Short vs long term fix for low oil pressure on 6.2

[WeekenderNutJob]

Update: Dropped the oil pan, replaced the pickup tube o-ring, which was not flexible at all, and cracked it into 10 pieces with any movement....and sure enough it fixed the oil pressure. Now the pressure is back up to about 20+ psi at a warm idle....of course now I have a bigger oil leak than before...likely the valley pan gasket is next weekend now that I have higher pressure. I already replaced the oil cooler cover gasket...which was also leaking. Just got some UV die to try and find the next major leak. Coming down both sides of the back of the engine. I already examined the inspection cover and it does not look like the rear main seal. Going to look at the flywheel position sensor or the oil level sensor next before the valley pan, but since its both sides I assume its near the top, and I already replaced the oil-sending unit and can feel its dry so I assume the back of the valley pan next. Thanks, everyone for the help.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@weekendernutjob Very nice man, how did you go about getting the oil pan by the front diff?

 

[jdwood1111]

Update: Dropped the oil pan, replaced the pickup tube o-ring, which was not flexible at all, and cracked it into 10 pieces with any movement....and sure enough it fixed the oil pressure. Now the pressure is back up to about 20+ psi at a warm idle....of course now I have a bigger oil leak than before...likely the valley pan gasket is next weekend now that I have higher pressure. I already replaced the oil cooler cover gasket...which was also leaking. Just got some UV die to try and find the next major leak. Coming down both sides of the back of the engine. I already examined the inspection cover and it does not look like the rear main seal. Going to look at the flywheel position sensor or the oil level sensor next before the valley pan, but since its both sides I assume its near the top, and I already replaced the oil-sending unit and can feel its dry so I assume the back of the valley pan next. Thanks, everyone for the help.

I am chasing a similar oil leak it sounds like. How long did it take you do drop the pan? Did you do it at home without a lift? Mine appears to be right at the driver side back oil pan gasket corner. Maybe the oil cooler but that was replaced but I may try and change it.

 

[Geotrash]

I am chasing a similar oil leak it sounds like. How long did it take you do drop the pan? Did you do it at home without a lift? Mine appears to be right at the driver side back oil pan gasket corner. Maybe the oil cooler but that was replaced but I may try and change it.

I've dropped the oil pan on my 2012 3x now and it's time consuming but not difficult. Jack stands are sufficient. Drop the crossmember, remove the bolts holding the steering rack to the frame and let it hang by the tie rods, remove the pax side front diff mounting bolts and the 6 bolts holding the CV half shaft to the axle flange and let it hang down, remove the dipstick tube and voila! You're done. It's easier if you remove the pax front wheel and fender liner because you'll have easier access to the dipstick tube, but I can do the job now in 2.5-3 hours for R&R. Air impact wrench for the crossmember, steering rack and diff mount bolts is key to saving time.

All of that said, I'll virtually guarantee that your leak in that location is either the oil cooler line mounting plate gasket or the o-ring around the plug on the back end of it. If yours doesn't have the oil cooler lines then it's the block-off plate gasket. If that was already replaced, then it was probably done with the Fel-Pro gasket and that's one of the few gaskets from them that isn't worth a shit. OEM, Mahle or Dorman gasket only for that spot. I used a Fel-Pro on my 2012 the first time around and couldn't get it to seal to save my life. Ended up stripping out one of the bolt holes trying to get it tight enough. A helicoil and some profanity later and I was back in business but with a Dorman gasket that time, which is a clone of the OEM design. The Fel-Pro design is different, hence the problem.

 

[WeekenderNutJob]

I am chasing a similar oil leak it sounds like. How long did it take you do drop the pan? Did you do it at home without a lift? Mine appears to be right at the driver side back oil pan gasket corner. Maybe the oil cooler but that was replaced but I may try and change it.

I think all in all it took me about 5 hours but over 2 days so not as bad. I just did it at home on my back no special tools or a lift. I wish... I did not have to end up dropping the entire front differential. I just unbolted one side and supported it with a jack and supported the rack and pinion. I used this video:

 

[nickcm]

@weekendernutjob I don't know if this applies to the AWD model but I heard that you can remove the oil pan without dropping the front diff entirely

You don't need to remove or drop the front diff entirely. I have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L. What I did was had the front tires on ramps, parking brake set (this is an important step, do NOT skip), drain the oil and remove filter, unbolt the oil pan (this is a pain but can be done easier now than later), unbolt the 4 bolts for the steering rack & pinion to allow it to hang (oil lines are in the way of the oil pan dropping), unbolt the front diff by removing the four bolts and having a jack support the diff, then remove the 6 bolts on the front right passenger axle holding it to the diff and separate. Once separated, lower the jack slowly and then you will have enough room to remove the oil pain by wiggling it out. I did everything at 240,000 miles. Oil pressure relief block in oil pan, new sump, new oil pump, new crank sprocket, new chain guide, new timing chain, new cam sprocket, new vvt valve, new vvt magnet, new cam position sensor, new oil sending unit and filter, new a/c belt & serpentine belt with pulleys. It took two full days for tear down and install with two runs to AutoZone to rent specialty tools, so it can be done on a weekend if you don't break or damage anything.