Shift motor wont line up

[Fless]

Just an opinion, but I don't think there's a need to continue to quote and answer the same question in different posts. From a personal perspective it makes this difficult to read.

A cheap OBD reader is not going to read chassis codes.

NOTE: If you can turn the rear driveshaft by hand, you should be able to rotate it slightly so as to be able to turn the TCase shaft to change TCase modes with a pair of channel locks.

 

[TJ Baker]

Depending on what your "cheap OBD" device is you 'may' be able to read any or all codes in the vehicle.

It's all in the choice of app or software.

With a $15 bluetooth OBD adapter and the right phone app you can absolutely read your 2003 GM vehicles TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) codes.

That said it doesn't seem like a code is your current issue.

 

[Fless]

Depending on what your "cheap OBD" device is you 'may' be able to read any or all codes in the vehicle.

It's all in the choice of app or software.

With a $15 bluetooth OBD adapter and the right phone app you can absolutely read your 2003 GM vehicles TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) codes.

That said it doesn't seem like a code is your current issue.

I stand corrected; it's the software that can read those codes. I was thinking about a standalone reader, not a Bluetooth dongle and an app.

 

[TJ Baker]

I stand corrected; it's the software that can read those codes. I was thinking about a standalone reader, not a Bluetooth dongle and an app.

I agree in that an inexpensive "code reader" is unlikely to read much beyond the usual engine and emissions systems related codes.

An ELM type device either bluetooth or wifi or even wired USB with a good phone app can read and reset codes from most modules.

Those with good techy skills can even go hands on and use just a "dumb terminal" app and do the communications themselves. That route is most definitely NOT for "the masses" though

 

[pauly]

Depending on what your "cheap OBD" device is you 'may' be able to read any or all codes in the vehicle.

It's all in the choice of app or software.

With a $15 bluetooth OBD adapter and the right phone app you can absolutely read your 2003 GM vehicles TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) codes.

That said it doesn't seem like a code is your current issue.

It's a $15 hyper though from Walmart.
Thank you for the tip. I didn't know that . That's actually pretty cool. I'm going to have to get a little more educated on that and try that out.

 

[PatDTN]

I've had pretty good luck with the "Chevrosys" app on my android phone..

 

[pauly]

Just an opinion, but I don't think there's a need to continue to quote and answer the same question in different posts. From a personal perspective it makes this difficult to read.

A cheap OBD reader is not going to read chassis codes.

NOTE: If you can turn the rear driveshaft by hand, you should be able to rotate it slightly so as to be able to turn the TCase shaft to change TCase modes with a pair of channel locks.

Which question and answer, and where are the different posts? I'm sorry if I posted something difficult for you to read that certainly wasn't my intention. I know my OBD sensor won't do very much that's the whole reason I mentioned it was just a cheap one. Are you saying to turn the drive shaft with one hand while turning the gear with channel locks with the other hand at the same time because
When I turn the drive shaft the gear does not turn the output shaft turns and wouldn't putting my channel locks on the gear smash the points where's the channel locks
contact the gear which would prevent me from getting the motor on even if it is lined up correctly? Shouldn't I wrap the teeth of the gear or the teeth on the channel locks with like tape or something?

 

[pauly]

That's what I've been doing over and over again but I tried all the positions in neutral because that's where I read somewhere that that's the way you're supposed to do it but I would definitely give it a shot the way you say to do it... When I get it right will the encoder motor slide all the way on and touch the transfer case without the gasket in? Sometimes I seem to get it where it kind of goes on a little further than other times like the gears are actually lined up right and going in but when I put the gasket in I tighten it up where it's pretty tight like probably close to 10 foot pounds (on my way to the 15 foot pounds it's supposed to be) and I can feel the gasket on top and see the gasket on the bottom and there's still quite a bit of space where I can move the gasket back and forth it's still loose in there and that's when a chicken out and take it back off again I know if I keep tightening and it's not lined up right I'm going to pop that little dust cover or whatever it is off I did that on the first one I had

Should the shift motor slide all the way on to where it contacts the transfer case without the gasket?

 

[pauly]

That's what I've been doing over and over again but I tried all the positions in neutral because that's where I read somewhere that that's the way you're supposed to do it but I would definitely give it a shot the way you say to do it... When I get it right will the encoder motor slide all the way on and touch the transfer case without the gasket in? Sometimes I seem to get it where it kind of goes on a little further than other times like the gears are actually lined up right and going in but when I put the gasket in I tighten it up where it's pretty tight like probably close to 10 foot pounds (on my way to the 15 foot pounds it's supposed to be) and I can feel the gasket on top and see the gasket on the bottom and there's still quite a bit of space where I can move the gasket back and forth it's still loose in there and that's when a chicken out and take it back off again I know if I keep tightening and it's not lined up right I'm going to pop that little dust cover or whatever it is off I did that on the first one I had

Should the shift motor slide all the way on to where it contacts the transfer case without the gasket?

 

[pauly]

That's what I've been doing over and over again but I tried all the positions in neutral because that's where I read somewhere that that's the way you're supposed to do it but I would definitely give it a shot the way you say to do it... When I get it right will the encoder motor slide all the way on and touch the transfer case without the gasket in? Sometimes I seem to get it where it kind of goes on a little further than other times like the gears are actually lined up right and going in but when I put the gasket in I tighten it up where it's pretty tight like probably close to 10 foot pounds (on my way to the 15 foot pounds it's supposed to be) and I can feel the gasket on top and see the gasket on the bottom and there's still quite a bit of space where I can move the gasket back and forth it's still loose in there and that's when a chicken out and take it back off again I know if I keep tightening and it's not lined up right I'm going to pop that little dust cover or whatever it is off I did that on the first one I had

Should the shift motor slide all the way on to where it contacts the transfer case without the gasket?

I myself have not seen a T-case slip into Neutral. Broken part? Sure, it might seem like Neutral. Are you sure that the trans is actually feeding power out to the T-Case? I have seen many more times where the issue was trans related. Your broken wires may be coincidental, as all was working prior to discovery. When in Reverse, the trans pressure is highest. I'm not convinced something didn't break... Sunshell perhaps? Your idea to safely put the rear on stands for demonstration can't hurt anything, if done safely and we're talking about slightly over idle speed. Hope others jump in to the conversation.

What do you mean by demonstration? I explained why I put the rest on stands. I didn't say anything's about demonstration. And why are you talking about idle speed. You're not all there are you?