retorq
Full Access Member
I too have a shift kit I understand what it does but when I want it too it'll go above 2000 RPMS easily. 
Studdering Going Up Hill
- Thread starter 19972DoorTahoe
- Start date
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raptorforme93
Full Access Member
Wait you cant get your truck to rev above 2500 rpms at all even if you floor it on a flat road in any gear?? I'm still learning a lot about these trucks so I dont have a whole lot of imput but we are all here to help the best we can I hope you get your issue fixed! I hate it when there is something wrong with my hoe
---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ----------
Sometimes I scare myself when I get up in the 5k rpm range. It wouldnt be a problem if people just knew that the left lane is the FAST LANE. Then I wouldnt have to floor it in a fit of anger
I hope you get your issue fixed! I hate it when there is something wrong with my hoe ---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ----------
Sometimes I scare myself when I get up in the 5k rpm range. It wouldnt be a problem if people just knew that the left lane is the FAST LANE. Then I wouldnt have to floor it in a fit of anger
19972DoorTahoe
TYF Newbie
retorq : I think the shift kit is the best thing to happen to my truck honestly . It runs amazing . Ususally when just driving around , my RPMS stay around 1500 - 2000 . If I step on it a little bit to get around someone on the highway ... It's like 2500 . If I floor to race a ricer , it will deffently push 3000 RPMS . I just injoy the fact that in every day driving , it stays at low RPMS . Because the hubbys S4 , stays around 2000-2500 . But that could be the foot speaking also . But I think it honestly helps my gas mileage . And when it's on cruse control , it stays at 2000RPMS . I just wish my truck would grant me a few more miles to the gallon with gas the way it is .
raptorforme93 : Any help , is a big help . If theres anything I can help with for you guys , I will deffently try . I've had this truck for almost 2 years . And when I got it , the guy I bought it from , put about $8K into it . So up until now , I havent had to actually start working on it at all . And I love love love racing cars . Ha . I know theres ones out there that aren't even worth picking , but it's funny to beat some of them . They won't even look at you then . And the name "hoe" , ha . That's what I call mine all the time . But somehow it gained the name " Magic Truck " . So I'm sticking with it ! This was my dream truck since I was like 12 ... And to actually get it as my first and only car , it's a great feeling . I want to do so many things with it . But deffently a one step at a time job . Specially when money doesn't grow on trees !
raptorforme93 : Any help , is a big help . If theres anything I can help with for you guys , I will deffently try . I've had this truck for almost 2 years . And when I got it , the guy I bought it from , put about $8K into it . So up until now , I havent had to actually start working on it at all . And I love love love racing cars . Ha . I know theres ones out there that aren't even worth picking , but it's funny to beat some of them . They won't even look at you then . And the name "hoe" , ha . That's what I call mine all the time . But somehow it gained the name " Magic Truck " . So I'm sticking with it ! This was my dream truck since I was like 12 ... And to actually get it as my first and only car , it's a great feeling . I want to do so many things with it . But deffently a one step at a time job . Specially when money doesn't grow on trees !
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Okay Duralast is not OEM. when you can afford it replace it with Acdelco which is. These GM's are finicky about ignition and electronic engine parts if they are not from the OEM suppliers(conspiracy anyone?).
You can buy MAF cleaner spray at the auto store. Disconnect and remove the assembly. hold it at a downward angle and spray the inside down make sure not to damage the wires inside and don't crush or deform the screen. Let it dry and reinstall.
About this speed issue I will assume the "kit" is design to keep the engine on the high end of the torque band or close to it. If you truly cannot get above 3000 like say on an unloaded engine(in neutral or park) then you have issues but it sounds about right for what you describe you have installed. It just does not sound like you ever been speeding before.
You can buy MAF cleaner spray at the auto store. Disconnect and remove the assembly. hold it at a downward angle and spray the inside down make sure not to damage the wires inside and don't crush or deform the screen. Let it dry and reinstall.
About this speed issue I will assume the "kit" is design to keep the engine on the high end of the torque band or close to it. If you truly cannot get above 3000 like say on an unloaded engine(in neutral or park) then you have issues but it sounds about right for what you describe you have installed. It just does not sound like you ever been speeding before.
19972DoorTahoe
TYF Newbie
sunlitcomet : BLAH ! Ha okay . I think this is kind of a misunderstanding . My shift kit , and RPMS are where and what they are suppose to be . I was just trying to make a point , that I think it keeps my RPMS lower than a regular tranny would if I'm litterally crusing . And the speed comment , ha . The gage only goes to 100 . Haha . But I have put it in low gears at a red light and floored the truck to race people . I most deffently use this 350 motor the way it was built to be used . But the trucks still my baby
I wanted to thank you ... Because I just changed my oil , put the motor flush in it before I drained it out , and put new in , with this additive , I forgot what it was called , it's in a silver can like a Red Bull can , they make it for different sized motors , new oil filter , cap and rotor , and spark plugs ... And we litterally tryed every hill in this side of town , making the truck drop all the way down in the shift and trying to slowly go up hills , fast up hills , and no more studder ... So I'm just going to go ahead and jinx myself and say I think we fixed the problem . But the next few days going to work , will prove if I'm right or wrong ... Will keep y'all updated .
All though ... This didn't help my cranking problem . So , to replace next will be coil . I found where it is today I was proud of myself ! And then more problems showed up after I fixed this one . One of the four hoses on the left side of the bay is leaking antifreeze every now and again , and just drips . It's not the hose from the radiator on top ( the real skinny one ) ... Or the big on that goes right into the block with that weird plastic piece that holds it in . ( GM was the only place I could get that ... Like all $150 of it )
Okay , enough of me running my mouth ! Thanks again ! And so far , I belive all of this is helping .
