The real cure to my ticking engine

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Brian Wilson

Brian Wilson

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No I got the ory which has no cats. And no provisions for rear oxygen sensors. It does have a provision for a wide band
 

Ex Euro Driver

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Wow, after reading all these stories of failed lifters/motors I've become a bit concerned about owning a '14 6.2. What is the key to keeping these failures from happening? I've got 25K on the motor and have turned off the AFM and change my oil every 5K. Not very confident about hitting the dreaded 60K mile mark. Are these motors that fragile? Hell, even my old BMW X5's didn't have issues until 90K.
 
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Brian Wilson

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Wow, after reading all these stories of failed lifters/motors I've become a bit concerned about owning a '14 6.2. What is the key to keeping these failures from happening? I've got 25K on the motor and have turned off the AFM and change my oil every 5K. Not very confident about hitting the dreaded 60K mile mark. Are these motors that fragile? Hell, even my old BMW X5's didn't have issues until 90K.

It is a problem but I would say keep an eye on your oil pressure. Then if you have the extra funds or time, get rid of your AFM lifters and valley cover. If you look at all the post on failures they all come back to low oil pressure or a failed lifter. And if you have either of these symptoms, fix it yesterday because it will cost more money and do more damage every time you drive it. These are really amazing engines and gm has never made a more solid block or lower end. And gm has never got the power and efficiency these engines offer before. The the AFM (which I hate) and vvt (which I love) is just a hurdle they have to jump to meet federal guidelines. Just like the smog guidelines in the early 1970s were. Nobody wins but it easy enough to fix the problems before they happen. Having said that, I will never change a cam with the engine inside a truck again. My entire body was sore for a week and the entire time I was thinking about scratching the paint and how awful the lighting was. Not to mention doing everything on a step ladder sucked. (I'm only 5 ft 8inch) Pull the engine if you go that far.
 

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It is a problem but I would say keep an eye on your oil pressure. Then if you have the extra funds or time, get rid of your AFM lifters and valley cover. If you look at all the post on failures they all come back to low oil pressure or a failed lifter. And if you have either of these symptoms, fix it yesterday because it will cost more money and do more damage every time you drive it. These are really amazing engines and gm has never made a more solid block or lower end. And gm has never got the power and efficiency these engines offer before. The the AFM (which I hate) and vvt (which I love) is just a hurdle they have to jump to meet federal guidelines. Just like the smog guidelines in the early 1970s were. Nobody wins but it easy enough to fix the problems before they happen. Having said that, I will never change a cam with the engine inside a truck again. My entire body was sore for a week and the entire time I was thinking about scratching the paint and how awful the lighting was. Not to mention doing everything on a step ladder sucked. (I'm only 5 ft 8inch) Pull the engine if you go that far.
Brian, you're the man. Thanks so much for the insight and advice. Really appreciate it.
 

Tacky

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Well, I may be late to the party but I'm here now! I dont belive in the gm 'piston slap' excuse. I don't believe 10 psi of oil pressure at hot idle is 'normal'. And I have personaly seen the real causes for both issues. Several times I was quoted a new engine install from the dealer if it bothers me so much.


Cam bearing and cam- maybe not much of a problem in the real world. But most people think it is. If you inspect your cam bearings and see copper color you assume they are bad. This is NOT the case on a modern ls engine. The cam bearings are installed at the factory and then line honed before cam install. This is the cause of the copper color seen and is not in any way an indication of a bad bearing in this engine. The myth comes from older engines that had an older style of assembly procedure. My cam and bearings were still at stock measurements despite low oil.

And for piston slap, my pistons were perfectly round. My bores had no measurable ridge and no marks whatsoever. Real piston slap would be most evident near the bottom of the cylinder so that is where I checked first in several ls engines. And never have I seen any indication piston slap could be taking place. I have seen many ls engines (4.8 and 5.3 and 6.2) with over 250k miles and near perfect bores. A huge feat for such short piston skirts. Good job GM!




Good write up Brian. I have a couple of comments. I used to work at GM Technical Assistance and I'm quite familiar with these engines.
I had been told the story of cam bearings being line honed, causing the copper to show through, and t sounded like a good story and I believed it, and told others the same story. Then I found out that the copper is showing on the bearings when they are brand new out of the box. Agreed, the copper showing does not mean the bearing s worn. The line hone story does not hold water. The new design bearings are coated, no longer show copper.
Also, they are pretty prone to piston slap cold, particularly the 6.2. Usually putting in new pistons quiets them down.
 
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Brian Wilson

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I appreciate the insight tacky. I work in fleet maintenance and have torn apart so many ls engines. I have never personally seen evidence of what I would call severe piston slap. And as hard as piston slap my be on the bores of the cylinders and the piston skirts, it is nothing compared to the damage it does to the wrist pins in a piston. Especially a soft aluminum piston. I have never seen a piston with a loose fitting wrist pin on a 4.8, 5.3 6.0 or 6.2. I also know that a less dense block like the all aluminum 6.2 will be louder than a cast iron block and make any noise seem louder than its cast counterpart. But so many threads about 'piston slap' have turned out to be other problems. Usually relating to damage done by low oil pressure which gm claims is normal. I believe piston slap has become the Robin Hood type scapegoat for any noise engine related based on the metal expansion of forged aluminum pistons in an aluminum block. Surely the 3 GM shops that heard my diesel like 6.2 didn't honestly belive it was normal piston slap and had nothing to do with my normal 10psi oil pressure or the damage that oil pressure caused to my valve train. And the low oil pressure, I feel is just a flat out lie to keep from covering warranty work or a complete recall covering several years of GM vehicles of almost every model. I understand basic metallurgy and physics. And I understand why GM would do this (if I am correct) to save money. I'm not even mad about the idea. I'm just trying to show a theory based on first hand knowledge and experience and help other people that might have been or might in the future be in my shoes. I love my Denali and the l92 is the best motor I have ever had by far. I wouldn't trade it for anything in the world except maybe a ls7 6 speed stick in a muscle car. (I would definitely trade for that)
 

rook

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Pretty awesome thread. I'd love to one day do the research and get the courage to rebuild my L92. I came across the oil pickup grommet failure, that didn't help my drivetrain - but it'll likely be the failure of my 6L80 that'll push me to a rebuild of it and the engine. Great job on a practical set of ideas when something gives and we got to get into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Brian Wilson

Brian Wilson

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no problem. other than needing the truck, it was a semi-fun job. if I had a second car, it would have been less trouble cost and stress
 

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