Time for a 0.030 over bore!!

[t_ahan]

Well since i had 80% leak down in about 6 cylinders i pulled the motor out and that's what i found!!! sent the block/heads out to the machine shop to do a .030" over bore and mill the deck to 0 but i have not found a set of pistons i want run yet and i have been thinking about getting a complete stroker kit but i dont want i really dont want to throw away the forged h beam rods cuz i only got like 5k miles out of this build config. ....anyways any build configs or set ups u all may like to see be done plz let me kno and any advice would be greatly appreciated! thank u to all
any1 unfamiliar or curious with what i had, heres it is ...
.... Painted To Match Front Badge, Clear Turn Signal Assemblies, Super Bright White LED DRL, 6000k Hids For The High/Low/Fog Lights With 55w Ballast And Relays For Each Circuit, Escalade Chrome Roof Rack, E-Fan Conversion With Variable Temp And Speed Control, K&N Intake, MSD Coils, MSD 8.5 Wires, Tall Moroso Polished Valve Covers, CompCams Ultra-Gold 1.72 Ratio Rockers, CompCams Hi-Tech Push Rods,CompCams Lifters, Mild 214/240 CompCams CamShaft,LS6 243 Cylinder Heads,Probe SRS Forged Pistons&Forged Eagle H-Beam Rods,FAST LSXRT Intrake manifold,FAST Fuel Rails,Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, BBk 80mm Throttle Body, BBk Headers, MagnaFlow Cats And Cat Back Exhaust, Diablo Sport Programer, PerformaBuilt Level2 Trans with 2500 Stall Tq.Converter, Front And Rear Eibach Sway Bars And Links, GoodRidge Braided Steel Brake Line Kit, Baer 14in Front Cross Drilled And Slotted Rotors Up Front, Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors In The Rear, Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads, 22" SS Replica Rims, 305/45ZR22 Yokohama Prada Spec X, OEM Factory 17's With 265/75R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers For Winter, Black Wood Grain Steering Wheel And Grab Bar, Red And Black Carbon Fiber Painted Engine Covers Signed By Gilbert Arenas To Match The Msd Coils, Red Top Optima Battery, Escalade Painted To Match Rear Smooth Vents,Front 7inch HD digital panel with Touch screen panel with DVD/MP3/MP4/DIVX TV/RDS/ BlUETOOTH/USB/SD CARD/GPS/IPOD/ BUILD IN DVB-T, 2 JL Audio 12W1V2-4 12" Subs 4 Ohm, Alpine V12 Amp, Kole Audio Capacitor, Factory GM DVD Players For The Head Rests With Wireless Remote and Head phones, TC213 USA Car License Frame Rearview Camera with Night Vision, Loyd Custom Ebony Floor Mats With EscaNali Stiched In Them, USSPEEDO Cluster, Escalade Shifter With Chrome And Leather, Escalade Platinum AC Vents With Chrome Inserts, Escalade PUTCO Pedal Trim Complete Putco LED Lighting-All Roof, Doors,Puddle,Tag,Reverse Light Bulbs In Bright White, Smoked Red&Clear Led Tail Lights, Shaved Rear Badges,Smoked Licenes Plate Covers, Smoked Weather Tech Window Deflectors


Read more: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3831208/2003-gmc-yukon-denali/#ixzz2adF9lSM9

 

[t_ahan]

phase 4 build (blown)

 

[t_ahan]

anybody out there?????

i c that people r checking this situation out but nothing being discussed yet i also have to deal with finding out how to better tune this truck other than diablo sport predator and hp tuner....i feel im ganna need to dyno tune but cant find any1 in the are that is willing to tune with the motor/ecu in the truck cuz their awd dynos are mainly for porches,wrx,lancers,etc. not a denali on 305/40/22's that is close to the rollers max weight limit......and if i could get this tuning complication off my chk list i would like to get the nw 102mm tb but then i guess i have to deal with xlink or whatever the harness connector correction is for that....anyways im hoping to hear what u all have to say on this build cuz im hoping to find out what brand pistons to order and what my best hope for a perfect or close to perfect to tune will be and what tb i should do to get rid of my 80mm bbk which is fine with me but im not sure what build spec #'s are going to look like till i get pistons and if head work or the tb is necessary

