SOLVED - Big 3 upgrade, EVERY warning light on immediately after.

[Tyrant]

I appreciate the responses thus far.

I replaced 3 wires, routed them exactly as they were from the factory (with the sole exception of the fact that I reversed my battery's direction for ease of access), and left the smaller secondary ground wire intact. I have continuity where I should, voltage measures as it should, and I've re-checked each of the 3 repeatedly just to be thorough.

This is why I opted to wait before adding additional grounds or tackling the alternator to distribution block wiring; I wanted to eliminate excess variables in the event that something went wrong.

Unless the decreased resistance from replacing extremely corroded wiring directly damaged something, this shouldn't be the problem. It's frustrating, because I've done this a dozen or so times with other vehicles, and have even made full wire harnesses for street and track vehicles in the past...

 

[Tyrant]

 

[Tyrant]

Only the one, although the factory routing of the wiring is pretty straight-forward.

3 wires of varying length were replaced, routed in identical fashion to the corroded 4 awg wire that you see in this last photo.

 

[Tyrant]

I didn't get "creative" with the routing; I plan to add additional grounds from the block to the body on both sides of the bay, however I elected not to change anything but the diameter of the wire initially in the event that something like this occurred. I'm pretty conservative with my modifications, experience has taught me not to tackle more than 1 project at a time.

 

[Tyrant]

I'm currently working through the TSB from GM (08-07-30-021G), chasing down the various pins and grounds, cleaning contacts and re-applying dielectric grease where necessary. I'll replace all of the J-Case fuses just in case one of them has failed without obviously appearing to... I replaced every mini blade fuse proactively when this started, since I had a few hundred of them on hand to begin with.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Don’t get me wrong. This problem wasn’t there till you messed with it. Therefore whatever you messed with CAUSED said problem. It’s frustrating I get it. Your overlooking the obvious.

 

[Tyrant]

I pulled every connector and ground from the rear doors to the rear bumper and wire brushed contact points, then slathered dielectric grease on the connector for the fuel pump control module. The CEL is gone, it revs to redline in all gears and shifts perfectly - the U0109 code is still present after clearing, which is odd.

 

[iamdub]

I did pull and replace each fuse of the mini blade fuses with new ones just to be safe, while I switched the J-case fuses with others (known working) to test them. I didn't replace the J-case fuses outright, but I am thinking it couldn't hurt at this point...

Well, damn.

 

[Tyrant]

Don’t get me wrong. This problem wasn’t there till you messed with it. Therefore whatever you messed with CAUSED said problem. It’s frustrating I get it. Your overlooking the obvious.

I get it, the logic follows - the problem is, the 3 wires I replaced would cause EVERYTHING to fail if any 1 of the 3 wasn't functioning.

I could rip out the 1/0 wire and replace it with extraordinarily over priced "factory" 4 awg and it wouldn't magically solve anything, because current is flowing and voltage is ~12 when off and ~14.2-14.7 at idle, while resistance is negligible.

It's stupid because power is so simple - if either of the 2 charge or 1 ground wires weren't functioning, it wouldn't start (let alone run and drive for 300+ miles).

I do have a few more connectors to blow out and grease; the previous owner ripped the splash shields out, so they're pretty dusty and it can't hurt to try them before I throw the new shields on.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Ok. Good luck my man.