Ticking noise. Please help

[Kodiak Yukon]

2007 yukon 5.3. Ticking on the right side(oil fill neck side). Ticking noise is there and speed up when accelerating. Side high on the motor. Have not taken a stethoscope to it. Need to buy one. The ticking noise is not always as loud as it can be. Sometimes ticks on deceleration. Sounds like it’s in the very front of the motor near the first cylinder. Doesn’t get noticeably louder when removing the oil cap. This has been there for about 6 months I am told(from wife). There is not check engine lights. Since it’s right before Christmas and well 10 degrees I don’t want to just rip the valve cover off just yet without reaching out to you all. Please let me know what your thoughts are.

Jason.

Merry Christmas all.

 

[George B]

First easy check is to make sure all the exhaust manifold bolts are present and not broken.

 

[Kodiak Yukon]

Thank will do.

 

[Kodiak Yukon]

Guess what I found

 

[Kodiak Yukon]

Now how bad is this problem and how soon should I fix it?

 

[Fless]

First easy check is to make sure all the exhaust manifold bolts are present and not broken.

Bingo.

 

[Kodiak Yukon]

Bingo.

First easy check is to make sure all the exhaust manifold bolts are present and not broken.

Well played sir.

 

[George B]

Now how bad is this problem and how soon should I fix it?

There are add on clamps you can buy to install and press the manifold back. I personally wouldn’t use them permanently but many have. I would replace all the bolts with some ARP manifold bolts. Be prepared to need new studs on the outlet too. A welder and a torch are likely to be required for this repair.

https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold-hold-down-clamp/chevrolet/tahoe

ARP 134-1102 Header Bolt Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5YSH70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MS71XWNZSXXA3TCT6ZR3

 

[Walchit]

There are add on clamps you can buy to install and press the manifold back. I personally wouldn’t use them permanently but many have. I would replace all the bolts with some ARP manifold bolts. Be prepared to need new studs on the outlet too. A welder and a torch are likely to be required for this repair.

https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold-hold-down-clamp/chevrolet/tahoe

ARP 134-1102 Header Bolt Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5YSH70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MS71XWNZSXXA3TCT6ZR3

I fought one of those clamps on to the rear driver's side for at least an hour. Dropped the bolts too many times to count, and my fat hands hurt for a couple days afterwards.
I think it had been driven with the leak long enough that the gasket was no good. I guess I will see when I pull this motor.

 

[Walchit]

There are 2 different clamps too. One for passenger front/driver's rear and one for driver's front/passanger rear.