Temp 3/4 way high, fan growling

[treehan77]

What’s a good way to get more coolant out of the system?

 

[SnowDrifter]

What’s a good way to get more coolant out of the system?

There's a threaded plug on the block, driver's side, above the oil filter. It's where the stock block heater goes. Large hex key to remove. Jump fast

I think there's one on the pass. side too but the starter's in the way.

IIRC there are a couple smaller ones too that you can take out but I don't feel like crawling under to see. The big brass one will get the lion's share out anyway. Use some thread sealant when you put it back

When you remove the heater core lines, more coolant will come out. You can gently use some compressed air to push the fluid out. Or rinse w/ garden hose and chase with distilled water. Just be gentle with the compressed air. So long as there's fluid in there, it's easy to way overpressurize the thing.

Honestly that should get a good 70% of it out. The rest will be pooled in the heads and pass. side of the block.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Also, FWIW, I usually don't go nuts with trying to drain all the coolant. I'll buy 8 or 10 gallons of distilled water from the store, drain, fill w/ distilled water, run the car, repeat until clear. Then the last time, I drain as much as I can, pull out my calculator, figure out how much concentrate I need to add to the system, then top off the remainder with distilled water. Done that twice now. Once when I switched off dex-cool, and once more when I changed formulations again.

For normal maintenance, I just d/c the lower radiator hose, let drain, then fill it back up. Not a full flush but enough to cycle some coolant through and replenish the pH buffers, dielectrics, etc. Used to do it annually. Will probably do every 2 years because of the coolant formulation I'm running now. Probably excessive but coolant is cheap. I'll gladly drop 10 bucks in coolant every couple years. Cheaper than trying to fuss with lab tests and it's easier to stay ahead of cooling system issues than clean up after the fact. Original heater core, fittings, rad, hoses, etc. Replaced the water pump but only because I had it off and didn't want to put a 15 year old one back on. Did the t-stat when I got it not because I had an issue, but cheap insurance. Meh. Take that info how you will.

 

[Chris2144]

The radiator will mostly drain itself of almost all coolant the last time I flushed I took a garden hose to the upper hose and let the lower hose drain. With the engine running for a few mins. Stop and let everything drain then do as snowdrifter said and purge the heater core. Fill back with distilled water and coolant system cleaner let run to operating temp. Stop let it cool the drain and flush again. Then fill with antifreeze. Obviously there are a few ways to do it this way I have found to work the best. But in the end you want all of the old dexcool out even if your going in with new dexcool which I don't recommend.

 

[Rocket Man]

The radiator will mostly drain itself of almost all coolant the last time I flushed I took a garden hose to the upper hose and let the lower hose drain. With the engine running for a few mins. Stop and let everything drain then do as snowdrifter said and purge the heater core. Fill back with distilled water and coolant system cleaner let run to operating temp. Stop let it cool the drain and flush again. Then fill with antifreeze. Obviously there are a few ways to do it this way I have found to work the best. But in the end you want all of the old dexcool out even if your going in with new dexcool which I don't recommend.

I see that you’re dead set against Dexcool and have instructed the OP to ditch it- twice- so can you explain your reasoning? Not that you’re going to convince me, but at least you should explain why you feel the need to tell people to not use it. Thanks.

 

[Chris2144]

Dexcool cannot be mixed with other coolants. Therefore if op is going back in with some part store house brand green coolant he needs to make sure all of the old is flushed out. Also dexcool as it ages becomes acidic as the ph changes. This can lead to the coolant eating away at parts it comes in contact with if left unchecked. There are better options out there imo that are still 5 year life span and meet the same and or better specs than dexcool that are about the same price. To be fair most manufactures have gone to oat or hybrid coolant like gms dexcool because it is superior to traditional coolants. Again I just think there are better options out there.

 

[treehan77]

Almost done. Upper rad hose didn’t show up, but new AC tensioner, belt , ew water pump, housing, thermostat, serpentine belt, idler and tensioner, lower hose all done. Just gotta put the upper hose and shroud back on and fill up with with dexcool n water. Yep dexcool lol

 

[treehan77]

Woulda been easier if I didn’t brake/rip something in my finger camping this weekend lol

 

[wjburken]

Woulda been easier if I didn’t brake/rip something in my finger camping this weekend lol

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Working wounded is not fun. Sounds like you made good progress though.

 

[treehan77]

pretty easy job. Only two tough parts were the AC tensioner bolts because they’re in a tough spot with this finger, and the lower radiator spring clamps until I smartened you and used vice grips on those