 

[kschumake83]

i c that people r checking this situation out but nothing being discussed yet i also have to deal with finding out how to better tune this truck other than diablo sport predator and hp tuner....i feel im ganna need to dyno tune but cant find any1 in the are that is willing to tune with the motor/ecu in the truck cuz their awd dynos are mainly for porches,wrx,lancers,etc. not a denali on 305/40/22's that is close to the rollers max weight limit......and if i could get this tuning complication off my chk list i would like to get the nw 102mm tb but then i guess i have to deal with xlink or whatever the harness connector correction is for that....anyways im hoping to hear what u all have to say on this build cuz im hoping to find out what brand pistons to order and what my best hope for a perfect or close to perfect to tune will be and what tb i should do to get rid of my 80mm bbk which is fine with me but im not sure what build spec #'s are going to look like till i get pistons and if head work or the tb is necessary

You might be able to get an email tune like a blackbear auto cal that makes it run pig rich so you don't burn one of those shiny new pistons and email logs back and forth until it is running right. I know this is not the most efficient way of doing things but it may work for you. From what I have read on google is that you can not take out the front shaft on an awd to go on a 2wd dyno unless you have a nv149 transfer case, so that idea probably would not work for you, and even then you take a chance of tearing up the case.

 

[M Hankel]

A little background on the original buile would be a great start. Did you build it for boost, n/a or nitrous? Is the original build a stock bore size? Give us something to work with and maybe we can offer suggestions.

If it was a stock bore size on a 5.3 block then dont even bother with trying to find a .030 over piston. Just go straight to a 3.898 or 3.903 which is a 5.7 bore size. The 5.3 can be bored out to 5.7 specs and this will open up a shitload of off the shelf pistons. Like I mentioned before, dont know anything at all about your previous build but you could even add a 4" stroke for a 383ci with the 3.898 bore.

From the pics of those pistons I would suspect that the bottoms of the bores were not deburred prior to assembly which caused excessive skirt wear at BDC when the piston rocks in the bore. After boring and honing there is usually a sharp edge at the bottom of the bores unless your machine shop deburrs it.

For a tune, you're not gonna find anything close to a "perfect" tune through a handheld tuner like a Diablo, or even a mailorder tune. Your best bet would be to try find someone local that can get you a real dyno tune.

 

[NaomiSays]

Looks awesome! Very nice specs sheet. We work with plenty of custom engines and can gladly help you get the tuning sorted out remotely. Please call or email and we will discuss your specific needs.

 

[t_ahan]

LQ4 built n/a quick build history

70k miles lq4 with stock 4.000" bore when pistons n rods were installed....story goes!!!...i had accumulated over the last 4 years everything for the build and wasnt really ready to put it all together but the transmission went out n i ordered up a performabuilt level 2 with 2500rpm stall tqconv.(based off motor specs i was bout to build minus pistons,rods)and since i dropped the trany/transfr i decided to jus pull the motor and install the top end..once the motor was broke down to a short block i pulled the trigger on rods n pistons. parts showed up when i wasnt at the shop and my boy took the liberty of installing the bottom end with out any eye witnesses to verify his so called blueprinting which didnt require any build sheet or hand notes on scratch paper or any references/books NOTHING@ALL?????!!f**kin guy.but he was my boy(not nemore)!!!So yeh i pretty much knew how he did it! cig.and beer in one hand a drill all cocked sides ways every which way but straight while honing but after inspecting the cross hatch/hone cuts in the cylinders it was time to move forward with the build and went ahead and built the motor in sequence and once installed in the truck checked compression and ran through all the standard systems tests n checks which were all in spec or no issues...the truck ran very strong and consistent up until i started to feel a mis. n i screwed up n over revved then yeh lol i knew the missfire was mechanical n thought i blew the rings or jus lost compression cuz of who did the bottom end...and now here we r!! .....thank u to all!

 

[M Hankel]

Were the rings a file/fit style? Did he even bother checking the end gap or piston to cylinder wall fit?

Sorry about your luck.

.030 over should be fine for a 6.0. If you want to have it sonic checked, some 6.0 blocks have enough thickness in the bores to go pretty large, .065 (6.2l size) or even larger.

Mike