chauncey0337
Full Access Member
I could be wrong but it could also be because the rear heater core hoses run outside the truck all the way to the rear of the truck so I'm sure that cools it down some.
Stupid Connector!?!??!?!
- Thread starter Rivieraracing
- Start date
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Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Well, once you get the fittings unconnected, it's a piece of cake!! Best way to flush the rear core out on my opinion is to do it from the passenger side wheel well.
Probably the best idea would be to remove the right rear tire all together, then you would have a ton of space, but I elected to keep it on which was still doable!!
All you have to do to get to the connectors from the wheel well is remove 3 screws (either a 6mm or 7mm socket) that hold the inner fender skirt where a mudflap would be and then drop it down out of the way and then you will be staring at the connections!!
You will have enough room to clamp off both hoses with one of those special clamps I got from HF (Need the ones that have a big rounded edge, don't use the duck bill type that have a pointed edge because it will hurt the rubber hose and create a weak spot in the hose.) Like I mentioned earlier in the thread, the HF ones are big enough that they will clamp off both hoses at the same time at that location at the wheel well!!
Another thing I did was that I attached some extra heater hose (3/4") to both tubes of the heater core to flush out the heater core, that way you are not under the truck while it's flushing out all over you, and also so I could have one hose in a bucket filling up with water while I was using the other to spray into with the hose. I hosed it out a ton of times, from each hose, I was determined to make completely sure that it was all hosed out because I wasn't gonna spend the 1 1/2 to unhook them both again!! lol
Give it a try guys, if you heat in the back of the truck is subpar, especially at an idle like mine was, this should do the job. I didn't really see anything special get flushed out into the bucket that would have necessarily caused it to be partially plugged, but the flushing did seem to work!! Even if your trucks heat is fine, I see it a good thing to do whenever you are changing out your coolant in your truck and flushing everything out. If you look inside your engine compartment, take a look at where the rear heater core tees off of the front core hose.
If you tried to flush both together, I don't think you would get the water pressure needed to flush the rear core due to the fact that most of the pressure is gonna go straight past the tees into the front core and back out instead of directing alot of the pressure towards the back! Those wanting to change their coolant and want to flush EVERYTHING OUT, I'd recommend disconnecting the wheel well connections and also the front heater core hoses at the water pump when you do the rest of your trucks heating system. First I'd plug both connections at the wheel well and hose out both hoses that you disconnected at the water pump, that should clean out the front heater core well. Then unplug the wheel well ones and hose out each of those to clean out the line real well!! Then hose out the rear core from both tubes very well and then reconnect everything!
If anyone is needing pics of anything I'm describing, let me know and I can stage a few on my truck for you, but all in all it's all pretty easy as long as you can get the not so quick quick connects unhooked!!
---------- Post added at 07:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:09 AM ----------
Yeah, if I'd really thought about it and known there was a core back there, I would have been flushing it out whenever I did my coolant changes!! I will be doing it from here on out!
---------- Post added at 07:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:10 AM ----------
It should matter how cold it is where you are, if your driving for a while and have the rear heat on full blast with the front heat, you should at some point have to turn the rear heat down or off at some point because it is making the truck too hot!! If yours blows warm air out and you would never have to turn it down from getting the inside too hot, then you might wanna try a flush!!
---------- Post added at 07:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 AM ----------
No, your right! The rear core lines are steel from the plastic tees in the engine bay all the way back till about almost a foot from the core and then they turn into rubber into the core!! If you damaged one of the rubber lines, then you have to replace the whole run because the rubber is a pressed on fitting to the steel!! That's why you need the specific rubber hose friendly clamps!!
---------- Post added at 07:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 AM ----------
1. Doesn't suprise me!! lol
2. So am I!!
3. You should be adding this to your coolant change maintenance!
4. That's why I did it!!
And yes, the heat is needed here!! Love adding the rear heat in these trucks to warm the truck fast with the front heat!!
Probably the best idea would be to remove the right rear tire all together, then you would have a ton of space, but I elected to keep it on which was still doable!!
All you have to do to get to the connectors from the wheel well is remove 3 screws (either a 6mm or 7mm socket) that hold the inner fender skirt where a mudflap would be and then drop it down out of the way and then you will be staring at the connections!!
