Tapping getting louder. Can’t pinpoint and have tried stethoscope to no avail.

[iboughtatahoe23]

It’s like it’s coming from the torque converter or bottom bellhouse area. It’s a consistent tap. I’m getting scared cause the dealership said an exhaust leak.
Sounds:
Video 1
Video 2

 

[NickTransmissions]

Fix your exhaust leak for God's sake. You have at least three other threads on that one issue yet AFAIK you haven't done anything about it. If you aren't in a position to yank the heads to remove the broken stud then at least install the clamp you bought. Here's a short video from Dorman that explains the process, in case you haven't seen it. Looks like it takes about a half hour or so to do and should eliminate it as the source of the 'ticking/tapping' noises. If you have already installed the clamp and confirmed that the exhaust leak has been fixed then continue reading.

My 2003 Tahoe has been making the exact same sounds heard in your first video above (as well as some of your other clips posted in other threads) for the past 10 years / 70k+ miles. It still runs/drives fine and I don't worry about it.

If yours starts running real rough, you smell fuel, major tapping, misfires, or other symptoms of a collapsed lifter, yank the heads and replace all the lifters (use OEM new or equally reputable manufacturers - don't cheap out!), lifter trays (OEM only), knock sensors (OEM only), set of head bolts (OEM TTY or ARP - I'd go ARP but that's my personal preference), gaskets and seals. Have the heads checked for warpage (you can do this yourself with a precision straight edge and .001-.003 feeler gauges) and gone through (new valves, hardware, springs, guides if needed, etc).

Did you have the dealership give you a transmission diagnosis while it was there?

Multiple threads on that as well so hopefully you had them do a complete diag work up so you now know exactly what's wrong with it (if anything).

 

[wjburken]

Pull that inspection cover plug that’s on the bottom of the bell housing and make sure your flex plate isn’t cracked.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I could most certainly be wrong about this but dont think its the flexplate.

The couple trucks ive been in with verified cracked flex plates made a distinct knocking sound that was felt as much as it was heard. Vibrations were felt when putting it in and out of drive and reverse.

If the video is truely representative of the tapping sound as it is in person, it sound like an exhaust leak or normal valve train noise. Mine sounds just like it at idle and moderate acceleration.

The dealer is telling him exhaust leak (and the service techs were there listening to it) so putting that clamp on should help him rule in or out the broken stud as the source.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Pull that inspection cover plug that’s on the bottom of the bell housing and make sure your flex plate isn’t cracked.

Will try this.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Pull that inspection cover plug that’s on the bottom of the bell housing and make sure your flex plate isn’t cracked.

I could most certainly be wrong about this but dont think its the flexplate.

The couple trucks ive been in with verified cracked flex plates made a distinct knocking sound that was felt as much as it was heard. Vibrations were felt when putting it in and out of drive and reverse.

If the video is truely representative of the tapping sound as it is in person, it sound like an exhaust leak or normal valve train noise. Mine sounds just like it at idle and moderate acceleration.

The dealer is telling him exhaust leak (and the service techs were there listening to it) so putting that clamp on should help him rule in or out the broken stud as the source.

I know you’re getting tired of my posts nick XD

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Fix your exhaust leak for God's sake. You have at least three other threads on that one issue yet AFAIK you haven't done anything about it. If you aren't in a position to yank the heads to remove the broken stud then at least install the clamp you bought. Here's a short video from Dorman that explains the process, in case you haven't seen it. Looks like it takes about a half hour or so to do and should eliminate it as the source of the 'ticking/tapping' noises. If you have already installed the clamp and confirmed that the exhaust leak has been fixed then continue reading.

My 2003 Tahoe has been making the exact same sounds heard in your first video above (as well as some of your other clips posted in other threads) for the past 10 years / 70k+ miles. It still runs/drives fine and I don't worry about it.

