My plan is to set the axis as follows:
The caster and camber with the help of an appropriate bulb measuring gauge and turning the front wheels from 20° to 20° degrees.
The Toe with the help of a cord stretched parallel to the right and left side of the car.
These brackets are used for this purpose, which I then attach to the wheels.
The problem is, that at different cars have different track spacing (i hope that is the right translation in Englisch) so that it's not easy to find the correct parallelity.
Therefore are the hooks below. They are used to attach plumb weights to measure the corresponding track spacing on the flor when the car is on a carlift.
The threaded rods with the knurled screws are used to take into account and adjust the track spacing and attach the meassure cord.
On the facilities are fold-out rulers which then run under the line to measure whether the wheels are parallel to the line. I set the distance between the measuring sticks to 57.3 cm, which, according to the rules of calculating triangles, means that one millimeter on the ruler corresponds to exactly one degree of change in toe.
Next week I will try that on my Chrysler LeBaron convertible and make photos. I just plant that theoretically and I hope that it works.
I am sad that today's Garage in Germany are all very expensive and full of unmotivated idiots witch don't do their work like they should.
How often I returned a car from wheel alignment, payed 150€ which is approximate the same in dollars and the steering wheel was not equal...
A while ago I received the car from my wife from wheel alignment and I took it on my lift to check and found out that they didn't tighten the screws of the steering rods...