Tahoe 98 having trouble starting.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

volvo21

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Hello! Im really new here, been checking this site out for a while, Anyhow! I got some problems with my tahoe, 350 SB 5,7l 98'a. When its cold its a huge trouble to start, sometimes it starts after 2-3 tries, other times 10+. It starts for a second or less to just cough? and then die. It idles around 450 - 500 RPM when its warm. Never notice when its cold thought.

My dad tells me that i shouldt touch the gas when i'll start it since it will ''soak'' but its usally easier to start it when ive floored it, And it sounds good :emotions36:

Ive talked to some people here in Sweden who are good on american cars and so, he told me the fuel pump was bad. Which i dont think it is, Since it runs perfectly once it started, And once you sit for a while, 1-2 hours it is hard to start again. What could the problem be?
New sparkplugs and stuff btw.


Picture of the babe. http://imgur.com/z9LB4qk
 

Donnie Yukonie

Yates Caretaker
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Posts
5,125
Reaction score
161
How old is the battery?

I would check there first , Being that your in sweden you might have a weaker CCA (cold cranking amp) battery making it harder for it to give you the juice to start
 

kcb37

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Posts
169
Reaction score
0
Flooring the gas when starting enables a flood mode.
This means the injectors are shut off. Meaning no gas.

Meaning if it start with the pedal floored it has a lot of gas already in it.

Take the intake tubing off the top of the throttle body.
Then either take the throttle body off (and clean it good idea)
Or open the throttle plate.

Using a inspection mirror you are looking inside the intake on the passenger side of the big plug behind the throttle body.
The FPR is mounted on the main body of the injection unit there. They have been known to leak.
If it is leaking the inside of the intake should be black (cause the egr and pcv do this)
If the FPR is leaking (has been long enough) is will clean this and show a silver/gray spot on the intake.

Could also be the injectors themselves leaking. But more then likely the FPR.

Sure it's going to be more for you there but the injectors are about $300 to $400 here.
Get Delphi brand, even if you have to wait for them.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
The injectors still run in flood mode but at a reduce dwell rate to a achieve a 16.5:1 AF ratio. They are not completely cut-off.
 
OP
OP
V

volvo21

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
How old is the battery?

I would check there first , Being that your in sweden you might have a weaker CCA (cold cranking amp) battery making it harder for it to give you the juice to start



Its fairly new, Whe changed before the winter.

Kcb, I'll check that out! Is it hard to remove it?

Sunlit, You mean those who sits in like a Volvo? My friend has an obd2 but only programs to fix or check a Volvo, think that'll work?

Do you know where it are?
 
OP
OP
V

volvo21

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
If the scanner can work with the SAE-J1850 protocol then it should work. Connector is at bottom of left dash.

Thank you! Ill check that out! Do you mean in front of the driver? Ah well, im not lazy, ill check myself! I'll hope it works!
 

KPOD

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2012
Posts
265
Reaction score
2
Location
Michigan
Mine does the same thing, except when it's cold (between negative 10 and 20 degrees) it will not even turn over, just makes a grinding noise. Someone told me it was my starter solenoid going out? Normally I have to turn it a handful of times (4-5) before the starter actually sounds engaged. I had my fuel pump replaced less than 10k miles ago with an AC Delco unit.
 

kcb37

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Posts
169
Reaction score
0
Throttle body is not hard to remove.
One wing nut/ screw deal to hold the intake tube ontop of the throttle body. Standing at the front bumper lift the rear and pull forward.
Then you need to unplug the IAC and TPS. (Idle air control valve and Throttle Positioning Sensor)
Disconnect the throttle and cruise cables.
Should be 3 bolts and it will lift right off. Take the IAC and TPS off before you start cleaning it. Carb cleaner is just fine.

Yes the scanner should work. Unless it is a different plug, European and older models have some interesting plugs. So it's possible you could have a different plug, but I don't think so.

Your problem may be will the scanner support it.
Here (depending on the scanner) American cars (Chevy/Ford) are very well supported.
BMW, Mercedes, etc... sometimes will not even be on a scanner or will have "holes" that the scanner cannot even show data for that car.

If it will plug in give it a go, worst is it will not communicate or will not show what you need.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,804
Posts
1,874,536
Members
97,651
Latest member
Dozer01
Top