Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[bottomline2000]

Good to see you back @bottomline2000! How's that cluster treating you lol? It's been a damn soap opera for sure. I think it's finally coming to an end. I still have the stock injectors, but I'd like to maybe get a set of flex fuel injectors. Think that'll work? Any recommendations? I'm on a budget also. What are you using? Simple plug and play? I won't need to retune for the bigger injectors?
The last 6.0 went because of cam bearings. Luckily it wasn't fuel related. Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Haha, the cluster has treated me well. Always fun to max out a 120mph speedo lol.. im running 8.1l 44lb injectors. They are direct plug and play, but cost me about $400. They were flow matched so not the cheapest. Be careful as detonation can take out cam bearings not just lack of oil flow. Flex fuel injectors should be sufficient although you may need an adapter harness. The tune should be calibrated based in injectors. I would invest in a solid tuner to make sure all is well. I'm thinking about pulling the heads on mine and having Atomic retune it. I want HP tuners for whoever does it. My autocal is locked to Blackbear, but if you need one lmk if you go his direction. I don't see myself using it.

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[Tonyrodz]

Haha, the cluster has treated me well. Always fun to max out a 120mph speedo lol.. im running 8.1l 44lb injectors. They are direct plug and play, but cost me about $400. They were flow matched so not the cheapest. Be careful as detonation can take out cam bearings not just lack of oil flow. Flex fuel injectors should be sufficient although you may need an adapter harness. The tune should be calibrated based in injectors. I would invest in a solid tuner to make sure all is well. I'm thinking about pulling the heads on mine and having Atomic retune it. I want HP tuners for whoever does it. My autocal is locked to Blackbear, but if you need one lmk if you go his direction. I don't see myself using it.

Sent from my SM-T387AA using Tapatalk

Thx for the offer. I actually bought an Autocal off the classifieds--got it, put it somewhere--now I can't find it ! Typical...I thought FF injectors would be a direct fit, that's why I mentioned them. The tuner had said something about the injectors being at 90 something percent duty cycle, but were sufficient enough for my mods. Tuner was a douche tho.
I def didn't know detonation could take out cam bearings. Gotta start using at least 89 octane now. If this motor goes I'll burn this bisch!!

 

[Sam Harris]

Thx for the offer. I actually bought an Autocal off the classifieds--got it, put it somewhere--now I can't find it ! Typical...I thought FF injectors would be a direct fit, that's why I mentioned them. The tuner had said something about the injectors being at 90 something percent duty cycle, but were sufficient enough for my mods. Tuner was a douche tho.
I def didn't know detonation could take out cam bearings. Gotta start using at least 89 octane now. If this motor goes I'll burn this bisch!!

Damn man. If my injectors were hitting anything in the 90% duty cycle range, I think I’d need to upgrade them. Your tuner does sound like a douche.

 

[Sam Harris]

Haha, the cluster has treated me well. Always fun to max out a 120mph speedo lol.. im running 8.1l 44lb injectors. They are direct plug and play, but cost me about $400. They were flow matched so not the cheapest. Be careful as detonation can take out cam bearings not just lack of oil flow. Flex fuel injectors should be sufficient although you may need an adapter harness. The tune should be calibrated based in injectors. I would invest in a solid tuner to make sure all is well. I'm thinking about pulling the heads on mine and having Atomic retune it. I want HP tuners for whoever does it. My autocal is locked to Blackbear, but if you need one lmk if you go his direction. I don't see myself using it.

Sent from my SM-T387AA using Tapatalk

Do you know what the FF injectors size is? As compared with the 8.1L @ 44lb? What about stock 6.0? Any difference between LQ4 and LQ9?

Sorry for the hijack @Tony. [emoji16]

 

[Bear77]

I think if you change injectors that you’ll need to get a retune


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[Sam Harris]

I think if you change injectors that you’ll need to get a retune


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I think if they were around 90% duty cycle before, he should upgrade! [emoji16][emoji106]

 

[Scottydoggs]

cant say iver heard of KR causing cam bearing to fail. chip and kill your pistons, yes.

injector up grade needs to be adjusted in the tune for sure.

my ss was on stock injectors with a large blower cam, hitting like 85%, the procharger came with 60lb injectors iirc. but up graded none the less.

so if your not 90% or higher you can let them slide.

good injectors will cost you way more then your willing to spend. 400 is cheap really. ive seen em up to 800 and a grand.

that new engine you need to find out if the injectors are the same, or if he's, the mechanic ill use that term loosely is re using your old ones. not knowing how complete this new engine is.

 

[Dantheman1540]

90% DC is okay for an NA motor IMO My Tahoe is close to that and I'm not concerned. I would always recommend the higher octane if available but like I said before it will revert to the Low octane fuel table and pulling timing if it senses any knock. Unless the cockgobbler that tuned your truck just copied and pasted the high octane table over the low octane making them the same then it could be a problem.

I have heard knock will hurt cam bearings but back like I said before it should revert to the low table and pull spark if it senses knock. It will also add fuel if it's knocking due to a lean condition which will be identified by the O2 sensors and stored by the Long term fuel trims (LTFT) which then get remembered until you disconnect the battery for a long time.

Basically what I'm trying to say is I think it will be fine, but it never hurts to have someone look at the tune. If you find the EFI auto cal even without having to pay or use a credit I think you could data log and email it to someone to look over and let you know if something looks dangerous. Then decide if it's worth it to get a return.

 

[Tonyrodz]

90% DC is okay for an NA motor IMO My Tahoe is close to that and I'm not concerned. I would always recommend the higher octane if available but like I said before it will revert to the Low octane fuel table and pulling timing if it senses any knock. Unless the cockgobbler that tuned your truck just copied and pasted the high octane table over the low octane making them the same then it could be a problem.

I have heard knock will hurt cam bearings but back like I said before it should revert to the low table and pull spark if it senses knock. It will also add fuel if it's knocking due to a lean condition which will be identified by the O2 sensors and stored by the Long term fuel trims (LTFT) which then get remembered until you disconnect the battery for a long time.

Basically what I'm trying to say is I think it will be fine, but it never hurts to have someone look at the tune. If you find the EFI auto cal even without having to pay or use a credit I think you could data log and email it to someone to look over and let you know if something looks dangerous. Then decide if it's worth it to get a return.

Ahhhhh.....now I got you!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Hopefully that doesn't sound like total rambling and maybe someone smarter will fact check me. I'm definitely new to the tooning thing but I quit reading war books before bed and have been reading ECUs for dummies