I used to have a down firing Boston 12" in a sealed box in various cars of mine and I loved it but I am trying to get away from the box in the cargo area idea and just have something tucked away.
Subwoofer location preference.
- Thread starter BubsXL
- Start date
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There is space where the 2000-2002 subwoofer used to be.
It isn't much space, so if you want to replace the driver in a factory box, you will need shallow mount. It will tuck out of the way, and completely disappear, just like factory.
It isn't much space, so if you want to replace the driver in a factory box, you will need shallow mount. It will tuck out of the way, and completely disappear, just like factory.
WildernessJeep
Full Access Member
Will the wiring be in place for my vehicle, or am I going to have to pull the whole interior to get the sub wired up??
I'm thinking about doing a carpet kit at the same time, but far prefer plug and play stuff.
Bigsteve04Ho
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Whether the wiring is there depends on what vehicle you have.
I looked for that info by scrolling back to the last 5 posts you made in this thread and couldn't find anyplace where you identified your vehicle, other than a Jeep, I assume with the Wilderness package.
If your vehicle did not come with a rear sub initially, then it will not have the wiring for it. It also will not have 3 out the 4 mounting cleats for the rear sub, if you have a Suburban. I don't know how the Tahoe/Yukon shore wheel bases models mount, other than they are different from the Suburbans / YukonXLs.
WildernessJeep
Full Access Member
That's nuts. I can hear it from here. Nice rig.
R
---------- Post added at 01:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------
Whether the wiring is there depends on what vehicle you have.
I looked for that info by scrolling back to the last 5 posts you made in this thread and couldn't find anyplace where you identified your vehicle, other than a Jeep, I assume with the Wilderness package.
If your vehicle did not come with a rear sub initially, then it will not have the wiring for it. It also will not have 3 out the 4 mounting cleats for the rear sub, if you have a Suburban. I don't know how the Tahoe/Yukon shore wheel bases models mount, other than they are different from the Suburbans / YukonXLs.
Sorry, 2005 Yukon Denali, AWD. I'll wire it up, I just want it to look factory when it is done. I'll probably do the carpet kit and the nav/stereo upgrade at the same time. While I have the seats out, I'll get the driver reupholstered. And paint the front bumper. And get new rims. And tires. and exhaust sytem. and _____. and...... and....... and.......
In the process of putting in a rear sub from a 2001 Sub into my 2005 Sub, I found out that while the mounting space is still there, the mounting cleats are not.
There are four metal U shaped tabs that keep the factory sub from rattling around bouncing back and forth between the interior plastic rear quarter panel trim and the interior layer of rear quarter panel sheet metal. One of the holes is already in the sheet metal, and only requires a speed nut and a bolt to install. The other three tabs are MIA. They are U shaped brackets that the factory welds into place.
I ordered these brackets, and plan to JB Weld them, or use 3M Body Adhesive, to fix them into place.
No point in trying to improve sound quality by creating a new vibration or rattle over the bumps by securing the sub with only one mount. One mount is merely a pivot point. It takes a second mount to keep an item from rotating.
The brackets came in the mail today. With shipping, the new mounting brackets cost 3 times what I paid for the used subwoofer. Add to that another $10.00 for the new factory connectors I ordered (shells, pins, sockets, and TPA's) to mate to the existing factory connector on the sub.
It costs money to make it REALLY look factory.
There are four metal U shaped tabs that keep the factory sub from rattling around bouncing back and forth between the interior plastic rear quarter panel trim and the interior layer of rear quarter panel sheet metal. One of the holes is already in the sheet metal, and only requires a speed nut and a bolt to install. The other three tabs are MIA. They are U shaped brackets that the factory welds into place.
I ordered these brackets, and plan to JB Weld them, or use 3M Body Adhesive, to fix them into place.
No point in trying to improve sound quality by creating a new vibration or rattle over the bumps by securing the sub with only one mount. One mount is merely a pivot point. It takes a second mount to keep an item from rotating.
The brackets came in the mail today. With shipping, the new mounting brackets cost 3 times what I paid for the used subwoofer. Add to that another $10.00 for the new factory connectors I ordered (shells, pins, sockets, and TPA's) to mate to the existing factory connector on the sub.
It costs money to make it REALLY look factory.
kses123
kses123
I just used butterfly screw anchors from Lowe's. They've done the job for years and are really cheap.
