The reckoning has arrived - big $$$

[intheburbs]

My 2500 Suburban has been the best vehicle I've ever owned. Completely reliable (except for the computer running me out of gas a few times), very low cost of ownership as the odometer rolled 200k miles.

Had a major issue with her - loss of oil pressure. The result was engine damage, and the oil looking like metal flake paint. I looked at used car prices, 2500 prices, and decided I'm going to keep her long-term.

GM remanufactured engine - 100k mile warranty. Replaced some leaky cooler lines. A few other things. Decided AGAINST any performance mods - cam, forced induction, etc - since whatever I did was still bolting up to a 200k mile transmission. If the transmission goes, then, well, we might do some "improvements."

Next up - new braking system - Powerstop Z36 calipers, rotors and pads, new power steering pump (hydroboost brakes), new master cylinder. Freaking Walmart had the best price on the PowerStop kit - $824. Should look pretty sharp with the red powder-coated calipers peeking out from the wheels.

Closing in on $10k invested.

A few pics to start....More updates coming....Brakes will be done in a few weeks...

My baby


Out with the old - guess the manifold leaks were the cause of the ticking? LoL


In with the new...

 

[Larryjb]

2nd picture.... Didn't know the Escalade was FWD with transverse engine!

My father did an engine swap on an International Traveller. Delivery truck lowered the engine into the engine bay while the truck was in our driveway. Those were simpler days.

Hopeful

 

[intheburbs]

2nd picture.... Didn't know the Escalade was FWD with transverse engine!

My father did an engine swap on an International Traveller. Delivery truck lowered the engine into the engine bay while the truck was in our driveway. Those were simpler days.

Hopeful

The way it was explained to me is that the engine has to be turned 90° in the engine bay before hoisting it out.

 

[Tonyrodz]

My 2500 Suburban has been the best vehicle I've ever owned. Completely reliable (except for the computer running me out of gas a few times), very low cost of ownership as the odometer rolled 200k miles.

Had a major issue with her - loss of oil pressure. The result was engine damage, and the oil looking like metal flake paint. I looked at used car prices, 2500 prices, and decided I'm going to keep her long-term.

GM remanufactured engine - 100k mile warranty. Replaced some leaky cooler lines. A few other things. Decided AGAINST any performance mods - cam, forced induction, etc - since whatever I did was still bolting up to a 200k mile transmission. If the transmission goes, then, well, we might do some "improvements."

Next up - new braking system - Powerstop Z36 calipers, rotors and pads, new power steering pump (hydroboost brakes), new master cylinder. Freaking Walmart had the best price on the PowerStop kit - $824. Should look pretty sharp with the red powder-coated calipers peeking out from the wheels.

Closing in on $10k invested.

A few pics to start....More updates coming....Brakes will be done in a few weeks...

My baby


Out with the old - guess the manifold leaks were the cause of the ticking? LoL


In with the new...

Was the old block salvageable, or did you have to return it as a core?

 

[intheburbs]

Was the old block salvageable, or did you have to return it as a core?

Sent in as a core. Could have rebuilt it, but I liked the 100k mile warranty of the GM re-man. I'm playing the long game now. Difference in price was easily justified by the warranty.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Sent in as a core. Could have rebuilt it, but I liked the 100k mile warranty of the GM re-man. I'm playing the long game now. Difference in price was easily justified by the warranty.

Getting that reman with a warranty is such a good deal, that's likely the route I will go in the future and not dick around with rebuilding headaches. This is a cool build to see even if it's going back stock, not many people mod the 2500s and I think everyone can appreciate going back to stock for realiability.

 

[OR VietVet]

The way it was explained to me is that the engine has to be turned 90° in the engine bay before hoisting it out.

Spinning an engine in the engine bay before lifting out, now that sounds like fun, not! I have done some things over the years to get engines out and in a van bay or the engine bays where they are tucked way back in there, but spinning in the bay to remove is a first for me.

Man, when you remove an engine you need to get all the help you have with it to wear gloves to keep from getting all that filth on the outside of the rig. Second pic again.

That is a very sharp looking rig.

 

[Larryjb]

When we did the International, we removed the front grill so we could move it forwards. I suppose if he was able to spin it 90, that saved a lot of work dismantling the grill.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have done my share of van front grille and radiator and everything else removal for engine replacement. PITA

 

[Larryjb]

My father in law used to have a '60's Bug. He took it in to have a tune-up and the guy removed the engine. My FIL freaked out until the guy explained that it's so fast to take the engine right out and pop the plugs out and in!