Throttle Body Replacement

[Plimbob]

Thanks Guys for that leg work I really appreciate it! I should checked Amazon or Rock, looks like a few bucks to be saved going that route.

Also, I wonder if the pedal position sensor should be replaced as well? Would/Could it be contributing to the P0121 code?

 

[Plimbob]

Update - I replaced the TB with a new Hitachi that I purchased off EBay for $105.00. I also cleaned the MF sensor while I was at it and replaced the air filter.

It fired right up, I let it idle for 2-3 minutes and shut it off, restarted it and let it idle again for 2-3 minutes and then restarted again. The idle speed was about 1,000 each time. I then took it for a drive, it drove much better, no hesitation and was more responsive. NO engine lights on.

At at stop it would idle at about a 1,000, then drop to approx 650 -700. I drove it around normal city driving, jumped on the freeway drove about 65 for about 7-8 miles and got off and drove back through own. Stopped at O'reilly's and when I put it park it shot up to 2,500-3,000, shut it down and had the guy come out and check codes and clear any present (still no engine lights) he check and there were no codes present. Started it back up and it shot up to 3,000.

Drove it around another 10-15 miles in town. Stopped several times and restarted it and it shot up to 2,500 and then climbed to 3,000. Kept driving and at stop lights it would drop to 1,000, then to around 600ish.

When home pull in the garage, put it park and it only rose to about 1,200. I restarted it and it then shot back up to 2,500. I shut it down and haven't driven it anymore today.

I assume this is going to take some time (more miles) - or is there a routine I should be doing to expedite the process?

Thanks
Tim

 

[Tonyrodz]

Update - I replaced the TB with a new Hitachi that I purchased off EBay for $105.00. I also cleaned the MF sensor while I was at it and replaced the air filter.

It fired right up, I let it idle for 2-3 minutes and shut it off, restarted it and let it idle again for 2-3 minutes and then restarted again. The idle speed was about 1,000 each time. I then took it for a drive, it drove much better, no hesitation and was more responsive. NO engine lights on.

At at stop it would idle at about a 1,000, then drop to approx 650 -700. I drove it around normal city driving, jumped on the freeway drove about 65 for about 7-8 miles and got off and drove back through own. Stopped at O'reilly's and when I put it park it shot up to 2,500-3,000, shut it down and had the guy come out and check codes and clear any present (still no engine lights) he check and there were no codes present. Started it back up and it shot up to 3,000.

Drove it around another 10-15 miles in town. Stopped several times and restarted it and it shot up to 2,500 and then climbed to 3,000. Kept driving and at stop lights it would drop to 1,000, then to around 600ish.

When home pull in the garage, put it park and it only rose to about 1,200. I restarted it and it then shot back up to 2,500. I shut it down and haven't driven it anymore today.

I assume this is going to take some time (more miles) - or is there a routine I should be doing to expedite the process?

Thanks
Tim

Had a very similar issue with my express van. Turned out to be my iac. I even got a bad one right out of the box. Even tho your tb is new, maybe the iac is bad.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Update - I replaced the TB with a new Hitachi that I purchased off EBay for $105.00. I also cleaned the MF sensor while I was at it and replaced the air filter.

It fired right up, I let it idle for 2-3 minutes and shut it off, restarted it and let it idle again for 2-3 minutes and then restarted again. The idle speed was about 1,000 each time. I then took it for a drive, it drove much better, no hesitation and was more responsive. NO engine lights on.

At at stop it would idle at about a 1,000, then drop to approx 650 -700. I drove it around normal city driving, jumped on the freeway drove about 65 for about 7-8 miles and got off and drove back through own. Stopped at O'reilly's and when I put it park it shot up to 2,500-3,000, shut it down and had the guy come out and check codes and clear any present (still no engine lights) he check and there were no codes present. Started it back up and it shot up to 3,000.

Drove it around another 10-15 miles in town. Stopped several times and restarted it and it shot up to 2,500 and then climbed to 3,000. Kept driving and at stop lights it would drop to 1,000, then to around 600ish.

When home pull in the garage, put it park and it only rose to about 1,200. I restarted it and it then shot back up to 2,500. I shut it down and haven't driven it anymore today.

I assume this is going to take some time (more miles) - or is there a routine I should be doing to expedite the process?

Thanks
Tim

Did you follow the learn procedure I posted accurately? It's not 2-3 minutes, shut it off....
It's 3 minutes, off for 30 seconds. It doesn't need to be to the millisecond, but you need to be accurate. Sometimes more driving is the only prescription.

 

[Plimbob]

Did you follow the learn procedure I posted accurately? It's not 2-3 minutes, shut it off....
It's 3 minutes, off for 30 seconds. It doesn't need to be to the millisecond, but you need to be accurate. Sometimes more driving is the only prescription.

Nate,

No, not to the letter that is more than likely the issue.... SO I would guess at this point it is down to driving it more?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[Doubeleive]

might want to disconnect the battery for 15 min and try again also, if it wont relearn on it own after a few tries then it may have to be relearned with a tech2

 

[Plimbob]

I drove it around yesterday and it was better but the idle is still erratic.

To do the re-learn, disconnect the battery for the 15 minutes and do the 3 minute idle and shut off for 30 or 60 seconds? Nate mentions 30 seconds in his reply but the document he posted said 60 seconds? Should this be done twice?

Also, I wonder if the engine should be at operating temp to do this, it's about 35 degrees in garage this morning.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I drove it around yesterday and it was better but the idle is still erratic.

To do the re-learn, disconnect the battery for the 15 minutes and do the 3 minute idle and shut off for 30 or 60 seconds? Nate mentions 30 seconds in his reply but the document he posted said 60 seconds? Should this be done twice?

Also, I wonder if the engine should be at operating temp to do this, it's about 35 degrees in garage this morning.

Thanks,
Tim

Follow the bulletin, not my post. Sorry for the bad number, I was just flying off memory. Not sure that the temp matters, but it probably doesn't hurt to warm it up a little first. Then disconnect the battery and do the relearn.

I did a few cycles of 3:00, 0:60. That's the internal that tells it, "hey it's time to learn "

 

[Plimbob]

Follow the bulletin, not my post. Sorry for the bad number, I was just flying off memory. Not sure that the temp matters, but it probably doesn't hurt to warm it up a little first. Then disconnect the battery and do the relearn.

I did a few cycles of 3:00, 0:60. That's the internal that tells it, "hey it's time to learn "

Thanks Nate, I'll get on that in a bit and post the results. You know the old saying haste makes waste, I wasn't exact and now have to do more work to rectify my error.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Thanks Nate, I'll get on that in a bit and post the results. You know the old saying haste makes waste, I wasn't exact and now have to do more work to rectify my error.

Thanks,
Tim

It doesn't have to be exact, by definition, but within a few seconds is good. You're "talking" to the truck with your key like morse code. It's the same idea as turning the ignition on /off 4 times in 4 seconds for tpms learn mode.

I would do it few times. If it doesn't settle down, just keep driving it (being careful if the idle is high enough she wants to drive away on you). If you're getting impatient with it, you could do like Wes said, and go have it set with a Tech 2.