I wanted to thank you ... Because I just changed my oil , put the motor flush in it before I drained it out , and put new in , with this additive , I forgot what it was called , it's in a silver can like a Red Bull can , they make it for different sized motors , new oil filter , cap and rotor , and spark plugs ... And we litterally tryed every hill in this side of town , making the truck drop all the way down in the shift and trying to slowly go up hills , fast up hills , and no more studder ... So I'm just going to go ahead and jinx myself and say I think we fixed the problem . But the next few days going to work , will prove if I'm right or wrong ... Will keep y'all updated .
All though ... This didn't help my cranking problem . So , to replace next will be coil . I found where it is today
I was proud of myself ! And then more problems showed up after I fixed this one . One of the four hoses on the left side of the bay is leaking antifreeze every now and again , and just drips . It's not the hose from the radiator on top ( the real skinny one ) ... Or the big on that goes right into the block with that weird plastic piece that holds it in . ( GM was the only place I could get that ... Like all $150 of it )Okay , enough of me running my mouth ! Thanks again ! And so far , I belive all of this is helping .
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SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
A detail.
You are probably talking about Restore. Never used additives before. IMO if the part can't run on the fluid that was designed for it something is broke and needs to be fixed.. If you seem to have gotten rid of the shuddering then it may be safe to say you can leave the coil alone right now. Have you thought about doing a compression test on the engine. Without the oil additives though. Keep it in mind when you change your oil again.
raptorforme93
Full Access Member
Glad to here that you got the shuddering taken care of I hope that your hoe lasts you for years to come! I also have a lot if stuff that I want to do to my truck but I am poor my 2 door hoe is also my first vehicle and I absolutely love it!! I want to keep it forever
I hope that your hoe lasts you for years to come! I also have a lot if stuff that I want to do to my truck but I am poor my 2 door hoe is also my first vehicle and I absolutely love it!! I want to keep it forever19972DoorTahoe
TYF Newbie
sunlitcomet : I haven't thought about doing a compression test on my motor . I will deffently keep it in mind the next time I change my oil . Thanks for all your help . I might end up replacing the coil , because I don't know if it's ever been changed or not ,
raptorforme93 : I'm glad to hear that you are a lover of the truck like I am Ha . Your truck looks nice though I want to actually drop mine , because honestly , I think it wouldn't look right lifted . ( I'll put a picture up here late of it , so maybe you might see what I'm talking about ! )
- Went today and go new tires put on ( Goodyear Wrangler Ridals ) , and got em' blanced . Went to get the alignment done , and they said they wern't able to because my ball joints are bad ! Awesome ! Just one more thing to add to the book of parts I need . On top of that , with the 190K miles on the truck , apperently there is something that has to be punched out on the frame of the truck to show there has been an alignment done to it . And as far as they can tell , it's never been done . Kinda pisses me off . But I will get it all fixed !
Thanks again guys !
raptorforme93 : I'm glad to hear that you are a lover of the truck like I am
Ha . Your truck looks nice though I want to actually drop mine , because honestly , I think it wouldn't look right lifted . ( I'll put a picture up here late of it , so maybe you might see what I'm talking about ! )- Went today and go new tires put on ( Goodyear Wrangler Ridals ) , and got em' blanced . Went to get the alignment done , and they said they wern't able to because my ball joints are bad ! Awesome ! Just one more thing to add to the book of parts I need . On top of that , with the 190K miles on the truck , apperently there is something that has to be punched out on the frame of the truck to show there has been an alignment done to it . And as far as they can tell , it's never been done . Kinda pisses me off . But I will get it all fixed !
Thanks again guys !
BlkYukon95
Member
Ball joints aren't that hard to change. When you get them done I would suggest doing the entire front end. There is no reason to do ball joints if all other front end parts are bad also. I just changed all 4 ball joints, 4 tie rods, idler arm, and pitman arm. If you can do the work I got everything for $550, and that was for Moog parts.
The "knock-outs" they are talking about allow the control arm to be adjusted. My 95 Yukon with 106k on it never had that done either. That is pretty easy to do (there is a tool you can use with a nut on both ends that punches it out).
Good luck with everything!
The "knock-outs" they are talking about allow the control arm to be adjusted. My 95 Yukon with 106k on it never had that done either. That is pretty easy to do (there is a tool you can use with a nut on both ends that punches it out).
Good luck with everything!
19972DoorTahoe
TYF Newbie
BlkYukon95 : Thanks for the suggestions ! This truck is running me broke , big time right now . I just want to make a list of things I should replace while I'm under there . So I know how much I'm looking at spending and how much time I'm going to need .
2 Upper Ball Joints
2 Lower Ball Joints
2 Inner Tie Rods
2 Outter Tie Rods
Idler Arm ( They have the arm only , and then something else that is named Bracket pivot assy. ) Do I need both of those ? Or is that something totally random that has nothing to do with it , and they just want you to spend more money on it ?
Pitman Arm
Should I get the control arms too ? And the bushings in your opinon ? When it's colder and you are taking bigger bumps , it makes a sound that resembles the noise a bed makes when the springs are worn out ... I couldn't think of anything else to describe it as . But would that have something to do with the bushings ?
Thanks again .
2 Upper Ball Joints
2 Lower Ball Joints
2 Inner Tie Rods
2 Outter Tie Rods
Idler Arm ( They have the arm only , and then something else that is named Bracket pivot assy. ) Do I need both of those ? Or is that something totally random that has nothing to do with it , and they just want you to spend more money on it ?
Pitman Arm
Should I get the control arms too ? And the bushings in your opinon ? When it's colder and you are taking bigger bumps , it makes a sound that resembles the noise a bed makes when the springs are worn out ... I couldn't think of anything else to describe it as . But would that have something to do with the bushings ?
Thanks again .
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