

When I did mine, I cringed because the only quick thing available was Dorman. I installed them and they have been fine for 2 years now.

 

[donjetman]

Would it help to remove the coils and valve cover? I'm about to do one on my Yukon tomorrow. Also it seems the Dorman bolt fits into the manifold hole so how does it push down on the manifold?

I didn't
Here is what I did use/do w/pics almost 5 yrs and 60k ago and still going strong at 190k:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...-cold-berryman-b12.120184/page-2#post-1469315
and
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/exhaust-manifold-bolts-no-bueno.108605/page-3#post-1296439

 

[solli5pack]

I hate Dorman for even inventing this thing!!! LOL!!! I got the old bolt off and bracket is on with the top bolt in. Trying to get the lower bolt on now. I took valve cover off, jacked up the trans and removed the heat shield..You definitely need patience and some beers with this job...