Hello all; this will be a bit of a lengthy post, so I'll try to keep it concise.
'08 Suburban, listed in my signature. After some rough starts this past winter (Wyoming, -20° F), I decided to tackle the big 3 and go with a better battery. I immediately swapped the battery out for an appropriately sized AGM from Interstate - No problems whatsoever thus far. Installed back in February.
This month, I preemptively tackled the charging system in preparation for an audio upgrade.
Parts list:
- 1/0 AWG pure copper wire (battery wire, marine rated), which I then sleeved with a high temp sleeve (think tech flex).
- Tinned copper lugs, crimped w/ a hydraulic crimper and covered with adhesive lined shrink tubing at all joints.
- "Military style battery terminals" (Multiple attachment points, ideal for my goals)
Process:
1. I replaced both of the factory "hot" wires from the battery with 1/0 AWG, attached to the factory locations (starter and factory fused distribution block), trimmed the cover for the distribution block for adequate coverage and a snug fit.
2. I replaced the factory ground wire (large diameter) that runs directly to the block, yet decided to re-use the smaller wire that runs down by the front end. I replaced what I assume to be the voltage/current sensor in the factory location along this same ground wire.
3. Due to prior experiences, I tend to tackle these projects incrementally, so I did NOT elect to add additional grounding points yet so that I could tackle issues without introducing extra variables. After I sort this out, I'll be adding 2 additional grounds and replacing the distribution block to alternator wire w/ an additional 1/0 run.
Result:
WAY smoother starts in warm and cold weather, no odd dimming issues with lights or audio system use, and consistent voltage hovering right at 14.5 (per the gauge, corroborated w/ my scantool).
Problem:
EVERY dash light came on after the wiring was replaced. ABS, brake warning light, CEL, Traction control, and 4WD Service.
I have used 2 scantools (1 bluetooth model and 1 INNOVA 5210 v1 bi-directional) to assess and clear codes, to no avail. The CEL code clears, then returns shortly after... The others immediately return.
Codes:
U0102 - "Lost Communication w/ TCCM" (4WD) - Important note, ALL 4WD options work as expected, with the exception of 4 LOW. The rotary dial illuminates and it engages consistently as it always has.
U0109 - "Lost Communication w/ Fuel Pump Control Module" - This is intermittent, the truck starts and runs like a champ every time. I DID notice that there appears to be a missing relay in the primary fuse panel, which is listed as "FUEL PUMP" on the diagram - it is sandwiched between 31/33 and PRK LAMP, this has never been present so long as I have owned the vehicle.
ABS would not read with either scanner. After seeing the aforementioned codes, I cleared them multiple times and have checked every single fuse within the vehicle. The only fuse that was blown was the trailer pigtail for towing; I replaced it proactively, even though I seldom tow with this.
It has run reliably and driven as usual for ~1 week, approximately 250 miles. I did notice yesterday, while entering an on-ramp to an 80 MPH Interstate, that it would not rev beyond 2,000 RPMs in 4th gear, and wouldn't downshift on full throttle. I suspect that this is a different issue, as it only manifested the one time. There is still plenty of torque and it accelerates fine otherwise.
Thanks for reading my long-winded post; I'm hopeful that somebody will have some suggestions for me. I tackled all of the troubleshooting that I felt was prudent before throwing up a post.
'08 Suburban, listed in my signature. After some rough starts this past winter (Wyoming, -20° F), I decided to tackle the big 3 and go with a better battery. I immediately swapped the battery out for an appropriately sized AGM from Interstate - No problems whatsoever thus far. Installed back in February.
This month, I preemptively tackled the charging system in preparation for an audio upgrade.
Parts list:
- 1/0 AWG pure copper wire (battery wire, marine rated), which I then sleeved with a high temp sleeve (think tech flex).
- Tinned copper lugs, crimped w/ a hydraulic crimper and covered with adhesive lined shrink tubing at all joints.
- "Military style battery terminals" (Multiple attachment points, ideal for my goals)
Process:
1. I replaced both of the factory "hot" wires from the battery with 1/0 AWG, attached to the factory locations (starter and factory fused distribution block), trimmed the cover for the distribution block for adequate coverage and a snug fit.
2. I replaced the factory ground wire (large diameter) that runs directly to the block, yet decided to re-use the smaller wire that runs down by the front end. I replaced what I assume to be the voltage/current sensor in the factory location along this same ground wire.
3. Due to prior experiences, I tend to tackle these projects incrementally, so I did NOT elect to add additional grounding points yet so that I could tackle issues without introducing extra variables. After I sort this out, I'll be adding 2 additional grounds and replacing the distribution block to alternator wire w/ an additional 1/0 run.
Result:
WAY smoother starts in warm and cold weather, no odd dimming issues with lights or audio system use, and consistent voltage hovering right at 14.5 (per the gauge, corroborated w/ my scantool).
Problem:
EVERY dash light came on after the wiring was replaced. ABS, brake warning light, CEL, Traction control, and 4WD Service.
I have used 2 scantools (1 bluetooth model and 1 INNOVA 5210 v1 bi-directional) to assess and clear codes, to no avail. The CEL code clears, then returns shortly after... The others immediately return.
Codes:
U0102 - "Lost Communication w/ TCCM" (4WD) - Important note, ALL 4WD options work as expected, with the exception of 4 LOW. The rotary dial illuminates and it engages consistently as it always has.
U0109 - "Lost Communication w/ Fuel Pump Control Module" - This is intermittent, the truck starts and runs like a champ every time. I DID notice that there appears to be a missing relay in the primary fuse panel, which is listed as "FUEL PUMP" on the diagram - it is sandwiched between 31/33 and PRK LAMP, this has never been present so long as I have owned the vehicle.
ABS would not read with either scanner. After seeing the aforementioned codes, I cleared them multiple times and have checked every single fuse within the vehicle. The only fuse that was blown was the trailer pigtail for towing; I replaced it proactively, even though I seldom tow with this.
It has run reliably and driven as usual for ~1 week, approximately 250 miles. I did notice yesterday, while entering an on-ramp to an 80 MPH Interstate, that it would not rev beyond 2,000 RPMs in 4th gear, and wouldn't downshift on full throttle. I suspect that this is a different issue, as it only manifested the one time. There is still plenty of torque and it accelerates fine otherwise.
Thanks for reading my long-winded post; I'm hopeful that somebody will have some suggestions for me. I tackled all of the troubleshooting that I felt was prudent before throwing up a post.
