Strange electrical issues

[Jonrobinson84]

My 05 Yukon has some parasitic drain going on and it is very hit or miss when trouble shooting. Some nights battery is drained, some nights it isn't.

I just noticed that when I open my passenger doors at night, the dome lights don't come on. Also I reached in and turned the truck off from the passenger side yesterday and the radio stayed on even after shutting the door. Not sure why the truck thinks the doors don't open and close and wondering if that may be part of my battery drain issue.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Sounds like your passenger side pin switch might be bad.

 

[Jonrobinson84]

Happens with both front and back doors. I put off the idea of the pin switch when both acted the same way. Will check it out though

 

[Project Denali]

If you haven't yet, I would recommend a parasitic draw test. If you don't know how to do one you can look it up though I assume you probably do or I can tell you. With a draw narrowed down to a specific circuit, wiring diagrams, and a multimeter a frustrating draw can be easily found and fixed. Let me know if you need diagrams for anything!

 

[Jonrobinson84]

Thanks Prohect Denali! May need some input. The problem seems to be hit or miss. Always a miss when I pull the negative cable and check circuits for amps. It's almost like the drain is there some days and some days it's not. I will give it another test this week and post results.

 

[RED TAHOE LS]

Suggestion, take the underhood light bulb out as well as the glove box lamp bulb, and also make sure your over ride button @ the headlamp switch panel is correct, meaning the interior lamps come on when door is opened. See what happens with your battery drain. JMHO and good luck.
David g.

 

[Project Denali]

1) With a fully charged battery, unhook the negative battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

2) Place a heavy rated multimeter (10A+) in between the negative cable and the negative terminal of the battery.

3) Turn your multimeter to the 10A or higher position and if you're doing it alone like me tape the multimeter leads onto the respective cable and terminal so it holds them in place...

4) With the leads connected, some of the modules will "wake back up" for a short time before shutting down... you will see a drop in Amps on the meter. My experience was that it dropped after about 20 seconds.

5) Start pulling fuses one at a time figuring out where your excessive draw is occurring. For me it was the 10 A IPC/DIC fuse.

After a diy cluster repair I can say there's no more draw on my car! Hopefully this helps

 

[rockola1971]

Also clean and reconnect ground behind engine on firewall. This is a key ground for the BCM. The BCM will go nuts on you if this ground is broken or corroded.

 

[Danny3737]

You could also have a battery cell that is dying and depending on the last time it ran to the next time you started it will make a difference as so could the temperature. I had the dreaded "phone unavailable" message running my weak battery down. If that is the case, just pull the "info" fuse

Project Denali has given the best way to test if indeed you do have a parasitic draw