You will have enough room to clamp off both hoses with one of those special clamps I got from HF (Need the ones that have a big rounded edge, don't use the duck bill type that have a pointed edge because it will hurt the rubber hose and create a weak spot in the hose.) Like I mentioned earlier in the thread, the HF ones are big enough that they will clamp off both hoses at the same time at that location at the wheel well!!
Another thing I did was that I attached some extra heater hose (3/4") to both tubes of the heater core to flush out the heater core, that way you are not under the truck while it's flushing out all over you, and also so I could have one hose in a bucket filling up with water while I was using the other to spray into with the hose. I hosed it out a ton of times, from each hose, I was determined to make completely sure that it was all hosed out because I wasn't gonna spend the 1 1/2 to unhook them both again!! lol
Give it a try guys, if you heat in the back of the truck is subpar, especially at an idle like mine was, this should do the job. I didn't really see anything special get flushed out into the bucket that would have necessarily caused it to be partially plugged, but the flushing did seem to work!! Even if your trucks heat is fine, I see it a good thing to do whenever you are changing out your coolant in your truck and flushing everything out. If you look inside your engine compartment, take a look at where the rear heater core tees off of the front core hose.
If you tried to flush both together, I don't think you would get the water pressure needed to flush the rear core due to the fact that most of the pressure is gonna go straight past the tees into the front core and back out instead of directing alot of the pressure towards the back! Those wanting to change their coolant and want to flush EVERYTHING OUT, I'd recommend disconnecting the wheel well connections and also the front heater core hoses at the water pump when you do the rest of your trucks heating system. First I'd plug both connections at the wheel well and hose out both hoses that you disconnected at the water pump, that should clean out the front heater core well. Then unplug the wheel well ones and hose out each of those to clean out the line real well!! Then hose out the rear core from both tubes very well and then reconnect everything!
If anyone is needing pics of anything I'm describing, let me know and I can stage a few on my truck for you, but all in all it's all pretty easy as long as you can get the not so quick quick connects unhooked!!
---------- Post added at 07:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:09 AM ----------
Yeah, if I'd really thought about it and known there was a core back there, I would have been flushing it out whenever I did my coolant changes!! I will be doing it from here on out!
---------- Post added at 07:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:10 AM ----------
It should matter how cold it is where you are, if your driving for a while and have the rear heat on full blast with the front heat, you should at some point have to turn the rear heat down or off at some point because it is making the truck too hot!! If yours blows warm air out and you would never have to turn it down from getting the inside too hot, then you might wanna try a flush!!
---------- Post added at 07:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 AM ----------
No, your right! The rear core lines are steel from the plastic tees in the engine bay all the way back till about almost a foot from the core and then they turn into rubber into the core!! If you damaged one of the rubber lines, then you have to replace the whole run because the rubber is a pressed on fitting to the steel!! That's why you need the specific rubber hose friendly clamps!!
---------- Post added at 07:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 AM ----------
1. Doesn't suprise me!! lol
2. So am I!!
3. You should be adding this to your coolant change maintenance!
4. That's why I did it!!
And yes, the heat is needed here!! Love adding the rear heat in these trucks to warm the truck fast with the front heat!!
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
Hey Chris, maybe you should just add some pics and call this a 'how to' thread. I'm sure it would be very helpful to many on here!
1. Doesn't suprise me!! lol
2. So am I!!
3. You should be adding this to your coolant change maintenance!
4. That's why I did it!!
And yes, the heat is needed here!! Love adding the rear heat in these trucks to warm the truck fast with the front heat!!
ha ha ha ha .... take pics and make diy fool.
OP
OP
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
How about you flush out yours and do the DIY for me foo, it's too cold outside to go throught all that again!! lol
---------- Post added at 04:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:25 PM ----------
I'm right there with ya, not a fun thing to do if it's cold out!! If it would have come undone easily like it should have, the whole process would only take about 10 minutes!! Great spring time job or also a warm garage/shop job!
OP
OP
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
So glad I did this to my truck, I went from always having the rear temp on full blast and just turning the rear fan on and off to compliment the front heat to now having the rear of the truck heat up sooo fast that I have to turn the temp down half way and keep the fan on for a bit longer to cool it down from it getting too hot before i turn it off (also unfogs the windows way faster)!! Now it's just like it was when I first bought the truck, can't believe i didn't really notice it was getting bad in the fast few years to fix it!
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