If yours starts running real rough, you smell fuel, major tapping, misfires, or other symptoms of a collapsed lifter, yank the heads and replace all the lifters (use OEM new or equally reputable manufacturers - don't cheap out!), lifter trays (OEM only), knock sensors (OEM only), set of head bolts (OEM TTY or ARP - I'd go ARP but that's my personal preference), gaskets and seals. Have the heads checked for warpage (you can do this yourself with a precision straight edge and .001-.003 feeler gauges) and gone through (new valves, hardware, springs, guides if needed, etc).

Did you have the dealership give you a transmission diagnosis while it was there?

Multiple threads on that as well so hopefully you had them do a complete diag work up so you now know exactly what's wrong with it (if anything).

Not at the dealership but at the local mechanic I paid for a transmission diagnosis. The dealership did diagnose my “exhaust tick” and about the local mechanic, I don’t think he even actually pulled it for the $50 fee. Bc how do you diagnose the trans without taking it apart. It doesn’t throw codes. It just shifts weird it seems until the temp of the trans reaches 140-180°F, it has a rough idle that I’ve been trying to fix. I’ve done everything from serp belt, maf sensor, throttle body etc next on my list is plugs and wires. And god forbid it’s the torque converter or something outlandish.
Battery and alternator passed tests, so those check out.


Is there any loose connections I can check for just to be sure? Perhaps the transmission wiring?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I will do that clamp some time when I get acess to a 3 ton Jack and some stands. Reliable Jacks aren’t cheap. Lately just haven’t had money to throw at my car.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Not at the dealership but at the local mechanic I paid for a transmission diagnosis. The dealership did diagnose my “exhaust tick” and about the local mechanic, I don’t think he even actually pulled it for the $50 fee. Bc how do you diagnose the trans without taking it apart. It doesn’t throw codes. It just shifts weird it seems until the temp of the trans reaches 140-180°F, it has a rough idle that I’ve been trying to fix. I’ve done everything from serp belt, maf sensor, throttle body etc next on my list is plugs and wires. And god forbid it’s the torque converter or something outlandish.
Battery and alternator passed tests, so those check out.


Is there any loose connections I can check for just to be sure? Perhaps the transmission wiring?

What exactly did the local mechanic do to diag the trans? Did he/they tell you?
At minimum, he should have taken it on a test drive w/a two way scanner to observe shifts being commanded and confirming they were actually happening. If nothing odd was seen on the scan tool but drivability symptoms were observed, he should have dropped the pan (confirmed w/you first to get the 'ok' if this meant the diag cost would go up), ohm'ed the solenoids, internal mode switch, pressure switches and speed sensors. If those all checked out, next step is to separate the valve body halves and test all the valve trains on the Sonnax tester (or tell you he doesn't have one and could not complete that part of the diagnosis and recommend you take it to a transmission shop for further investigation).

I will do that clamp some time when I get acess to a 3 ton Jack and some stands. Reliable Jacks aren’t cheap. Lately just haven’t had money to throw at my car.

I was just about to ask you why you think you need a jack and stands but decided to take a quick look under my hood to see if I could get to the rear dr side exhaust stud to install the clamp without having to take the wheel or exhaust off.

Low and behold I just 'discovered' that I also have a missing bolt/nut at that location!

Note the last bolt hole location - nothing's there.


For what it's worth, I also have no soot or other signs of leakage other than the tick sound - the same tick I hear in your video.

Again, I could be wrong (and its worth checking just to be sure as @wjburken suggested) but I don't think your flex plate is broken.
I think it's your missing stud/nut or bolt (or whatever the hell goes there).

I guess we both have clamps to install...

 

[wjburken]

Again, I could be wrong (and its worth checking just to be sure as @wjburken suggested) but I don't think your flex plate is broken.
I think it's your missing stud/nut or bolt (or whatever the hell goes there).

If nothing else, if he pulls that plug, he’ll be able to see the torque convertor and know for sure where it’s at.